Engine
Won't fire, won't even turn? Not running smooth? Cutting out? Ask here!
6,144 topics in this forum
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Just adjusted tappets new idle jets and balanced the carbs again . Took my boy out after school and his grin was bigger than mine. car is running very well and am well happy. https://youtube.com/shorts/SE9-2-56Sag
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I think my fuel pressure regulator has died so I've bought a new, remote adjustable one but I need an adaptor to connect it to the fuel rail. I've ordered one of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuel-Rail-Adapter-Car-Fuel-Rail-Pressure-Regulator-Adapter-With-Fittings-For-/133559874509?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 ... but it's going to take 3-4 weeks to arrive (maybe longer if they don't unblock the Suez canal) - anyone know where I can get one from quicker?
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Doing major work to my house so car has been left for awhile. New F8 55 idle jets came through the post on Thursday. Had time today to install them and balance the carbs today. Boy oh boy she is running well from standing still throughout the acceleration range. Loads of power and lots of torque. Big thank you to Daniel Clark and Dave Andrews.
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I’ve been clearing out the garage and have an unleaded carb head, stamped with a P, in good condition with std cam ( I believe). The valves all look good albeit a bit dirty. It would obviously need a strip down to be sure. Advertised here first before it goes on on EBay or FB marketplace. Looking for £60 and would prefer collection only due to its size and weight. Location is OX18, Oxfordshire
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On my recent trip where I was driving long hours in high temperatures, I did have a few hot-start problems - not overheating, just starting up after a 10 minute break, for example. What I was wondering is how modern cars manage this? They have much more enclosed engine bays, with under trays, plastic engine covers, sound deadening (which must keep heat in, if anything), no heat wrap on the exhausts etc yet my tin-top has never had this problem, so how do they do it? It can't be about airflow because there isn't any when the car is not moving...
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Hi This is mainly for those with a Super spec but all input welcome. Just finished fitting my new exhaust and decided to look at the ECU readings (Rover Mems ECU) and car starts & runs fine but when I look at the errors its showing a Lambda signal error after a few minutes. I have tried the new one I bought and the original from old exhaust but no change , so I checked wiring back to ecu and all meters fine, next step was to check Lambda itself so with help of Youtube found how to test and when not running it sits at a few mV and when I start it jumps to around 40mV and drops when engine stops so the sensor is reading something Could a leak in one of my…
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Evening everyone.....I’m hoping someone can help! When I got my car it came with 2 engines (with faults) both zetecs, both look the same externally (both silver tops) The idea was to make a good engine out of the pair...however we have had the heads off and one has 76mm bores one 80mm Is there an easy way to tell what I have, 1.6, 1.8, 2.0? What bits might be interchangeable etc? ive tried Googling and it doesn’t appear to be that straight forward! Thanks
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Hi all, I plan to install an oil breather t-piece so that I can connect an oil expansion tank, but I am struggling to remove the existing unit. From what I have read it should just pull out but I am not sure as it doesn't seem to want to move. Can anyone help with this, pic below? Thanks, Lew
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Hey Guys, After the car being sat for a while over the chilly spell I got her out and fired her up. she was very lumpy to start up but got her going and all good. I took her for a drive down the road and she seemed a bit more spritely than usual, I say a bit, a lot.... I got home, parked up and tried to fire her up again, was missing and all sorts but did finally start up... Something not right on start up yet more spritely when driving along... Interesting I thought... Checked Timing and Cam belt. The belt had slipped a tooth from what I can make of it. New belt and tensioner later and she fires up smoothly but is back to her 'usual' power. Not sluggish bu…
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My cooling system has raised it's ugly head again. I was driving along quite happily when the temperature suddenly jumped to 110°C and stayed there. Oddly my fan (the 95°C, thermostatic switch is in the top hose) did not come on until about 10 minutes later. My first thought was a jammed thermostat, but having removed it the symptoms were still the same, a quicker than normal warmup finishing up well above 100°C. Next I checked the coolant level and that was normal, although a small amount had come out of the pressure cap and into the overflow bottle. The fact the 95°C fan does not trigger until 10 minutes after the engine had got to over 100°C seems to show t…
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I have a Spartan2 lambda sensor fitted but it seems to have died - it's returning a continual 5v no matter how long the engine runs for, so the poor ECU isn't able to adjust the map and the engine is a bit lumpy. I've just re-read the instructions and noticed it says the sensor life is 100-500 hours 🤪. Some rough calculations suggest I'm near that top-end. Is this a known thing, that lambda sensors have such a short life? My 155k mile family car has never needed a new lambda sensor...? Or does anyone know if there's something I can do to kick it back to life? (I will contact the maker tomorrow but I think they might be in the US).
