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Sliding Pillar


Guest gdc

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hi recently sva passed 2b pillar

waiting for regestration lots of sliding pillar 2b s have been changed to wish bone

 

how do the pillar types handle?

are there distinct advantages to wish bone instalation?

or do you learn to drive the pillar type from experiance i used to race hot rods and the adjustability of the shocks was an advantage, however is this nessary

seems to me if i corner hard one of the front wheels is going to become airbourns as there is no means for the wheel to drop below the bottom mounting, my fear is going straight on at corners or trying to steer with the right foot not a good plan with an 1800 pinto.

 

regards graham

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mine is sliding pillar

been on 3 trackdays with the club, and it isnt that bad

 

though i have tried hard, i am yet to see air under any of the front wheels :ph34r:

to be honest, the sliding pillar suspension does not actually move that much

 

dave

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Guest salty_monk

You first get understeer, then it switches to oversteer.

 

Biggest problem for me was the suspension taking lumps out of the inside of the wheels.

 

I now have a wishbone, it's far superior, the suspension actually works rather than banging & crashing.....

 

One guy in Australia has fitted big wheel spacers (40mm odd) Rally design do them I think. This moves the wheel out of the way of the bottom of the suspension & would probably give you more suspension movement. I would have loved to try it but I sold my pillar model before that tip came through.

 

It is possible to do a conversion, a few people have converted to wishbones although a commercial kit is not available these days.

 

You'll still have fun with the pillars, well setup they are not that bad but it's easy to find there limit & after about 4k my springs went a bit soft & compounded the problem.... then again perhaps I just drove it too hard, it did do a couple of trackdays & went most places flat out....

 

By the way, I had 14" wheels. Bigger ones would give more clearance but I'm sure they could still be made to touch.

 

Dan :)

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Guest salty_monk

It stripped all mine off at Barkston Heath.... maybe you just don't drive it hard enough :p :lol:

 

15" would give more clearance for defo...

 

This is the guilty bit.... that's the good side :D

 

Pics006.jpg

 

 

 

Dan :)

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have also got maybe 20mm of wheel spacer, as the ford 15" lattice wheels i have, have worse offset that the 13's of the donor

 

tried hard enough to scare myself, and thats close enough :p

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Guest mark kingston

mine is sliding pillar without any wheel spacers and has never given any problems and has been on the road for 5 years now. mind i do not have a big nutty thing like that shown in the photo that sticks down and suspect that was probably the reason the wheel hit it.

i just have a nylock m12 nut on the bottom of mine which i would guess is probably less than half the thickness than that shown in the photo.

i also do have an extra bump stop fitted in the top end which also probable helps limit the movement.

it is possible to set up the sliding pillar system right and it will then work ok as both dave and i have proved.

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Guest salty_monk

Mine worked fine... it had the extra bump stop & that "nutty thing" was no taller than an M12 nylock, it just looks big in the pic.

 

You obviously didn't drive yours hard enough... :p :D

 

I liked my pillock model, but if I still had it I'd upgrade to double wishbone, far superior, I even proved it recently on track at Llandow (done that track with both models) exit speeds on the corners etc were much higher. Steering rack on the pillocks was more suited to the track though :D

 

Dan :)

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hi dan

did you upgrade the pillock or change the car ?

i am trying to find an upgrade that dosnt need a nasa degree to fit.

just sva d and the long winter is comming ,

so time is not a prob

regards graham

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Hmm, this debate comes up every now and agian...I think I started the last one...

 

I finaly came to the conclusion that the wishbones would look better, handle better and would just be a better idea....so out came the grinder with a cutting disk and those silly bits of sticky outy chassis have all fallen off....

 

Have all the box section lined up with some stainless wire in the welder...all i need to do is several douzen hours of hacksawing and filling to get all the bits perfectly square...

 

Should work out ok...just took me ages to get up the courage to destroy my sliding pillar chassis...

 

Hoping to get the bulk of the work done this comming weekend if I can remeber where I put my damn bushing set :-s..

 

Dunc

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Guest salty_monk

Hi Graham,

 

I sold it when I went to America & then bought another one when dad bought a new house & we had somewhere to keep it whilst I'm away.....

 

Bill is in process of upgrading two cars, Tony Tank has done his & a few people have the RS Jigtec kit fitted, (Bob Tucker being one).

 

I also did some research & the RH bones are nothing special material wise, just 1.5mm mild steel.

 

I think Bill may be persuaded to do some kits eventually, understandably he wants to road test their design first.

 

I probably have some info on email somewhere from my research, let me know if you want it.

 

If you can weld (or know a man that can) & you have time, I wouldn't say the modification is all that difficult. (should have said due to all the info available from those like Tony who've done it.... :) )

 

If you do it yourself it is likely to cost around £400 - £450 incl the shocks etc.

 

Dan :)

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thanks for the info dan

once i have hopefully sorted the lightweight out i may well look at changing over to wishbones.

but i have my hands full at the moment.

best regards graham

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Guest chris.childs

My 2B did (currently recieving a new engine) well over 10,000 miles in two years on sliding pillars & its no too bad, however it is quite high maintainence and there are a number of points to watch out for, all of which are prompting me into converting to wishbones due to the millage the car covers:-

 

-Do keep an eye on the lower bump stop (assuming you have the 'top hat' setup locating the shaft at the base) as this has a habit of discintergrating eventually and prevent the suspension 'bumping & crashing'.

 

-Also you may need to use two bumpstops inside the spring to prevent the nut crashing into the inside of the wheel rim (which also restricts suspension travel).

 

-One other point to watch out for is if the fit of the phospur bronze bushed tube to the shaft is too loose grease can escape and end up on the brake disks/pads, although fortunatly this has never caused me a braking issue, it is sensible to keep a regular check for escaping grease and clean this up reguarly before it gets onto the disks/pads.

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Guest salty_monk
-Do keep an eye on the lower bump stop (assuming you have the 'top hat' setup locating the shaft at the base) as this has a habit of discintergrating eventually and prevent the suspension 'bumping & crashing'.

 

-Also you may need to use two bumpstops inside the spring to prevent the nut crashing into the inside of the wheel rim (which also restricts suspension travel).

 

Mine was in good shape, there just isn't much suspension movement in a sliding pillar, that's more what I meant about it "bumping & crashing". When you drive a wishbone model you'll be surprised how much more the suspension moves & how smooth it is. Having swapped from one to the other in a fairly short space of time, you wouldn't get me to go back.... ask anyone else who's converted....

 

Two bumpstops didn't work for me... again I would say it depends how you drive it, my rims were fine until my first track day....

 

Dan :)

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