New Lightweight Owner

[Guest ScotMac]

I bought the "Lightweight kit" from Coveland and got several suprises.

 

One is that to me a proper kit has instructions, the parts are numbered and there is an exploded view with the parts illustrated.

 

Two is that the parts aren't identified in anyway.

 

Three is that Jim at Coveland will not answer the phone nor return emails.

 

Four is that an adhesive is not reccommended.

 

Five is that anyone would think that a kit they purchased would be unsafe to drive. This strengthing thing really concerns me.

 

This is not a car that Coveland started and never finished. Apparently Coveland stripped the kit of certain parts and cut the price.

 

I would not reccommend buying anything from Jim at Coveland. While Coveland was quick to charge my credit card they have done nothing to assist me.

 

One: As i mentioned, the videos are actually quite good, but this is not a paint by the numbers affair. If you are looking for a easy build, then you should sell the kit or return it to coveland.

 

Two: Again, the video is good...it has *clear* pictures of every part.

 

Three: Can't help what coveland does or does not do.

 

Four: Look back at my posts. Numerous times i have listed the glue i am using: "Lord Fusor 112B/113B Metal Bonding Adhesive". It is an automotive strength glue used by body shops to attach body panels.

 

Five: I would drive a l/w w/out strengthening, but slowly and gingerly. I will put my strengthened l/w on the race track.

 

Glad to hear about it not being a coveland part build. So, the chassis is NOT assembled? If that is true, great. That makes your strengthening A LOT easier. In fact, it would make you the FIRST builder that has the option of incorporating my strengthening (everyone else had already completed the chassis when they decided to strengthen it, and thus were in Graham's boat).

 

I am in the process of copying the videos (dvd's) for you. I have finished 4 out of 7. As soon as you get them, and you have viewed them, we should talk about the strengthening. I would not start on the chassis until you have a clear picture of what you want to do w/ the strengthening, since you start out on the l/w w/ some important chassis areas (eg, diff area).

 

-Scot

[Guest DoLittle52]

Scot,

 

Search on ScotMac did not turn up the type of adhesive, thanks. My concern is aluminum oxide. Is there some primer that has to be applied before the adhesive? Did you "scuff" the parts?

[Guest ScotMac]

Scot,

 

Search on ScotMac did not turn up the type of adhesive, thanks. My concern is aluminum oxide. Is there some primer that has to be applied before the adhesive? Did you "scuff" the parts?

 

Hi Chuck, you don't want to paint it, but you do want to clean it. The surface must be free of all non-aluminum (no adhesive, e-coating, corrosive protection, etc). I just run an electric sander over the surface to give it a nice clean raw/rough aluminum surface for the glue.

[Guest gdc]

hi chuck

 

just to reinforce what scott said do not do anything till you have seen the dvds!!!!!!!!!

 

i got the photos and it is a lightweight kit and that is how it arrives.scarry isnt it.

but as scott said it goes together fairly easy my view is it must be bonded , build time if you are working and only doing it sparetime should be about 12 to 18 months.

 

re not safe unstrengthened

the origonal idea that the founder of robin hood had was for it to be a track car only built for one season only then rebuilt with a new shell for the following year,but with changing owners this kit was then advertised as sutable for the road.and sold as such.

dont feel to bad re having to strengthen it now. as mine was finnished and trimmed ,subsiquently stripped strengthend and then rebuilt.

re keeping it or returning it .

if you want a unique sports car for what must be a reasnoble cost then keep it a build it.

if you want a straight foreward quick build then try to return it and spend poss 10 times the ammount

on a kit that is easier to build and comes with all the bits.

i dont know what it cost from coveland was but on this side of the pond it was about £2000 for the basic kit.

a westfield would have been about £15000.

a a top spec chaterham about £32000

i couldnt afford either option so now i am a happy hoodie.

mend make and addapt =hoodie

 

regards graham

[Guest ScotMac]

Coveland *was* charging $8k for the l/w kit. Chuck said he got a bargain, so i would assume not over $6k. The shipping of the kit cost me about $1k, so i paid about $5k (2000gbp==$4k + $1k/shipping = $5k).

 

Chuck now has the DVDs, so i hope to soon have company in the US l/w builder camp! ;-)

[Guest gdc]

Coveland *was* charging $8k for the l/w kit. Chuck said he got a bargain, so i would assume not over $6k. The shipping of the kit cost me about $1k, so i paid about $5k (2000gbp==$4k + $1k/shipping = $5k).

 

Chuck now has the DVDs, so i hope to soon have company in the US l/w builder camp! ;-)

chuck

review the dvds before making your desion

the lightweight can be made into a realy good car

the addaptions ie the strengtheningis is not too much workand with mine on the road i can say with complete confidence that it works.the car is stiff and dosnt flex with use.

regards graham

[Guest DoLittle52]

Now that I have a working rivet gun and the DVD instructions I am moving forward.

