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Guest Tim Norman

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Guest Tim Norman

Before I commit to plumbing it in permanently can any tell me if this will work. There is no pressure relief cap on it, the header tank is from a Volvo. There is an air bleed in the top of the top hose and the hose from the top of the inlet manifold bleeds back into the header tank.

post-13-1161020057_thumb.jpg

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Guest shane1664

Does the waterpump have two outlets? If so im not sure if it would work, as you will be creating a surge between the upper outlet and the inlet manifold. They would both be trying to flow against one another you see, so this could turn into a hotspot. I realise that the water would flow up to the radiator top hose, but then you are losing efficany as less of the water is getting round the actual engine.

 

blocking off the top waterpump outlet, or converging it with the bottom one, would increase the water flow through the block and keep it in one, steady direction, so all of the water is carrying some heat away from the engine, at a faster rate.

 

Other than that i can see no problems:)

its only my opinion and im sure someone will correct me if im wrong :p

 

Hope it helps,

Shane

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hi tim

looks the same principal as my lightweight except i have a pressure relief on the header tank been run static for in excess of half an hour with no probs.

i am a plumber but would bow to any more experiansce

 

regards graham

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Guest salty_monk

Tim,

 

Looks kind of like what I have (and Petemate had) but my Volvo header tank is T'd into the hose from bottom of water pump to Radiator bottom connection. The "overflow" i.e. the top connection on the header tank is connected to the overflow on the coolman rad with a blank cap (no spring so not pressurised just lets water flow, pressure is on the header tank cap).

 

I was going to fit a Renault ally rad but no top connection, apparently these are already T'd into the rubber on the top hose.

 

I believe my setup is exactly what you would find in a Sierra. Works a treat.

 

Pics will give general idea though I've stuck a coolman in place of plastic topped rad since I took them. Still connectoed the same though.

 

RobinHood2B-EngineBay.jpg

 

Image006.jpg

 

Image002.jpg

 

Image001.jpg

 

Cheers,

 

Dan

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Guest Alan_builder

Hi Tim,

 

What I would do is;-

 

Take the header tank bottom outlet to the radiator lower pipe to the water pump.

Now take the waterpump top outlet to the "T".

 

As stated by others more water through the head for cooling.

 

Ps dont forget to block up the thermostat lower pipe.

 

Fit a pressure relief cap.

 

Well thats it for what it is worth.

 

I suspect that over time the design of the thermostat has changed and the current stats are different from some earlier ones. I seem to remember a time when the thermostat would have been a change over so the circuits changed when the engine was hot.

 

Hold on don't they heat the auto gear boxes? could that be what the 2nd water pump outlet was originally used for?

 

I :wub: RH

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I agree with Shane. Dont plumb the secound outlet into the other side of of the inlet manifold they will be working against each other if i'm reading that diagram correctly.

 

Send a PM to Barry to see what his set up is like.

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