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Cooling Probs


Guest scrabster

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Guest mower man

Jess obtain a thermostat for a cvh engine as orion it runs a lot lower temp i.e. 81 deg ,fitted one in my 2.1 no prob s runs at a steady 84/85 fan in at 90 3/4 min out again ,this is ticking over on the drive HTH mower man :clapping: :yahoo: :good:

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Guest scrabster

evening all,after reading the replies just now,it seems i may be barking up the wrong tree.im thinking 100 degrees thats boiling up.i havent drove any longer than up to the 100 mark so maybe thats how this set up will work,fan is on a manual switch so have to keep an eye on it in traffic.it didnt boil over at 100 or spit any fluid out of catch tank.it just concerns me that the hotter the under bonnet temp gets the worse the carbs perform and the recent mods ive done were in vain.ive got a digital thermometer so i will check temp of thermostat.im also thinking of reversing the side vents so they will force more air around engine but the hot air has to escape some how.thanks for the replies guys,keep the ideas coming.

regards,jess.

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Hi Jess,

Sorry to hear your getting hot under the collar, put that hammer down! I would just like to add my thoughts for what they are worth. Having read through all the various posts on getting hot and having "ordinary" cars in my time that have got too hot I think the basics need to checked first. Is the thermostat the correct one (opening at too high a temperature), is it working (bowl of hot water from the kettle should see it open), are the radiator, engine galleries or pipes blocked? How close is the fan to the radiator (the closer the better), is the fan cuting in properly, is the fan big enough, is it going the right way (sucking from the front of the car to the engine) is the air entry in to the car to the radiator ducted (if it is then the fan should never kick in if moving at anything above crawling pace)? Is it boiling over or not, is your gauage suggesting its hot when in fact its normal? Are you running too lean, not enough oil? Are there any airlocks in the sytem?

If you are sure that these are all ok then I have run out of ideas! If you have to add scoops and air exit louvres then I think the fundementals aren't covered yet (although the big yelow scoop looks quite "wicked").

HTH

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Guest The Modfather

I agree with Megadodo. Check the fundamentals first.

You could have a hundred air ducts all ramming air in, but you haven't got enough exits for the warm air to escape.

When you are driving, the air is being forced in to every scoop, duct, louvre whatever, but it will only allow air in if the inside air has somewhere else to go, i.e volumetric movement.

You're engine bay is like a funnel. You only have the tunnel for the warm air to go down. Try filling a funnel with water quicker than it can exit, the principle is the same. Air will not compress unless it's inside a chamber of some kind, and seeing as the engine bay is not sealed, the air will remain at normal atmospheric pressure. Therefore, once the bay is full of air, no more will go in unless it has somewhere, or something, to expel the air.

There simply is no point forcing more air in, try ducting it out is my suggestion. Turn your side vents back to how they should be, allowing the air to exit, and try raising the bonnet edge up at the rear (nearest the screen) by an inch.

You could always fit a ducting fan to the side walls and draw the air out?

My car got hot over in Le Mans, and one place it was ducting was up the steering shaft, through the large hole in the bulkhead and directly onto exposed skin. I got burnt by it.

Whilst I'm rebuilding my car, I don't think I'll be using a heater, but I did think about ducting hot air from the bay, through the bulkhead into the old demister tubes, and up the inside of the screen. Just another exit for the hot air, and constantly demisted screen!

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Guest robinj66

... but I did think about ducting hot air from the bay, through the bulkhead into the old demister tubes, and up the inside of the screen. Just another exit for the hot air, and constantly demisted screen!

 

 

That, Sir, is an excellent idea :good:

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Guest scrabster

ok chaps,first thing run with bonnet of,ive already taken ally cowl of as i think its trapping more heat,re positioned duct pipe from forced air under the carbs,now the air through the scoop has a free run to where it wants.

see if that works.erm.....whens it going to stop raining?

thanks for replies,jess.

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Guest chris brown

From what you have said I don’t believe you have a problem. If it hasn’t blown water out of the bottle then it has not got too hot but it is a good idea to duct all the air you can get through the rad and fan as it will try to miss both if there is a gap and take the easy way.

Also are you sure your temp sender is matched to the gauge? If it is a Ford gauge there are several senders. I had my green one brake and could only get a white replacement so now my gauge reads just under boiling instead of half scale at normal running.

 

BTW if anyone has a green sender laying about spare I’ll swap you for a white one

:rofl: :yahoo:

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On a slightly different tack, -- the close fit of the fan to the rad should supply all the air it needs;& the gaps around the rad. supply cool air to that other "radiator" the engine. My thoughts maybe at odds with others (& Chris above) but then that's why we build the **** things ( If it ain't different how can it be a Hood?) :rolleyes:

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  • 1 month later...

Sorry to hijack this post a bit, i have a similar problem...

 

 

Driving car over weekend, it sits in traffic with fan cutting in and out at about 95 deg C, but on open road out doing 50-60mph temp went up to 103deg C.

 

How hot can it get before it boiled over as its pressurised?

 

And what temp should an engine run at when cruising along?

 

No sign of boiling over, I have a catch tank, so am I worrying about nothing?

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Guest mower man

Hi I personally would not be happy with those sort of temps , my 2.1 runs some where between 80/85 fan in at 90out again at 82/3 does take a little while to warm through but has been ok for acouple of years the system is 1 double core RS 2000 rad

2 twin electric fans [pulling]

3 rad is cowled to push air through the matrix

4 bonnet does not fit tight to mono sides only scuttle and nose cone and has std venting on top +side vents and enlarged exhaust hole in side panel

5 81 degree stat with 4mm bleed hole

6 13 lb cap

its a suck and blow system

HTH mower man :good:

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