L/w Rear Shock Mount

[Guest JNS]

HELLO,

I am new,so bare with me.I am almost finished with my l/w, but I have a question of how close to the edge of the car should I mount my rear upper shock mounts?

THANKS

[Guest ScotMac]

Well, you don't have enough room, really, to mount them on the *outside* of where the roll bar is anchored, and you can't mount where the roll bar is anchored. So, that leaves just past where the roll bar is anchored. That's where i mounted mine, and if i remember right, it was right around the 160mm that Tricky Dick proposed in the video.

 

It really is more dependent on what shock (and spring) you are using. ie, you want to place it in a good spot to get the correct ride height in the back.

 

Let me guess, you have a new shock (as opposed to the zeemer), and it is a bit short?

 

HTHs.

 

- Scot

Edited February 6, 2008 by ScotMac

[Guest gdc]

hi as scott said the point is around the 160mm mark and i used 1 of the bolts to ancher 1 of my 4 point harnesses to.

if you have added a further seat back ie strengthening to the seat back the mount will need to be remanufactured to allow for the extra thickness of material, ie same base but with an offset to connect to the top of the strut of the schock.

if you need ideas go to big lees web site . he is kindly hosting all of my lightweight pictures under lightweight.

hope this has been of help.

 

regards graham

[Guest JNS]

Well, you don't have enough room, really, to mount them on the *outside* of where the roll bar is anchored, and you can't mount where the roll bar is anchored. So, that leaves just past where the roll bar is anchored. That's where i mounted mine, and if i remember right, it was right around the 160mm that Tricky Dick proposed in the video.

 

It really is more dependent on what shock (and spring) you are using. ie, you want to place it in a good spot to get the correct ride height in the back.

 

Let me guess, you have a new shock (as opposed to the zeemer), and it is a bit short?

 

HTHs.

 

- Scot

Thanks Scott

I believe i have the short shocks. Since i have a different roll bar i am able move the shock outward until the spring clears just enough.

Thanks again

JOE

[Guest JNS]

hi as scott said the point is around the 160mm mark and i used 1 of the bolts to ancher 1 of my 4 point harnesses to.

if you have added a further seat back ie strengthening to the seat back the mount will need to be remanufactured to allow for the extra thickness of material, ie same base but with an offset to connect to the top of the strut of the schock.

if you need ideas go to big lees web site . he is kindly hosting all of my lightweight pictures under lightweight.

hope this has been of help.

 

regards graham

Thanks Graham

I did what you and scott said,it gives me more tire clearance.

Regards

Joe

[Guest ScotMac]

I hadn't even noticed that you are in the US. Welcome Joe. You are the third active US based l/w builder that i know of. Pop in and give us progress reports periodically.

 

My claim to fame is getting more squashed everyday. From only US l/w builder to the only *west* coast builder!!

[Guest JNS]

I hadn't even noticed that you are in the US. Welcome Joe. You are the third active US based l/w builder that i know of. Pop in and give us progress reports periodically.

 

My claim to fame is getting more squashed everyday. From only US l/w builder to the only *west* coast builder!!

HI SCOT AND ALL THE REST,

Yes I live in the states, Amish country, Lancaster.Pa So I have to watch out for the buggies.I am almost finished with my L/W. I am running a 1600 Kent with twin webers and a mild cam, Aldon dis.There sure was a lot of fabracation involved in building this car. A few questions I have, what seats are people using (PLEASE DON'T SAY KERKEY) I like them, but not in this car. also do you really have to use all those spacers in the axle support? The car will be for sale when i'm finished.

Regards

Joe

[Guest ScotMac]

HI SCOT AND ALL THE REST,

Yes I live in the states, Amish country, Lancaster.Pa So I have to watch out for the buggies.I am almost finished with my L/W. I am running a 1600 Kent with twin webers and a mild cam, Aldon dis.There sure was a lot of fabracation involved in building this car. A few questions I have, what seats are people using (PLEASE DON'T SAY KERKEY) I like them, but not in this car. also do you really have to use all those spacers in the axle support? The car will be for sale when i'm finished.

Regards

Joe

 

Yep, i am using kirkey (economy). Must be less than 16". What other performance seat have you found that will fit the l/w?

 

Yep, needed all the spacers. Helped line up that custom rear caliper bracket, in fact.

[Guest ScotMac]

Joe, yes, there was a lot of fabricating, especially in the chassis strengthening. RobinHoods are known for it. What did you do for chassis strengthening? Did you bond it also? Have a site or online repository for fotos?

 

I assume you got the car from coveland? When did you buy it, and at what price, if you don't mind my asking?

