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Help Please


Guest chenzo

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Guest chenzo

I have just purchased a rh 2b yesterday.

 

Need help as i have noticed that on the front suspension on both sides there is a welded plate that then is bolted to the bottom of the brake caliper. One has completly sheered off and the other has a split in it. Also found that the damper rubs on the wheel on one side when you turn.

 

Dont know what to do and how to resolve it, is this a common fault or have i just bought a duff car. Please can anyone help as i am a novice at this. Spoke to the bloke i bought it off and he didnt really want to know. I will try and put pictures on. If not i can email them to you.

 

 

Regards,

 

Shaun

post-3255-1218965068_thumb.jpg

Edited by chenzo
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Hi Shaun

Sounds to me that you have a car with sliding pillar set up. Could be an easy fix with the plates being rewelded to the tube and it sounds like the top mounting for the damper just requires moving round for it to clear the tyre.

Regards

maca

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Hi Shaun,

what you have is the sliding pillar setup.

Its not great but it does work with a few mods.

The damper issue is usually solved with 5mm wheel spacers.

Its location is determined by the spring holding the plate firm, but it can be moved by tensioning the

plate in the right direction & hitting the spring with a rubber mallet.....seriously!

 

The bracket is more of a problem. It can be easily re-welded, but you need to find out

why it broke in the first place. I had this setup on my car & track day'd it several times,

abused it badly on the road & never had an issue with that bracket. Check for any built in stress on it.

Loosen all the caliper bolts & retighten them when its fixed. Coulkd be that the previous owner tightened the sliding shaft then forced the bracket to meet the caliper.

I dont recall anyone ever having a similar problem.....anyone?

 

The other weak point is the cycle wing bracket where it passes behind the strut.

You need to weld in two triangular fillets between the tube & the plate or it will stess fracture

in just a few miles.

 

HTH Bob

 

Just had another look at your picture. Check the threaded stud in the bottom of the chrome tube. It should be firml;y bolted to the lower fixed wishbone. The plate has pulled a fair way out of line, & the only way I can see that happening is if the strut itself can move. These studs are pretty small & many have changed them by getting the chrome shaft drilled & tapped for a much bigger stud. Also check that the pinch bolt at the top of the hub is clamping up tightly on the sliding bush & that there is not too much play between the shaft & the bush.

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Guest chenzo
Shaun where abouts are you so who ever is in your area can contact you and maybe help

 

Phil

 

 

i live near ipswich in Suffolk, I have uplaoded a picture now. I cant work out what it does. The calliper is bolted with two bolts anyway.

 

Shaun

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i live near ipswich in Suffolk, I have uplaoded a picture now. I cant work out what it does. The calliper is bolted with two bolts anyway.

 

Shaun

 

Hi Shaun

The object of the plate is to locate the tube and the hub mounting from sliding or turning on the tube. Make sure when you do rebuild the unit up that you secure the pinch bolt as Bob has already said.

Regards

maca

 

PS. I would not recommend you driving the car until you have repaired both sides as you may cause more damage to the setup.

Edited by maca
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Guest chenzo
Hi Shaun,

what you have is the sliding pillar setup.

Its not great but it does work with a few mods.

The damper issue is usually solved with 5mm wheel spacers.

Its location is determined by the spring holding the plate firm, but it can be moved by tensioning the

plate in the right direction & hitting the spring with a rubber mallet.....seriously!

 

The bracket is more of a problem. It can be easily re-welded, but you need to find out

why it broke in the first place. I had this setup on my car & track day'd it several times,

abused it badly on the road & never had an issue with that bracket. Check for any built in stress on it.

Loosen all the caliper bolts & retighten them when its fixed. Coulkd be that the previous owner tightened the sliding shaft then forced the bracket to meet the caliper.

I dont recall anyone ever having a similar problem.....anyone?

 

The other weak point is the cycle wing bracket where it passes behind the strut.

You need to weld in two triangular fillets between the tube & the plate or it will stess fracture

in just a few miles.

