Help Please!

[Guest tommy2wheeler]

hi!

 

i have a 2b (ill keep this post shorter than the other one im abotu to write) and now i can't get it started again, we had issues with tickover before had a new carb put on, new exhaust, new plugs, loads of petrol, new coil, new modulator. each time its worked for about 20 minutes then died for no reason and now it wont start again. it also seems to blowing the same fuse every time but i cant pin point eh problem.

 

has anyone else experienced reoccuring problems with the idle not being right/dying/just generally not revving right?

 

any help would be gratefully appreciated!

 

many thanks

 

tom

[stevedohc2b]

Sound like fuel starvation is the fuel pump running all the time not just priming.

 

What fues is blowing must be a short or an over load.

 

"You can sometimes use a digital ohmeter if it has enough resolution on the low resistance range to show the resistance going lower or higher as you approach or retreat from a short.

 

To accomplish this, the circuit should be de-energized.

 

You then measure the short-circuit resistance at one end of the shorted pair, then at either a convenient termination or at approximately 1/2 of the length of the circuit. Each time ensuring you've got a very good contact with the conductors, and recording the reading. Then choose to go in one direction or the other to approximately 1/2 of the remaining conductor (i.e. the 1/4 or 3/4 points along the length) and measure again. If the reading goes lower, you're getting closer, if it goes higher, you're moving away from the short. Continue the half-splitting until you either find the short or isolate it to a section of wire.

 

As for a "ground fault", that generally refers to the hot side of a circuit coming in contact with ground. As applied to ground-fault interrupters, however, a ground fault does not need to be a short to trip them, even a small amount of leakage to ground is enough. You will likely have trouble using the ohmmeter technique to isolate a leaky conductor - but you can use it to determine if it's leaky by simply measuring across the two conductors (again with ckt de-energized) - if the ohmmeter is not reading infinity (or O/R, etc), there is likely a leakage path "

 

 

Stephen

[Jez Morton]

Difficult to diagnose something like this on a forum could be lots of things, add your location you will usually get a few volunteers to come and drink your tea they might even fix it.

 

Jez

[Guest marsbar]

Hi does your car start, run for a period the run rough, the stop, then after a long rest start again and run OK but repeat the previous?

If it does this check the temprature of the coil, if it is nearly to hot to touch, then I think the insulation value of the oil has broken down causing all of those symptoms I described, if not I am barking up the wrong tree.

I have a 2b Pinto that did this, when trying to figure out what it was it seemed to be more fuel related than electrical.

[Guest trackerjack]

Ballast resist coils are rated at something like 7-9 volts and only get 12 volts at start up.

If the car has one of these but a constant 12 volt suppy the coil as stated breaks down.

Also check that the ptrol tank is vented because it will pull a vacuum and stop the fuel.

Good luck