Sliding Pillar Question

[Knock-on]

What gap has anyone got between the Damper and the wheel on their sliding pillar.

 

I have just rebuilt my front suspension (finally finished it at Midnight) and to start with, the Damper was just about touching the front wheel. This is the natural position it wants to take.

 

Anyway, by jiggleing the suspension coil round a bit, it's opened up a finger gap but this seems a bit tight???

 

Any ideas?

[Bob Tucker]

There are no compressable bushes in the SP suspension, so

there is no need for much gap at all. Any clearance (with the wheel spinning)

will be OK.

 

I had to fit 5mm spacers to get a gap. Without it, the spring touched the wheel, so the gap was

no more than 5mm..

 

Bob

[Knock-on]

There are no compressable bushes in the SP suspension, so

there is no need for much gap at all. Any clearance (with the wheel spinning)

will be OK.

 

I had to fit 5mm spacers to get a gap. Without it, the spring touched the wheel, so the gap was

no more than 5mm..

 

Bob

 

Hi Bob

 

I'm cool with the coilover spring. It's the damper that sits on a twistable bearing that's causing me worry.

 

Where "A" is the rolling mounting point that allows the Damper to rotate and "B" is the edge closest to the wheel.

 

By grabbing hold of the suspension coil and twisting hard, you can move the Damper round a touch but with vibration under normal use, it's going to want to move back to where it is here.

[Guest bimboone]

mine was the same too close for comfort i done the same twisted the spring wich was fine but it wanted to come back to the original position so i fitted a wheeel spacer still close but enough gap to stop me worrying.

[Bob Tucker]

Ah now I remember......

Pull the damper & plate to where you want it to stay, then hit the side of the

spring with a rubber mallet. It jars the upper plate to a new point, where it stays.

 

Always remember, most Hoody problems will require the use of a hammer....if the problem persists, use a bigger hammer.

Bob

[Guest john]

And don't try to get away with std ford offset wheels, such as off the donor.

Use spacers, or peugeot offsets which give more clearance.

HTH

[Guest starnie67]

i ordered my new wheels with a peugeot offset and stud pattern as they fit the ford hub and sit further iut of the arch,,

 

worked a treat fill the arch and dont have the spacer issues eg horible things!

[Knock-on]

i ordered my new wheels with a peugeot offset and stud pattern as they fit the ford hub and sit further iut of the arch,,

 

worked a treat fill the arch and dont have the spacer issues eg horible things!

 

I'm going to have a little think about how to get it sitting more in line with the shock first.

 

I think moving it out with a few spacers on the bottom damper mounting may help.

 

Either that or use the family sized persueader as previously recommended

[Guest john]

Peugeot offsets is the right solution, dont' spend too long trying Larry. Many of us have faced the same puzzle.

[Dave R]

i have spacers on my wheels

maybe 20mm thick, but they do locate on the center of the hub and they do replicate the hub center for the wheel to locate on

they would also need a big hammer by now to get them to come off!

 

dave

[Guest john]

With spacers that thick, would he need longer studs Dave ?

[Dave R]

yes

got mine from one of the shows

they are available

[Knock-on]

yes

got mine from one of the shows

they are available

 

I think I will just get some 10mm ones to give me a bit of breathing room. Shouldn't have to change the studs then.

 

Something like this...

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...mMakeTrack=true

 

Thanks for all the advice. If it's not one thing, it's another