 

HTH Bob

 

Just had another look at your picture. Check the threaded stud in the bottom of the chrome tube. It should be firml;y bolted to the lower fixed wishbone. The plate has pulled a fair way out of line, & the only way I can see that happening is if the strut itself can move. These studs are pretty small & many have changed them by getting the chrome shaft drilled & tapped for a much bigger stud. Also check that the pinch bolt at the top of the hub is clamping up tightly on the sliding bush & that there is not too much play between the shaft & the bush.

 

Can you tell me what that bracket does and if its safe to drive

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Guest chenzo
Hi Shaun

The object of the plate is to locate the tube and the hub mounting from sliding or turning on the tube. Make sure when you do rebuild the unit up that you secure the pinch bolt as Bob has already said.

Regards

maca

 

 

Can you tell me if it ok to drive untill i get it fexed,

 

 

Thanks,

 

shaun

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Can you tell me what that bracket does and if its safe to drive

Hi Shaun

 

Please see my last post No. 6 would not recommend driving until repairs carried out.

Hope that you enjoy the car once you have it back on the road still building mine see my web site.

Regards

maca

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Ideally the sliding bush would be rigidly fixed top & bottom....but it relies solely on the pinch bolt at the top,

so there is a good deal of leverage from the bottom of the shaft.

The bracket is a way to make the bush more rigid.

It is possible that the pinch bolt jams the split before it clamps on the bush (mine did)

I removed the bolt & ran a thin grinding wheel in the slot to widen it.

That way it clamped the bush before it "bottomed out"

 

I'd advise against driving it till you know exactly why it broke, & fix that as well as the bracket.

 

Dont worry, there isnt much that cant be fixed on this setup!!

Bob

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Guest chenzo

I found the problem why my bracket that broke. The nut at the bottom of the shock absorber was loose as it is cross threaded because the washers at the bottom are to thin and it met the end.

 

Please can anyone tell me if i can buy these shocks with the bracket that bolts onto the calliper. If so where do i get them please.

 

Sorry to keep hastleing you all.

 

Regards,

 

Shaun.

post-3255-1218999167_thumb.jpg

Edited by Ian & Carole
Merged this into previous post as they follow on.
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Guest Ian & Carole

Hi Shaun

 

I feel certain that the bit you need (dummy strut) is no longer available, unless you come across some one who is doing the wish bone conversion.

 

No reason why you con't get yours welded back together, now you know what caused the failiure, it won't be a problem again.

 

Our car did three years, and several trips across the Yorkshire moors, some times air borne :o :D with no sign of failure.

 

The actual shock absorbers used on this set up are old style B / Leyland Mini.

 

HTHs

 

ps asking questions you need answers to is not haseling us, it is what this board is here for.

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Guest chenzo
Hi Shaun

 

I feel certain that the bit you need (dummy strut) is no longer available, unless you come across some one who is doing the wish bone conversion.

 

No reason why you con't get yours welded back together, now you know what caused the failiure, it won't be a problem again.

 

Our car did three years, and several trips across the Yorkshire moors, some times air borne :o :D with no sign of failure.

 

The actual shock absorbers used on this set up are old style B / Leyland Mini.

 

HTHs

 

ps asking questions you need answers to is not haseling us, it is what this board is here for.

 

Got a problem as it is cross threaded on the bottom. Can you help???

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The shock-absorber being loose (or even missing for that matter) wouldn't cause that bracket to break off. The tube that the bracket is welded to MUST be securely attached to the front hub (the big cast bit from the Sierra). In effect you are trying to make them one piece. The only reason that the bracket can have failed is because the top of the hub hasn't been pinching the top of the tube and getting a grip on it (or at least not enough). This means that the whole weight of that corner has been put on that bracket - with the results you've seen. This is what Bob is getting at.

 

The lower shock absorber is fastened to a hole which was drilled in the hub whilst it was being built and a bolt goes through the whole lot with a small spacer between the hub and the lower eye on the shock. Is this the bit that's been cross threaded? If so just replace the bolt with a high-tensile one of the right length and diameter (using a Mini shock absorber would make this 5/16" diameter but length I don't know off the top of my head).

 

The shock doesn't connect to the caliper.

 

Iain

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