Heater Matrix Cut Off Tap

[Jamiep]

After fitting the roof and doors I've realised the need to cut the water supply to the heater matrix, I think I lost about 2 stone driving home from work

My question is: which of the 2 hoses is the feed to the matrix, the one to the front of the engine or the one to the inlet manifold?

 

Also, its just occurred to me whilst typing this, Should I have some sort of bypass in there to maintain the flow through the engine?

 

your help is much appreciated.

 

Regards.

 

[Guest erichetherington]

If all you want to do is stop water from circulating I can't see that it makes any difference which pipe you fit it to. But I wait to see if I'm corrected!

[miikae]

Well mine is fitted in the pipe that comes from the water pump.

 

Mike

[baj25]

I've only got the valve on the side of the polo heater, it is in the return line. If you shut that water circuit, you also lose the choke and manifold pre-heat- not sure if yours is the same plumbing, but something to look for. You could always by pass heater and keep water to these. HTH, Brian

[Longboarder]

Flow is out from manifold to heater then back to water pump. This circuit is important for avoiding hotspots in the warmup when the thermostat is closed. Neat trick is to fit a solenoid actuated valve from a fiesta (don't know which year) which allows flow through the matrix or bypass, all at the flick of a switch.

 

Nigel

[fry61]

Ford Fiesta Heater Control Valve -- Mk 4 --1995 to 2001 Part No.7N21-18495-AB

Replaces 96FW18495-BD

98FU18495-AA

98FU18495-AB

98FU18495-AC cost is approx £31 ------- regards Bob.

[Jamiep]

Thanks for the info I'll look out for one of those, I knew somebody on here would know!

[baj25]

One thing I am curious about on this subject, is how much heat comes out of the heater (OK, we have several different types, mines a polo) when the fan is off? The heater inlet on mine is tucked down behind the dash, with nothing to make air go through the heater if the fan is off, and you really know about it when you turn the fan on. Is the toasty feeling on your feet from the transmission tunnel, exhaust, general engine heat rather than the heater? Has anyone ever ducted air from outside to their heater, as I think most tin-tops do? Brian

[Guest peter2b2002]

I used to get a toasted left leg even with the heater flap closed untill I fitted side vents to the bonnet - helps a lot ,though I still get a nice warm draft in the foot wells rather that a red hot gale up my left leg.

peter2b

[fry61]

Sierra heater is around 4kw I believe; I cut half the fan off to reduce size & ducted air in other end from under floor level by gear-box -- note to self --avoid deep puddles.

[baj25]

I know this is an old thread, but this has been on my 'to-do' list for a while. I did a bit more research on this and it seems like these many of these valves are unreliable, and have been the cause of numerous overheating problems for Ford owners. The latest part number is thought to be OK, but earlier ones were dodgy. Might save someone a cooked motor. BTW, these are currently available on fleabay for 15 notes delivered. HTH, Brian

[Guest Alan_builder]

I think the Rover 200 has a manual water "OR" gate, this pipe out or that pipe out from a common input.

 

I my

[agent_zed]

Hi,

i would think a really quick easy cheap solution would just be 2 inline plumbing valves. If you put a pipe between the two hoses you already have with a valve in it (lets call it the bypass valve) and then futher up the pipe that goes into the matrix put another valve (call it heater valve). You can then close the cross valve and open the heater valve for when you want heating allowing the water to flow around the matric. When you don't want heat you can close the heater valve and open the bypass valve causing the water to just circulate back to the engine.

 

You'd have to be careful not to close both valves at the same time but i can't see why this wouldn't work otherwise. You may get a bit of heat back up the open matrix output pipe but i can't think that it would be enough to cause a problem and if it was you could just add another valve to the matix output pipe.

 

 

would be pretty cheap to do just a couple of these http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plumbing/V...0/sd2696/p36879

 

I've also put a radiator bleed valve in at the top of my system to bleed air out so you could add one to the above easily at the same time.

 

hth and makes sense, just a cheaper version of whats been suggested above.

[Guest benham]

Flow is out from manifold to heater then back to water pump. This circuit is important for avoiding hotspots in the warmup when the thermostat is closed. Neat trick is to fit a solenoid actuated valve from a fiesta (don't know which year) which allows flow through the matrix or bypass, all at the flick of a switch.

 

Nigel

mk4/5 so that's 1996-2002, also fitted to similar age Transits and Mondeo's.

 

They fail VERY reguarly though, and you can't easily remove them from scrappers as the inlet tends to just snap off them as soon as they are touched. It's known as a HCV (Heater control valve,) and Ford will relieve you about £30+VAT for one. Second hand one is pretty much a pointless purchase, Intermotor make a decent quality aftermarket one I normally pay about £20+VAT for.

 

Regards,

Andy

[Jamiep]

Thanks for all the info, this is quite an old thread now, I originaly intended to fit ducting to use the heater to heat the car and demist the window but it turns out just having the matrix there pretty much does that anyway. I picked up one of the fiesta hcv's with the latest part number new off fleebay but have not got round to fitting yet. I think its about half way down my A4 list of jobs to do before summer (if we get one).