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Gents, I’m looking for some help changing the valve stem oil seals on a pinto engine. I’m an amateur builder so not really that confident stripping it down and making a hash of it. So if there is anyone in the north east area who can help me out I would be very grateful. Obviously will pay in cash and supply tea, coffee biscuits and the odd beer or three!!! Obviously looking at doing this when the government lifts restrictions. Thanks in advance!👍
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Finally got my car back on the road...... I could not setup the twin Weber’s I had so bought brand new Weber’s and got her running. The issue was I do not understand or had enough knowledge to get them set up to idle properly. if anyone wants to buy my old Weber’s please contact me. See pictures below. bring on end of lockdown and hopefully get to some events and meet people again. I would like to thank everyone again for all there help and support. https://youtu.be/aIfIP-qQ50I
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I have a Weber auto choke 30/34 dfth carb, what air filter should I use? Are there any good universal fit ones?? Thanks! 👍🏻
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Still having issues but think we are making headway. The eBay seller said the were 151’s and a receipt in the Webcon for 2 151 Weber dcoe. Someone had ground off the serial and type number???? Speaking to Eurocarb and sending them pictures and videos they said they were not 151’s. there were no mixture screws when they arrive and I purchase 4 new 151 mixture screws. These are a different to the older mixture screw. I have order the older type and they should be here tomorrow. hopefully will have good news. This has been a long road and felt like giving up but had to keep trying.
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Got my newly rebuilt pinto with twin Weber dcoe 40’s running today and it now idles... I want to thank everyone that has helped and advised it’s been a long road and I almost gave up. I bought accuspark coil leads and plugs these were very poor quality and purchased Champion spark plugs Bosh coil and Burton power leads. The floats were not set right and I did not know about the 1.2mm gap on the spacers when tightening the carbs to the manifold. new jets arriving tomorrow and hopefully get to drive it soon.
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Is it possible for an amateur mechanic to change the valve guides on a 2L Pinto that has not been modified to run on unleaded? If so what is the procedure? I don't mind buying a couple of special tools. Cheers. Mick.
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It’s a new year, new lockdown and some spare Christmas cash. I was looking for some sound advice on what next to do under the hood, of the hood! I have a 2 litre pinto, dgav, fairly new coil and dizzy but I’m after some more power. move read the burton guides and the usual tricks are a new cam, new fancy carb, stage 2 head etc. by the time I’ve done all that, I’m wondering would it have been better to just put in a newer zetec. I quite like my old pinto for simplicity etc. I was wondering what experiences or recommendations people might have. engine swap to something else, or incremental parts replacement.
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I am at my almost at the stage to ripped off my weber DCOE 40'sand sell them and go to bike carbs.... I have a 2.0 pinto slightly bored out fast road cam and ported head. 32mm Choke F16 Emulsion tubes 145 Main jet 180 Air corrector 45F9 idle jet Malpasi fuel regulator set at 3.5 psi I had a old school mechanic look at it yesterday and he dialled in the cam shaft. He got it running better than I could but it still will not tick over unless at 2,500rmp The idle mixture adjustment has little affect. If we cover part of the air inlets the revs increases Dose this mean my main jets are too small?
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I know This question has been asked a number of times but what is best Weber’s or bike carbs or even throttle bodies????? I have been struggling to set up my twin Weber dcoe 40’s and I am at the point of giving up and maybe go to bike carbs instead? any advise for the best route would be appreciated. Tony
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Evening all, I have a 3a Has anyone any pictures of how their radiator is mounted. The new rad has a couple of lugs on the bottom, so that side of thing is relatively easy. However I’m not sure how to mount the top as there is no obvious mounting point Thanks
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Having issues with my newly rebuilt pinto. I have had the engine running and now it will not start or even try to fire. I have a spark on all spark plugs. The plugs are wet and smell of petrol. I have checked the timing. Yes f I use easy start it dose try to fire? any ideas.
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Image circled, just wondering what this is for??? It's underneath and just to the left of the oil pressure sender.
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I recently acquired a Pinto powered Luego. I'm having a lot of problems with getting the engine to run smoothly!!! Current setup is twin DHLA 40, Newman fast road cam. I have replaced all ignition components checked ignition timing, cam timing and valve clearances. The car runs very erratically, constantly backfiring and spitting flames from the carb. it's as if its running on 3 cylinders and struggles to return to idle when revved? I have done a compression test and got 3 cylinders reading 190 and No3 cylinder 160 and 190 when I squirt a little oil in the cylinder. It's probably worth mentioning that the car has stood for 6 years and not rea…
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Hi chaps. Just throwing this out there for ideas. my Bentley engine does not get hot. It gets warm but not hot. so done the usual new stat (yes original equipment ) even run it without the viscous fan until the electric ones cut in still the car only gets warm - yes I know logic says if the main electric ones cut in and out then the engine (coolant) MUST be up to temp but you can still hold any hose and it’s only Luke warm. Yes the electric fan switch might be kicking in to soon -they NEVER run with viscous connected (there there for the condenser-with a back up facility for engine temp) but I just can’t get the engine up to running temp. so an…
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