 

-Scot

[Guest JNS]

Joe, yes, there was a lot of fabricating, especially in the chassis strengthening. RobinHoods are known for it. What did you do for chassis strengthening? Did you bond it also? Have a site or online repository for fotos?

 

I assume you got the car from coveland? When did you buy it, and at what price, if you don't mind my asking?

 

-Scot

Hi Scot,

No i don't mind yoy asking. I payed $ 8000.00 for it, and he through in a rear and a rear stiffener. Jim said there was no nead to bond it, i question that now. I stiffened the sides back and rear and engine bay, i might do somemore later. Back to my earler question about the spacers. Do you need them so your axle woun't bind or what?

Regards

Joe

ps. how do i not show this big box when i return reply

[Guest ScotMac]

Hi Joe, to reply w/out the quote, simply use the "add reply" at the very bottom.

 

Yes, there was some cv-joint binding on the right side, if i don't use the spacers. I assume you are using the lobro (bolt on) cv-axles. When i had them on my car, i believe they actually have a bit more movement. I can't use them. I have ZF LSD that will not allow me to apply the circlips on the inside, and thus must use the "push-in" (spring based instead of circlips) axles. Also, are you using drums in the rear? The drums definitely have more STUFF (that drum back plate) where i put the spacers.

 

Yes, Jim bothers me. Last time i checked, he hadn't even finished his own kit. If he doesn't have one on the road, and has not finished one, how can he be recommending to you to NOT bond it?!?

[Guest gdc]

hi

sorry to but in to the us vertion of rhocar,

scott i think as you do that the body must be bonded and i think you are aware of the requirements here to achive sva and on road status.

i dont want to gloat but the cost of the kit here when new was less than £2000, i can accept a mark up by coveland and some inport tax , but $8000 seems excesive.

re the seats mine are cobra roadster 7 and they are still very tight.

re photos yes please!

if you want to look at mine the photos are on big lees web site through rhocar , scott can you do a link ?

why are you selling the car after all that work patent?

regards graham

[Guest ScotMac]

Actually, i paid 1795gbp's for mine, plus the $800 or so to ship it (to california), and a couple hundred ($) to customs. Yes, Jim's $8000 price is a bit much, especially considering his lack of support. He didn't even give Chuck the DVDs!!! Sorry i asked about the price Joe. I was just hoping you got it cheaper, because i know that Jim has lowered the price recently. All comes down to when you purchased, actually.

 

Here's the link to Graham's photos:

 

http://lees7.co.uk/gallery14.asp

 

Graham, i hadn't looked at them in their entirety before. Looks good. Your stengthening was definitely extensive...but as you have said, at the time, the UK l/w community NEEDED an SVA pass. Alot of the areas are similar to mine (the diff box obviously, the roll-over bar rear stay bolt on area, the floor pans, ...). But one area that confused me is the thick plate on the outside, back body panel just inside the rear hoops. That area is not load bearing.

 

Yes, finding ANY seat to fit is difficult, let alone after i add the restriction that i would like it to be under $250/seat.

 

-Scot

[Guest JNS]

HELLO SCOT & GRAHAM,

The reason for selling, good question. I just like working on cars, so when i get done with one i sell it. My wife says if you don't have something to work on get something.

, i guess i drive her nuts.

Does anyone know what tie rod ends to use with Pinto uprights?

Regards Joe

PS I MET JIM LAST YEAR AND HE SEEM LIKE A NICE GUY.

[Guest ScotMac]

Joe, I agree...i have talked to Jim on the phone, and he seems like an ok guy. But his actions don't match his words. He didn't like what he got from RH on the l/w deal, and instead of trying to make some good out of it (like packaging the strengthening w/ the kit and building a great example themselves), he is instead trying to dump them as quickly as possible, w/ little regard to the consumer and no support. He wouldn't even answer Chucks calls after selling him a lightweight w/ no instructions.

 

I thought about using pinto stuff, but instead used some aluminum Sierra/Merkur replacement Raceleda uprights. For my tie-rod-end, i used a rose joint. I took out the tapered sleeve in my steering arm, and then had a custom "pin" made by a machine shop, where the "pin" was made to fit the steering arm slot and the rose joint. Worked well. I would think you would be able to do a similare setup, w/ the machine shop simple matching the pin to whatever setup (taper or slot) is on the pinto steering arm.

 

Did the balljoints that come w/ the l/w kit fit the pinto uprights? Specifically, the bottom one, since the a-arms are setup for the three bolt one that comes w/ the UK RH kit, and i would assume that one would not match the pinto lower taper. Also, how is the pinto geometry working for you? The KPI for a pinto is around 7-8 degrees, right? Does that work for the scrub-radius? Also, what about the placement of the steering arm? Does it induce bump steer?

 

-Scot