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0 To 60 Calculator


speedtripledan

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Guest The Modfather

Before I am called Alan, and no, my teddy is firmly in my pram, here I hope is the end to all this. Please read through.

They totaled the front and rear axle weights to get the gross i think.

Now i stand to be corrected, but surely this would be inaccurate for the gross weight? By my logic anyway?? :crazy:

Nick.

Nick is saying what I am saying and may have misunderstood the meaning of gross weight. The question was finding out the "actual physical" vehicle weight for the calculator. What has been said in the first few posts was whether this single axle weighing was the correct way to get the weight of the car as it sits on the road, IT IS NOT. The axle weighing as described works out the mean gross vehicle weight (GVW). That is what the vehicle's total weight capacity is, including carrying weight, passengers, luggage, lubricants etc etc, loaded over two (or more axles) and this gives it's top limit that is permissable on the road.

 

 

Can't be right Daz, if you weighed the car using 4 separate scales,one under each wheel the total of all 4 would be the weight of the car, yes?

Yes, as all the vehicle is being weighed, same as full size weighbridge, so you have agreed to what I was trying to say!!!!

So if you replaced two of the scales with 2 blocks of wood same thickness as scaleswould there be a different reading on the remaining scales,no.

Yes, there would be a difference, see my diagram, it's basic physics of weight transfer!

The only way for your theory to work would be for the car to be much lower at the nose when weighing the front & then much lower at the rear when weighing the tail, -- i.e.the centre of gravity is displaced by the forward or rearward tilt of the vehicle. :unsure:

Have you ever seen a weigh station where the scale allows this? No, because it is not designed for what Nick was asking. Single axle weighing only works out the GVW as above.

 

Sorry daz393: :sorry:

 

The training for weighbridge operator certification refer to axle weighing for gross vehicle weight as "Double-weighing", defined as - the weighing of a load or vehicle in two or more stages. eg where an articulated vehicle cannot fit onto the plate its weight is calculated from the sum of the front and rear sets of axle weights.

 

[DARFC]

 

EXACTLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!I think I may have mis-used the phrase "mean gross weight" earlier in a previous post when I meant the cars actual kerb weight, as the car sits, totally empty, as is what Nick was originally asking, and I was trying to explain. "Double weighing" as described by Stewart's pasted post above, does indeed work out the GVW.

 

So, to ratify what has been said by all: Single axle weighing, weighs the gross vehicle weight (GVW) which is the total permissable weight of said vehicle fully loaded, over however many axles the vehicle has.

Kerb weight (which is what we are trying to establish) is only accurate when the vehicle has all 4 (or more) wheels on a scale, or in Bob's case, on 4 scales AT THE SAME TIME ONLY, and then added together to get a total. Therefore, I decree this whole debate a misunderstanding in the differences of what type of weighing achieves what figures.

 

Nick wants the car's weight so that he can work out what to put in the 0-60 calculator, so he needs either 4 heavy duty bathroom scales or a full size weighbridge, not single axle weighing.

Bob and Stewart: This single axle weighing gives total permissable weight, or GVW, which, as I said above, I may have mis-used. I apologise for my mistake but you must be thick not to work out what it was I was trying to explain! :crazy: :crazy: :crazy: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

I'm sure we'll laugh about it one day?????? :drinks:

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Ignoring the fact that gross weight and kerb weight are different, that we all agree on. Just to clarify that gross is the maximum all up weight allowed by the design for the vehicle plus passengers, fuel and any luggage. The kerb weight is the vehicle's empty weight which CAN be measured by weighing each wheel or axle individually and then added up (provided the vehicle is completely level). Why should a vehicles weight chnage just because its on the ground, blocks or a scale? As ALL the weight bears through the tyres the total weight must the addition of the indvidual weights.

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You can argue all day about which way to weigh your car, but the original point about 0-60 calc is flawed anyway.

According to the link I should have a time of 4.5 seconds with bhp and axle weights, but it doesn't take into account gear and diff ratios, how many gear changes you'll need to make between 0 and 60, wheel and tyre size, loss of traction, skill of the driver etc etc.

Great for a pi**ing contest in the pub, but no good in reality, I know mine wont do 4.5 secs.

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Guest mower man

Just to add a little more I weighed my car on a certified weighbridge first the car as a whole result

804kilo ok I then reversed it to use the windscreen as a datum and wieghed the front end,drove the car forwards to the other end of the bridge carefully lined up the screen and weighed the rear end result=f=416k rear =384k added together =800k the little discrepancy can be ignored ,the figures also show a figure very close to the supposdly correct 50/50 balance for good handling this was with 1/2 tank of fuel and normal touring kit sparewheel etc but with out me +80k I often think that the does handle better when fully loaded than when stripped out but it isnot quite as quick I await comments eagerly

mower man :good: =@

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Guest manglemender

You can try this experiment at home with two sets of bathroom scales.

 

1)Stand on one set and record weight.

2)Stand on the other set and record weight. (Should be the same or this isn't going to work)

3)Stand with one foot on each and sum the values. This should still be the same total measured weight.

 

You can try leaning to one side, this will have the effect of registering more weight on one scale than the other but the sum should still be the same.

 

Nick

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You can argue all day about which way to weigh your car, but the original point about 0-60 calc is flawed anyway.

According to the link I should have a time of 4.5 seconds with bhp and axle weights, but it doesn't take into account gear and diff ratios, how many gear changes you'll need to make between 0 and 60, wheel and tyre size, loss of traction, skill of the driver etc etc.

Great for a pi**ing contest in the pub, but no good in reality, I know mine wont do 4.5 secs.

 

what do you think yours does then ?

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