Floor Pan Is Too Flimsy

[Guest adame]

Car - 2B Stainless

 

I have my floor pan fitted but it seems to be very thin and flimsy. every time i step on it, it flexes and buckles.

I do not feel confident in fixing my seats to it.

 

Has anyone used a different material for their floor pan?

or re-inforced it some way?

 

Your thoughts and feedbck are greatly appreciated.

 

-Adam

[Guest SteveL]

Car - 2B Stainless

 

I have my floor pan fitted but it seems to be very thin and flimsy. every time i step on it, it flexes and buckles.

I do not feel confident in fixing my seats to it.

 

Has anyone used a different material for their floor pan?

or re-inforced it some way?

 

Your thoughts and feedback are greatly appreciated.

 

-Adam

 

Hi Adam

 

Get some long angle iron pieces, attached to the chassis at each end (you can use the mounting plates for the rear suspension for the rearmost piece, if I remember correctly) and then attach the seats to the angle iron through the floor. If you simply attach the seats to the floor, it'll be an SVA fail.

 

Steve

[Guest chris brown]

Car - 2B Stainless

 

I have my floor pan fitted but it seems to be very thin and flimsy. every time i step on it, it flexes and buckles.

I do not feel confident in fixing my seats to it.

 

Has anyone used a different material for their floor pan?

or re-inforced it some way?

 

Your thoughts and feedbck are greatly appreciated.

 

-Adam

The seats must not be bolted just to the floor panel (SVA man he not like it) but to angle irons that go the full width of the car. The front iron can also be used to support the handbrake. I made up an H shaped frame where the two sides of the H are 25mm x 3mm angle that go right across the car picking up the seat bolts and the cross part of the H is 100mm x 3mm flat bar which takes the handbrake (both mounting bolts).

[Guest STEVE OXON]

hi. i ran a length of 1'' angle iron across the floor on the inside of the car.using that as front seat mount,

the large section across the back for the handbrake.,also on the inside. keeps the underfloor smooth and subsequently fitted handbrake on top of tunnel.

the ones across the floor should attach also to the side frames iirc.

hth

steve

[Joel]

Yep, as mentioned above the angle actually has to fix to the chassis at either end!

[Guest adame]

Thanks for your quick replies, you've been very helpfull.

Wish I'd gone for a all mild steel version though - much easier to form, cut, drill etc and less worry about stratching!

 

Cheers -Ad

[Guest SEgan]

Wish I'd gone for a all mild steel version though - much easier to form, cut, drill etc and less worry about stratching!

 

Cheers -Ad

 

Stick with it, looks great when finished, less worry about rusting especially when the roads are like they are at the moment.

[Nigel Rogers]

Wish I'd gone for a all mild steel version though - much easier to form, cut, drill etc and less worry about stratching!

 

I did get a mild steel version and I seem to spend more time painting than building

 

A piece of angle iron bolted the full width of the car should sort your floor out, there are loads of pictures on the forum of different ways of tackling the problem, try a search on floor strengthening/handbrake bracket/seat mounting.

 

Cheers

Nige

[Snapperpaul]

Join the Essex club and have a look at how others have solved the problem, you have mail.

 

See ESSEX meet at the top of the page.

[Guest robinj66]

The seats must not be bolted just to the floor panel (SVA man he not like it) but to angle irons that go the full width of the car. The front iron can also be used to support the handbrake. I made up an H shaped frame where the two sides of the H are 25mm x 3mm angle that go right across the car picking up the seat bolts and the cross part of the H is 100mm x 3mm flat bar which takes the handbrake (both mounting bolts).

 

 

I have a stainless S7 which is a moncoque design. Do you rhink I will still need angle across the whole width of the car? - I was planning on using shorter lengths across each floor area. (IE, does it need to be one continuous length of angle under the car?)

[Snapperpaul]

Robin66 on my series 3 i have made a frame from angle iron/shelving dexion and run 2 bits both sides from the front gearbox cross brace to the rear lip of the tub bolted and braced. I now have a nice firm floor and no flexing. When i have done my welding course i will weld the bits together.

For SVA you only need some good thick square load spreading washers for a pass but i went for the "no possibility of flexing" approach.