12 V Feed To Ignition Coil Question

[Guest AndrewH]

I have just put a new 1.8 ohm ballast High performance Ignition coil into my car with a standard contact points dizzy. This was to replace a previous ignition coil that burnt out.

 

I have put the ballast into the the ignition feed that goes into the positive side of the coil effectively reducing it down to a 9v supply (not one previously hence coil burning out!). Everything starts beautifully and car is perfoming better due to the new coil however it is recommended that you also install a 12v feed into the coil that is only effective at starting to generate a better spark.

 

However this is where I have an issue and hence the question. Burton power suggest you run the feed off the starter yet when I did this last night I ended up with smoking wire. I ran the wire directly off the solenoid from the side that has the feed into it rather than side with the connection with the big fat wires that go to the alternator.

 

I thought this was the right thing to do and was surprise that it smoked.

 

So the question is:

 

1) Given I am only going to be driving the car on dry days/weekends and it is garaged do i need to worry about putting in a 12v feed for starting

 

2) Am I doing the right thing with the starter motor and should I have another go

 

3) Is there a better point to take a 12v feed from my existing loom rather than the starter motor

 

Any help on this question would be greatly appreciated.

 

PS - I know I could upgrade the whole system to make it electronic howver I kinda like playing with my points at the moment!

 

Thanks a lot

[Longboarder]

Not all starters/solenoids have the fourth terminal on them which is designed to supply battery voltage for the coil during cranking. Assuming yours does then the only way the bypass wire could carry enough current to make it smoke would be if you had connected it to the coil terminal with the wire to the points and the points were closed. ie direct to earth. It should share the positive coil terminal with the 9v supply. If you keep the car battery and electrics in good condition you don't need the unballasted starting bypass anyway!

 

Nigel

[Grizzly]

Hi Andrew,

I'm no auto electrician but would like to chip in. I had problems like this once 'on the road'.

My points kept burning out after every few hundred miles.

Tried another coil (wrong type - points burned out immediately!). Tried Ballast resistor - was told to not bother.

Eventually capitulated and bought an Aldon Electronic Ignition unit (not too expensive actually).

 

Now, No points, No Ballast Resistor, No problems.

[Guest AndrewH]

Thanks for the replies,

 

Nigel I think you are spot on. I think the issue is that the starter doesn't have the fourth terminal for the coil as I wired it into the positive side of the coil as it should be.

 

Given I have a new loom and new battery I will opt for the 'not bypassing the ballast' route which keeps things nice and simple and confirms what I thought.

 

I think this will see me through until I save enough pennies to to switch to Electonic Ignition.....

 

regards

 

Andrew

[Guest Bazwaz]

I had a similar issue when i replaced the starter on the V8. The new one didn't have a terminal for the bypass wire. After talking to an auto electrician he suggested wiring in a switch supplying 12volts to the coil on starting. I tried it but it didn't make any differance so now it starts and runs on 9 volts with no problems.