Pinto Ignition Timing

[Guest Mike G]

Hi Guys

I have never had the need to check whether the ignition timing on my Pinto was spot-on, as the engine runs a treat. However, with the popping and gurgling from the silencer on the over-run, advice from some club members is to check whether the ignition is retarded, as well as re-pack the silencer etc etc. My only daily gripe is that the engine runs out of steam at 70mph+, especially up motorway gradients. Aerodynamics of a brick doesn't help that, coupled with 19 year old technology!

 

The engine is a 1600cc Pinto ex D-reg Sierra, with original Weber twin-choke carb, in an Exmo body. Everything is in reconned condition, and engine uses hardly any oil.

 

My Haynes manual is not too helpful, offering a few ideas:- that I could have one of two types of crankshaft pulley with different marks scribed. Also, I should disconnect the vacuum pipe and plug it. I thought clamping the pipe might be better. I didn't want to disturb the present setting until I had a practical procedure to follow. Couldn't find anything in the club archives, so has anyone got any guidance notes to offer? I have an old-style neon timing light, so would the first step be to get a modern replacement?

 

Cheers

Mike G

[Andy Spencer]

My old S7 was a bit gutless after 70mph with the 1.6 in, although the rings were shot at the time and I only had a 4 speeder.

Basically you need to mark the crank pulley at the relevant timing mark (check the Haynes manual for this) - I painted it white and also the indicator on the block to make it easier to see under the timing light.

Connect the timing light onto / in series with number one lead.

Remove vac advance hose and plug at end.

Start engine.

Shine light towards markers and compare alignment between pulley and fixed timing marks.

If they are out, stop engine, loosen dizzy clamping bolt a bit, restart and (carefully) rotate dizzy until they do.

 

HTH

Andy

[Guest Mike G]

Thanks Andy

It was good that your ideas matched those I have gained from past motors. Thanks for the notes. As this is my first ever Ford engine, I just wanted to make sure that there wasn't some quirky arrangement that would catch me out.

 

The bit that Haynes doesn't make crystal clear is the actual line scribed on the pulley to use with the timing light. There is a selection of lines on mine, which might take some figuring out. First step I think will be to polish all the crap of the pulley, suss out the correct line, and use Tippex on it.

 

Cheers

Mike G

[Andy Spencer]

First step I think will be to polish all the crap of the pulley, suss out the correct line, and use Tippex on it

Absolutely right.

You may find, with modern unleaded fuels, that you need an octane booster or to retard it a bit more than the Haynes spec to stop it pinking.

Its surprising what a bit of ignition set up can do to the performance and running characteristics.

 

Don't worry too much about the exhaust popping, mine did it all the time I had it. Quite liked it actually!!

 

Andy

[Guest hypermick]

Dont forget to check for leaks around the manifolds at the head too.

Particularly in view of the recent problems Enforcer had.

 

Mick

[Big Jim]

Looking at the pully, as you turn the engine over in direction of rotation, the last THICK line will be TDC, now the lines in front of it are usually marked each 2º

check the Haynes manual, section 5/17

If you're just setting static idle timing, remove the vac pipe (like you've said) and set it on idle with the idle speed below 900rpm. Once set and clamped, still without the vac pipe attached, blip the revs up to around 2K, and watch the timing light, the timing should advance with the increase of revs, this shows that the weights inside the dizzy are working OK.