Engine And Gearbox Upgrade!

[Guest wishyy1]

Hi, I am wanting to upgrade my 1.6 pinto in my series 3, i want to get a 2.0l and a five speed gearbox. Does any one have information on which is the best engine and the changes needed eg. propshaft, engine mounts, wiring, carb. As well as this the best places to get the parts from! cheers

[Guest salty_monk]

There's plenty of info on this if you do a search on here.

 

You may want to think about sticking with the 4 speed box if it's a good'un. People who have changed have said afterwards that the extra expense & hassle is not worth it.

 

To fit the 5 speed box you'll need to alter your tunnel top, make new gearbox mounts & buy a new propshaft which will cost you a couple of hundred quid +.

 

The 2.0l is a straight swap for the 1.6, you'll have to use a special clutch I believe but Big Jim & one of the other guys (Red7 maybe?) who did this upgrade recently will be able to better advise...

 

Oh - & join the club, best 15 quid upgrade there is

 

Dan

[Snapperpaul]

Richard says in the build videos for the series 3 ( yes i have watched them) that he prefers the 4 speed box. Problem with the 5 speed is that first gear is incredebly low and with the aerodynamics of the Robin Hood with the 2.0L engine then you have a choice of long diff and unatainable top speed or shorter diff and useless first.

 

I am assuming you have 3.6 Sierra diff, 4 speed type 9 and wheels around 14 inch.

 

I have a very usefull excell spread sheet that you can play with that will calculate diff ratio, gearbox ratio, wheel size and speed in gear at revs.

 

That will make up your mind and as Salty says the 5 speed needs the tunnle floor cut possibly a different prop and may need the engine moving, which if you have the anti roll bar fitted means redrilling the holes for that.

 

2.0L with 2.0L clutch should go straight in.

 

link to download for gearing calculator

[Guest docter fox]

not meaning to take over the thread, but are the cogs from the different boxes interchangable? guessing not but I was playing about a with box a couple of weeks ago and managed to get it back together

[Snapperpaul]

4 speed and 5 speed are very different, i'm not even sure the 5 speed type 9 for 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder are interchangeable, certainly the input shafts are different and i did hear that there is a layshaft and non layshaft type.

There is a BGH type 9 on the Locost builders site for 500 quid and the Cosworth T5 goes for 250+ on ebay and that has ideal ratios.

Its the low first on the 5 speed type 9 ( same ratios in the MT75 ) that are causing me the problems especially when you have a hotter cam, power band gets shorter and moves up the rev band.

 

Stick with the 4 speed and see how the extra power and torque feels, the 5 speed box will be disapointing in first, all 4th gears are 1:1 so you gain a cruising 5th but loose the usable 1st. IMHO

[Andy Spencer]

I wrote an article on this for the last mag.....careful as the 2 litre clutch may not fit input shaft on 4 spd box. Either fit 2 litre clutch and a special spinner plate (have details if you want), or use 1.6 flywheel and clutch if you are not going to tune it a lot (bit smaller but should be OK in a Hood) - I've got a 1.6 Borg & Beck that's only done 4k if you ever want it!!)

PM me if you want more details. I did this upgrade on my old car, stuck with the 4 speed which was fine.

 

Andy

[Snapperpaul]

Got so bogged down in the gearbox problem i did not comment on the engine, given the choice i would look for an injection engine and ditch the injection, better rods, lead free head and better inlet flow as standard ( smooths out the sharp turn at the inlet valve) this can be good for 10bhp over the standard head. The rods will go to 7,200 all day. Plus it's a good base for further upgrades.

[Guest Kim]

Interesting topic 2 weeks to late as I have just made the mistake of trying fit 2.0l to 4 speeed box with wrong clutch ( won.t fit splines). I was thinking of changing to 5 speed that I have got but bell housing is broke so got another box and the bell housings are not inter changable slightly different.

 

So just goes to show what you think might fit Mr Ford decided to alter only very slightly the word bugger comes to mind and a tour of the local scrappy for the right bell housing.

 

Kim

[Guest salty_monk]

Sorry Andy, it was you who made the change recently, mind you I think Red 7 may have done it too...

 

Kim, if you'd have searched or asked Andy's upgrade was much longer than too weeks ago so info was available. Hope you've sorted it now.

[Guest wishyy1]

thanks for the info so far!!! i will stay with 4 speed gearbox. Now please could you advise me on the 2.0L engine, (exhaust on driverside) are there recomendations of engine type and carb configerations

 

if i were to fit the injection engine and convert it to a carb what setup would i need?

 

Thanks for the help!

[Guest turbo]

1.8 or 2.0l zetec are now favourite,plentifull and cheap(blacktop is best)

exhaust can be bent under engine to come out drivers side or just fit a cooling vent.

as for fuel keep with ford injection or even better fit motorcycle carbs.

[Guest turbo]

this was at newark.

first class.

[Guest wishyy1]

the problem is i wanted to do a straight swap really as i want to get the car on the road, so i was going to replace it with a 2.0l pinto but was not sure if there is a specific model or year which is best!

[Guest turbo]

nope just a 2l pinto

205 block is better but not that important

[Guest salty_monk]

Try to get one from an injection engine as stated above. That way you get the stronger 205 block, better flowing head, unleaded valve seats etc.

 

If you want to get rid of the injection, it's simple. Get a dizzy setup like the one shown on http://nw.rhocar.org & stick a 38 DGAS or twin 40 Webber or Dellorto's on it. The 32/36 is not a bad carb either. You could even go bike carbs.

 

Zetec will be more full effiecient & more power as standard but more expensive to buy & to install, you'll need a baffled tank, pumps, injection, etc

 

Dan