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2b Sliding Pilla Front Wheel Bearings


Guest feralsprint

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Guest feralsprint

OK we decided to adjust the front wheel bearings and it appears that the are adjusted from the back inside, is this correct and if so it would seem that we have to pull the whole front suspension set up apart to do it, am i missing something or is this correct, maybe its cause the car is upside down now its down here in Australia.

 

Let me know if I am wrong as I am really hoping I am

 

Jon

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You can't adjust the wheel bearings, the nut should be *eye-poppingly* tight. the torque setting for them is 310 -350 lbft, that swinging on a 6ft bar stuff.

If they are noisy, or loose, then they're knackered and you need to change them. (I've just done both front one on my car, again!) a bearing kit with nuts and new seal, is approx £18 from a motorfactors.

To do them you'll need a large socket to fit the nut, preferably with 3/4" drive rather than 1/2" a long tube to go over the T bar, a good vice that fixed to a solid bench (a workmate just won't do)

 

remove the wheel, remove the caliper from the stub axle and tie it up so as not to pull on the brake pipe, remove the disc, remove the whole stub axle assembly.

Now put the thing in the vice holding across the wheel studs so that the nut cover is upermost, remove the nut cover (don't damage it, you'll need it again) now undo the nut, first of all check to see if it's LH or RH thread, (LH threaded nuts always have "nicks" in the corners of the hex) now you can follow the proceedure as described here. don't forget to put plenty of nice new grease in. once you've rebuilt it all, tighten the nut as much as you can (use the tube)

refit everything and you're done.

Once you've done one, with the correct tools, it's not a big job, from start to finish less than an hour.

 

 

Jim

post-51-1168773685_thumb.jpg

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thats on a normal hood jim!.. on a 2b you are lookin at an hour to dismantle the bomb that acts as the front suspension!

 

OK, I've not looked at it, but can't you remove the hub along with the suspension, doesn't it bolt to the top mounting as a "package" the only problem then would it being bloody unwheldy (spelling?) whilst you worked on it, you'd need another person to hold onto the suspension.

Or does it not slide out of the stub axcle as a unit? sorry but I've never studied a slidding pillock suspender, didn't want to get too close to one. -_-

 

either way, they still need changing!

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the shaft covers the nut cover, to the main nut

 

you can relese this by undoing the top and bottom shaft nuts, bu to remove the shaft you have to release the tension in the suspension spring...and the gaps between coils is too tight for most compressors

 

i put mine together in the first place with a pillar drill as a press and lots of cable ties and a bit of rope :ph34r:

 

crash helmet required :lol:

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Guest mark kingston

brave man

i altered a set of spring compressors to fit and even then i was very nervose as they looked a little on the thin side.

i agree with dave you have to strip down the whole front end.

when i replaced mine at the time of building the car i bolted the hub to an old disc and clamped the whole thing down to an old mill table so i could get a good swing on the torque wrench to get them up to the right tightness.

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Guest feralsprint

Thanks for the replies people it is as I feared after looking at the thing, not fun but i guess we will have to do it soon as the passenger side has movement :unsure:

 

regards

Jon

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