Hot Engine

[Guest Mike G]

Hi Guys

Now that winter is looming up and air temperatures are dropping, my Exmo is still running hot enough to get the electric fan to stay ON most of the time. While the temperature on the gauge is not going into warp-drive, usually around 190-195 degrees F, I am concerned that this appears to leave nothing in reserve for occasions of queuing in traffic for long periods.

 

The fan is connected to an adjustable thermostat, so I can juggle the switch-on point. The radiator is a fairly new Sierra type, and was built with double internal tubing. However, to fit it in the nosecone, I had to slant it back at around 60 degrees instead of vertical. Also, the stainless suspension cross-member at the front probably blocks off some of the incoming air. I have surrounded the edges of the rad with rubber matting, so 99% of the incoming air should be getting to it.

 

The secondhand fan seems to shift a fair amount of heat, but perhaps I should bite the bullet and buy a new GT one! Anyone got ideas on a good source?

 

Also, any ideas on an electronic temperature gauge to double-check on my dashboard capillary one?

 

Cheers

Mike G

[Guest richlloyd]

Go buy this months edition of Practical performance car magazine it has all the answers to your questions and info on new shiney ally rads that will tempt you to spend your money!

[Guest Ace Fettler]

Biggest problem with Hoods is getting the hot air out from the engine bay. In effect the engine bay becomes a high pressure area which causes the cold air coming in at the front to stall. Additional bonnet vents or vents in the side panels would be a good mod. My own Exmo ran a twin core rad in the nose cone, electric fan set at about 90 degrees and didnt suffer any overheating problems, but the car had a louvred bonnet to help get all that hot air out. Another worth while mod is to lag the exhaust manifold back to the point where it exits the body, again this will reduce under bonnet temperature by a fair amount.

 

Hope you find the above useful

 

Richard

[Snapperpaul]

All Ace Fettler says is correct, another excellent mod is a metal tunnel or cowl to funnel the air from the front grill to the rad so that all the air has to go through and not round the sides, this is my next job.

I also have an oil cooler and whilst it does not increase the volume that the engine has in it at any one time, there is an increased volume of oil circulating to help disipate the heat. Another mod for the trully hot is to add a heater rad or two into the system and vent them to the outside, space permitting.

The fan a lot of people use is the Citreon BX to quote one leading member " It's like a small hovercraft" and don't be afraid to leave it on manually all the time.

[Guest timswait]

I think it's mostly been covered already, but a couple more things to check. If it only runs hot at speed then it's probably not ducting enough air from the nosecone through the rad. If it only runs hot in traffic, then you probably don't have a big enough fan. If it runs hot all the time then it's probably just not enough cooling capacity all round. If it has been running OK but is now running hot then check the thermostat opens and check the rad for blockages (feel across it for any cold areas indicating blocked cores).

P.S. Mine was always marginal on cooling on the original Cortina rad. Swapped it for the RH Coolman one and it's happy however I drive it.

[Longboarder]

Weak mixture and/or retarded ignition can also cause it to get a bit hot.

 

Nigel

[Guest Mike G]

I think I have followed the same ideas as suggested in your replies, thanks guys. I have RH slots in the bonnet, plus I fitted fairly large boat-type slots in both sides of bonnet also. I was unsure whether to do the same with the lower areas either side of the engine, as this might weaken the structure.

 

Another idea that crossed my mind is to fabricate or obtain some large diameter flexible trunking, to fit between the front-opening in the nosecone and the electric fan/rad. Anyone got any ideas on this? At present, I have merely blocked off all escape routes for air around the outside edge of the rad.

 

I junked the original pulley-driven fan in favour of a good scrappy electric one on an adjustable thermostat. Maybe I should consider either fitting a second fan on the other side of the rad, with a manual switch to be operated when I am bothered about the temperature gauge reading. OR I noticed in e-bay that some fans are 2-speeds. OR go for an expensive high-efficiency one (last resort!).

 

Cheers

Mike G

[Guest charlie]

All the suggestions look valid, and my hood /2.1 pinto on 40`s runs just below the red on the gauge,

but having driven down to Lemans this year at constant 70/80 mph and stuck in traffic on the way

down it never missed a beat!

this was with the fan on most of the time, but no probs, maybe we worry too much ?

although i intend dropping a fast cam in this winter perhaps i`ll eat my word`s,

[Guest elwe]

Since I replaced the water pump mine struggles to make half way on the temp guage. I don't have any of the extra cooling vents but I do have the very large visteon radiator. The new pump had a different design of impeller to the original one.

[Guest jcb1300]

Hi

 

I fitted a thermostat from what I am told is a Nissan Primera 16v as suggested by Big Jim on the NW Hoodies site. Works a treat on mine and I have't got any vents or louvres whatsoever in my bonnet.

 

The other mod I did was to lean the radiator backwards so that the fan (a big fettler from an old Rover) blows the cooling air down and under the engine instead of around the motor.

 

Before these mods the motor temp went right off the guage.

 

http://nw.rhocar.org/parts.htm

 

(Quinton Hazel Pt No) QTH370

 

The thermostat that starts to open at 77 degrees,but comes with a 'Baffle' fitted, this needs to be

removed along with it's mounting peg.

 

Try the 'stat they're only about £6, won't break the bank

 

Cheers

 

Ian