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Turntables Used For Susp Set Up

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Hi onthe scrounge again ,has any one got a pair of turn tables as used whilst setting caster angles that I could borrow or idealy buy or even information leading to the capture of said articals sensible prices please I don't expect to steal them but alittle of that not so common sense please ,if loaners closer to north notts the better but would travel 100 miles if they are the proper gear. Also while I'm looking a pinto vernier cam wheel steel or alloy also at sensible money. All answers awaited and replied to regards mower man :crazy: :unknw: 8P

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Make your own; each one requires 2 x 250mm square x 20mm M.D.F. & a load of kids marbles. With a router, cut a circular groove in each piece (semicircular in section)fill with marbles remove one to give "ballroom" & bolt together through central hole. Have had a pair under my front wheels since getting to the "rolling chassis" stage & still working fine. :rolleyes:

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Make your own; each one requires 2 x 250mm square x 20mm M.D.F. & a load of kids marbles. With a router, cut a circular groove in each piece (semicircular in section)fill with marbles remove one to give "ballroom" & bolt together through central hole. Have had a pair under my front wheels since getting to the "rolling chassis" stage & still working fine. :rolleyes:

Hoodie improviseation outs again brilliant idea I have agood mate who has a workshop full of w/working gear and astack of well seasoned oak ,will get intouch over the weekend thanksfor the tip mower man :clapping: :crazy: :yahoo: :good: :fool:

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Problem is that will only give you the turn whilst the "proper" ones will float as well as turn to allow for changes in track as the suspension rises and falls. However.. it doesn't take a big modification to that design to incorporate that.

 

I've seen a simpler version of yours made with two pieces of quarter steel. A drill is used to put a tapered hole in the middle (i.e. something like a half-inch drill used to ust put a countersink in the centre of each plate). The two plates are placed together with the countersinks facing each other and a ball bearing in the middle. The countersink's depth is tweaked to just allow the plates to clear each other and a good smear of grease goes between the whole lot. Very effective.

 

For a floating design you need three picees of steel/wood. Two are left flat and are top and bottom. The piece destined for the middle has a six-inch-ish circle cut out of the middle and is then fastened to the base plate. From the cutout you make a four-inch-ish disc and drill a series of holes oround it's outer edge. This sits in the circular hole in the base and ball-bearings go in the holes. Now the top goes on and that top plate can float as well as swivel. To refine it somewhat four springs are fastened to the disc at 90 degrees to each other and to the outer edge of the hole it sits in and these give it a degree of self centring. A one inch hole is drilled in the centre of the disc and a bolt used in the top plate in it's centre to act as a limit and stop the whole thing from sliding sideways.

 

All do-able in wood and marbles but I'd be worried about the marbles embedding themselves in the ralatively soft wood surface and glass maybe shattering. Steel is harder and the sizes we are talking about are offcuts to any large engineering place who are good to get friendly with anyway. Ball bearings can usually be pulled out of old CV joints or similar so again we're looking through a garages scrap bin and giving them beer in exchange.

 

Iain

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Problem is that will only give you the turn whilst the "proper" ones will float as well as turn to allow for changes in track as the suspension rises and falls. However.. it doesn't take a big modification to that design to incorporate that.

 

I've seen a simpler version of yours made with two pieces of quarter steel. A drill is used to put a tapered hole in the middle (i.e. something like a half-inch drill used to ust put a countersink in the centre of each plate). The two plates are placed together with the countersinks facing each other and a ball bearing in the middle. The countersink's depth is tweaked to just allow the plates to clear each other and a good smear of grease goes between the whole lot. Very effective.

 

For a floating design you need three picees of steel/wood. Two are left flat and are top and bottom. The piece destined for the middle has a six-inch-ish circle cut out of the middle and is then fastened to the base plate. From the cutout you make a four-inch-ish disc and drill a series of holes oround it's outer edge. This sits in the circular hole in the base and ball-bearings go in the holes. Now the top goes on and that top plate can float as well as swivel. To refine it somewhat four springs are fastened to the disc at 90 degrees to each other and to the outer edge of the hole it sits in and these give it a degree of self centring. A one inch hole is drilled in the centre of the disc and a bolt used in the top plate in it's centre to act as a limit and stop the whole thing from sliding sideways.

 

All do-able in wood and marbles but I'd be worried about the marbles embedding themselves in the ralatively soft wood surface and glass maybe shattering. Steel is harder and the sizes we are talking about are offcuts to any large engineering place who are good to get friendly with anyway. Ball bearings can usually be pulled out of old CV joints or similar so again we're looking through a garages scrap bin and giving them beer in exchange.

 

Iain

Just goes to show to be areal Hoody you need balls of steel !!!! ,ajoint spec may well be the answer more ideas awaited regards mower man :clapping: :unknw: :good: :shok:

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You pays your money (or marbles) & takes your choice--wood & marbles works for me--marbles & metal definitely not,hard & harder; somethings got to give --most likely the kids marbles. :unsure:

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In the MOT garage this week hanging on the wall they had some 300mm square x 6mm thick plates with some 6mm x 200mm dia gently dished plate to sit on top. Looked cheap and simple, wonder where they got them.

 

Tim

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Hi onthe scrounge again ,has any one got a pair of turn tables as used whilst setting caster angles that I could borrow or idealy buy or even information leading to the capture of said articals sensible prices please I don't expect to steal them but alittle of that not so common sense please ,if loaners closer to north notts the better but would travel 100 miles if they are the proper gear. Also while I'm looking a pinto vernier cam wheel steel or alloy also at sensible money. All answers awaited and replied to regards mower man :crazy: :unknw: 8P

 

I have a pair of the real things you are welcome to borrow. I am in Easton on the western side of Norwich. You can drop me a line at: bob.rowell69@tiscali.co.uk

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Before going to all that trouble, try parking the front wheels on two glossy magazines

(your choice of reading material!!!)

 

The shiny pages slide over one another very easily....may be enough for what you want.

 

HTH Bob

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Actually I almost suggested that - Argos catalogues with the spines cut off work well.

 

Iain

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Try a couple of polly bags under each wheel (Nice thick ones). This works well providing the floor is smooth

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I have a pair of the real things you are welcome to borrow. I am in Easton on the western side of Norwich. You can drop me a line at: bob.rowell69@tiscali.co.uk

Bob thanks for the reply will do alittle more searching but might take you up on your offer later in the year regards mower man :clapping: :good:

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