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How Do You Remove Scratches From Stainless Steel


Guest MendipWursel

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Guest djs dad

funny enough i was thinking this at the weekend.

in my past life of racing classic bikes i used to flat down any stainless steel used (i had a lovely ss petrol tank) with wet and dry and then polish that up. not as higly polished as the panels on our hoods but more of a flat, dull shine - quite like aluminium in fact.

i have marks on the 3a im rebuilding and im seriously thinking of doing this. would look quite retro i think (may of course totally ruin the look too) lolol.

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Guest MendipWursel

This YouTube video give a few pointer on polishing stainless. Don't be put of by the daft music at the start of the video.

 

Edited by MendipWursel
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Hi,

Had to do a few bits on mine when building as I had a real nasty scratch on the rear wheel arch and side of the bonnet.

I purchased a polishing kit from The polishing shop THE POLISHING SHOPfor about £18. Been worth every penny. Managed to do a pretty good job of getting rid of the scratch's, I have also managed to polish the roll cage, alternator etc etc. Definately would recommend :friends:

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Guest MendipWursel

The Polishing Shop recommended by Terry above certainly has all of the answers for polishing dull stainless steel panels - http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk

Ebay also sells quite a few Polishing Compounds and mobs.

 

I just spoke to The Polishing Shop (Andrew) and this is what I have learnt -

 

1 - Use a 4 inch grinder with a 6 inch mob (a drill is too slow and will be hard work). You will need an M14 adaptor from the Polishing Shop.

2 - Use an open stitch mob with green compound for the main clean and a softer G quality loose mob and pink or white compound for the final finish.

3 - Sisal mobs are the hardest, followed by closed stitch and then open stitch. The open stitch will give you are larger cleaning area and is slightly softer and more appropriate for cleaning stainless.

4 - They recommend a Crystal Glo acrylic polish to protect the final shine. I have always used window cleaners, but they say this gives no protection to the finish.

 

Hope this helps some of you ...............

 

Kevin

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I was always under the impression that once you got scratches.... you were stuffed.

Seems that might not be the case now, especially with that protective polish.

 

This stuff will have to go on my "MOT list. The list that i tell the missus is essential or the car wont pass :spiteful:

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Guest Bob's Babe

When working at pizza hut we used baby oil and elbow grease to remove all scratches from the stainless surfaces......not sure it will help, but it did the job then

 

SUE

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When working at pizza hut we used baby oil and elbow grease to remove all scratches from the stainless surfaces......not sure it will help, but it did the job then

 

SUE

 

This would be a contender

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Robin-Hood-Sub-K-model-/140405828566?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item20b0d6ebd6#ht_500wt_1182

 

OMG :shok:

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Guest pwlcarz

For brushed stainless we use a product called Inoxclean (google it)which chemically removes tarnish, spotting and other general marks. Use either with a cloth or 3M Scotchbrite pads (the finer grade the better). Always rub in the direction of the 'grain', NEVER across it.

 

Surprisingly T-cut also does a pretty good job.

 

However, if you have scratches in mirror finish stainless panels, I'm not aware of anything a homeworker can do that will restore it to 'as new'.

 

Any polishing will show on this surface and may look worse than the scratches.

 

However, if anyone has managed it, happy to acknowledge the fact.

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Guest MendipWursel

I have purchased a load of stuff from the Polishing Shop. I will let you know how successful I am.....

 

I think I might try a bit under the bonnet to start with based on what some of you chaps are saying.

 

Kevin

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From my own experience, it is nigh on impossible to restore original shine, once a panel has been attacked by the mops.

If you have one or two small scratches then it might be doable. Use the softest mop and soap you can, and keep the polishing area as small as possible, don’t let it spread all over a panel and don’t let it get too hot.

 

I stated using a drill but the bearings soon gave up as they are not designed for side pressures. I then switched to a 4” grinder which IMO was way too fast, vibrated incredibly, and put far too much heat into the panel.

 

Personally I would recommend painting, as I have now done, or strategically placed stickers.

 

 

Andy

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Guest MendipWursel

Well I tried out the stuff from the Polishing Shop and had reasonable success.

 

I ended up using the softer G Quality Mop with the Pink compound as this gave the best results, this was less harsh and gives a better shine.

 

I concentrated on one rear wheel arch which was very dull (I have stainless rear wheel acrhes). It did get rid of the dullness and the wheel arch is now much more presentable and shinny. The only thing I would say is the finish it is a bit blotchy, having said that the wheel arch does look much better. I'm not sure if I would want to do this to a large area.

 

I found the angle grinder too fast and the vibration was too much to handle. The drill was better and more controlable.

 

I need some sort of mob to get into the tight corners, maybe this could be used with the faster angle grinder.

 

The Crystal GLO polish they sent me smeared and was typical of other polishes, so not recommended. Window cleaner is best.

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