[Guest ScotMac]

Now that I have a working rivet gun and the DVD instructions I am moving forward.

 

Yes, a working rivet gun can be useful when building a l/w.

 

 

Hope the build is going well Chuck. I am working on redoing the rear suspension, switching the zeemers to QA1's to match the front. And switching the rear brakes to my own custom designed wilwood package. Should be about half the unsprung weight of RallyD's wilwood based rear brake package (which they won't ship to the US anyway!). I put up some picture once i finish the left side, which should be tomorrow.

 

In fact, what i have done for the rear brakes will work for any Sierra based car. I'll put up the wilwood part numbers w/ the pictures, along a descripton of the custom bracket required to get it to work: similar to the normal drum to disk caliper mounting bracket, but in aluminum instead of steal.

Edited February 9, 2008 by ScotMac

[Guest CDD]

Hi: I'm having a heck of a time figuring out how to reply to this forum so please be patient. I am in the process of buying one of Coveland's Lightweights and have not had any problems in communication. I'm monitoring the whole purchase thing with my card company because of some negative blogs I guess we will find out when we finalize/ receive the car. My name is Doug Dewitz from Kanab,Ut. I backed into this kit thing by wanting the cars I had years ago.(Triumphs). Having had Harleys for the past 20 years I wanted to move on and build a Locost. I'm in the process of learning component choices and will need the help of RHOCAR members for just about everything! Is there a US RHOCAR Contact on membership? I will explore this site a lot further. I'm assuming I'm getting the set of videos with the kit. Is there an assembly manual? Who needs a TV in the shop. Just wanted to say hi to someone on this site and would appreciate hearing from some fabricators here in the states or from GB.

[Guest ScotMac]

Quick reply Doug. We should talk. I really like my lightweight alot, it is going to be a great and unique car. However, it has required a ton of fabrication. It didn't bother me that much, since it is my first car (don't know better). But Joe (Patent), who has done many cars, was also really surprised about the amount of fab.

 

I am sure you can handle it, but you need to know what you are getting yourself into. The car requires a good amount of fab, even w/out the strengthening...but with the strengthening ...

 

Also, if you do get the l/w make sure coveland gives you all the parts. For example (things you might not consider), i got a full light set, carpeting, a radiator, top and bottom balljoints for the front, windshield, windsheild supports, two dash panels, a steering rack (matched VERY specifically for this car), ... just some of the stuff you should ask about.

 

- Scot

Edited April 6, 2008 by ScotMac

[Guest ScotMac]

Oh, and don't pay full price. Coveland is looking to get them pushed out the door. Negotiate.

[Guest ScotMac]

In fact, take a look at some of my posts, about price. I would NOT pay much more than what i paid to get mine directly from RH (it only cost $800 ($1000 w/ customs) to ship it all the way to calif).

Edited April 7, 2008 by ScotMac

[Guest CDD]

ScotMac: Got your E-mail in my inbox through Rhocar. I paid about the RH asking price 16-1700 pounds. According to Jim I should be getting pretty much the kit items as listed on the RH and Coveland site. You did good on the shipping as it's costing me 700 plus to get the kit from NY to Utah with extra damage and liability ins. I expect this thing is going to be a pile of sheet metal and bits and pieces. Though the RH site talked about changing the folded sheet metal monoque frame to tube in 2006; I'm assuming I may be getting the folded sheet. Am I correct. Jim is including a Seirra rear end. What are you planning on motor/tranny/ drive shaft/ front suspension?Expect car pickup 4/7/09 and Fed Ex says approx 10 day ship so will post more if and when it shows up. Do you know anyone out there in Ca that wants a 75 Dodge van with a 75 Superglide included?? I want to say goodby to one odd fetish and move on to this RH weird fetish. Showed a pic of a "7" to a fellow here at the local pub and he immediatly offered labor in exchange for beer and social involvement in construction; so there may be three of us scratching our heads with beers in hand!!!

More later

Doug

[Guest gdc]

hi doug

if it arrives as sheet ally then its a lightweight.

if the thing looks like a roll bar on steroides then its a 2 b

the lightweight can be improoved ,follow scotts streangthening advice.

this car can be improved and made into a very good 7 .

 

regards graham

[Guest DoLittle52]

A model airplane it ain't. Should you open the crate and then call your buddies to commensurate and they pick up an unmarked part and ask, "what is this" the kit is a lightweight.

 

If you have to construct more parts to make you think the thing is safe then it is a lightweight.

 

If you don't get any instructions, you have been dealing with Jim at Coveland.

 

Chant after me adhesive, adhesive, adhesive.

 

You will need a hydraulic rivet gun. I got mine from Harbor Freight and had to put an 0 in it. An air nibbler is good. You will need a compressor.

 

Never fear we will help.