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My Build!


Guest ashleybanks

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Guest ashleybanks

I've just put some pics on a web site www.ashleybanks.co.uk of my build if you're intrested and have time to comment please feel free not quite sure on what I will do next considering bolting the engine in so i can start fitting things around it.

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Looks like you're having fun :D Get the engine in and keep going. Have a good look at other peoples build diary's, you don't have to follow anyone else's plans but it'll give you a good idea of what comes next.

 

I presume it's a stainless steel chassis

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Guest timswait

Looks nice, but are the track rod ends upside down in the uprights, or did you just put them in like that as a temporary measure so they'd come out easier? Getting the engine in has to be the next step. Also never too early to start thinking about fuel/brake/ electric lines routing, I left fitting these til last on my car and then had a nightmare getting them round body panels and everything. :)

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Guest ashleybanks

Guy,

Yep stainless steel chasis.

 

timswait,

 

erm, yes that'll be why erm, they are in the the wrong way round!

I was thinking about laying brake pipe but wasn't quite sure on the presentaion point in the engine bay.

Is it normal that all bolts supplied by Robin Hood are next to useless?

I've had to buy all new bolts so far havn't used 1 supplied.

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Guest TerryBarry

Looks to be coming on fine.

However the upper wishbone ball joints don't appear to be screwed into the wishbone very far and the lock nuts are missing. - I wouldn't worry too much as it will all have to come apart again to fit the front in-fill panels

Is that a medieval target on the floor ?

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Guest ashleybanks

I had a nightmare with the company I used to powder coat all my stuff that didn't cover anything I had to borrow a tap of mat_d_rat to clear out the thread for the upper wishbone ball joint. The rubber seal on the lower wishbone was burnt to singe and I had to get replacements and yes they painted the whole disc. (Muppets) Do you think they need replacing?

 

As for locking nuts I was not supplied any do I need them?

 

Guess you could use it for target practice but instead I must admit that it was a rug I had in my last house. I liked it back then!

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Well done for spotting the track rod ends Tim :D

 

yes you should use lock nuts where ever possible, the vibration in the car will shake anything else loose (although I think I missed a few off :wub: )

 

The SVA bloke will be looking for them as well. Make sure you've got a couple of threads showing passed the top of the nut as well.

 

In my experience of getting people to do things for you, if you ask them to powder coat or sand blast something then that's exactly what they'll do :lol: any covering or blocking you'll have to do yourself.

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Guest timswait
Do you think they need replacing?

Yes!

Unless you have a lathe you can skim the powder coating off with I really can't see any way you'll remove it and leave the disc in good shape, it really sticks pretty well.

Is it normal that all bolts supplied by Robin Hood are next to useless?

Yes again! Particulary the lack of nylocs that come with the kit. Any nut remotely connected to brakes, suspension or steering must have a retaining device for SVA, personally I'd just use nylocs everywhere, they'll only shake loose if you don't.

And yes, you do need a locknut on the top wishbone ball joint, I know it can't unscrew, but it can move without one.

Finally the bottom ball joint has been known to come unscrewed, and the nut that that fits to it (despite being a nyloc) can come loose, so most people pin or lock wire these, check out Bill & Joey's website for more detail.

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to be honest, even if you can remove the coating from the surface of the disc, you'll struggle to get the coating off from inside the ventilations, which at best will stink, at worst is a fire risk.

 

Unless anyone knows if powder coating is particlarly soluble in a solvent?

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Guest ashleybanks

looks like a shopping trip on the old interweb then try and find a couple of discs.

I've also been buying bolts that when the nut washer and spring washer are on are left flush with no thread showing through. So this is not a good option will the SVA bloke throw his toys out the pram for this?

are nylock nuts preferable to spring washers?

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are nylock nuts preferable to spring washers?

Good question.

 

Nylocks have the advantage of convenience, but you're only supposed to use them once otherwise they don't lock as well.

 

Obviously you can use a spring washer as many times as you like (within reason) but they are fiddly to fit in confined spaces, and take up a thread or two of bolt.

 

I used all nylocks on mine, and have been quite happy with the build. I used mostly RH-supplied fasteners, except where they were non galvanised and would be getting wet (like the front wishbone bolts).

 

Also, pay attention to the tensile strength of bolts used for anything structural. Use 8.8 as a minimum.

 

I can't see your site from work but I'll have a dekkers when I get home.

 

Cheers

 

JonB

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