Ignition Switch Terminals?

[Guest The Modfather]

I have this ignition switch http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/204

 

and as you can see it has 3 terminals. The middle terminal is numbered 30, so I have this as my permanent live feed. The other two are number 15 and 75. The key has 3 positions: off, 1 and 2. Now, here is the problem I have found, both of the terminals have no power in the 1 position, and both HAVE power in position 2.

 

Is the switch faulty, even though it is brand new?

 

Daz

[fry61]

Try feeding 15 & check outputs to 30/75 & similarly try feeding 75 & check outputs to 30/15.

[Guest The Modfather]

I've done this Bob, and it seems that both of the pins have no power until 2nd position.

I will be using a push button starter so don't need a spring return, but do need a switched live that is constant when engine turning over, for the Megajolt and coil pack. So I do need an off, 1 and 2 switch.

 

I'll have another go tomorrow and will write all permitations. I was just hoping that someone could tell me tonight what pin is first position and what is second.

 

Daz

[Guest mikebloomfield]

I can't find any pin outs on this web link. Did they send any?

 

If not it's posible you have it wired backwards. With the 12 volt wire on output 2 you would get what you describe.

 

Try using a multimeter on buzzer. With key in OFF position you should get no buzz between any pin. With key in position 1 you should get a buzz between INPUT and OUTPUT 1, but no buzz from either of these pins to OUTPUT 2. I'm trying to think of a reason if it's necessary to work out which is INPUT and OUTPUT 1, but don't think it matters for this switch.

 

 

Hope this helps.

Mike

[fry61]

Trying to work out on paper I would think that 30 is an output terminal supplied when key in Pos.2 so feed in would be 15 or 75. When key is Pos.1 have you got continuity across 15 -75? Could be totally wrong -- 240/415 volt was my trade.

[RedTrev]

Hi Daz,

I'd expect Terminal 75 at position 1 and both T75 and T15 at position 2.

 

Trev

[Guest The Modfather]

I'll have a better look tomorrow. I noticed it at last knockings before coming in, and didn't give it much time to thoroughly check everything.

 

Daz

[miikae]

After looking at the write up on this switch and seeing as it states off/on not off/on/on, i would suggest that you may well be correct with your findings, one other thought would be with it having a two turns of the key, is the key removable in the second position so as to lock it in the on position i wonder.

I have used this type of switch on many control panels in the past.

 

Mike

[Guest The Modfather]

After looking at the write up on this switch and seeing as it states off/on not off/on/on, i would suggest that you may well be correct with your findings, one other thought would be with it having a two turns of the key, is the key removable in the second position so as to lock it in the on position i wonder.

I have used this type of switch on many control panels in the past.

 

Mike

 

Some good points there Mike. I don't know if the key is removable in the 2nd position, but I will check tonorrow.

 

Thanks for taking the time to ponder this.

 

Daz

[Longboarder]

75 is the Din designation for switched supply to radio, ciggy lighter,(AUX) so you can have some things on without ignition being on. 30 is live from battery, 15 switched live as you know.

You say it is a three position switch. So looks like it is supposed to be;

All isolated pos 0

30 and 75 connected in pos 1

30 and 75 and 15 connected pos 2

But the description in the catalogue is just off/on. So they didn't bother making pos 1 active. (Or it's duff!)

 

Nigel

[megadodo]

If only you had got proper switches in the first place Daz! PS my study floor appears to be scattered with A4 wiring diagrams!

[Guest The Modfather]

Ok, so in order for my coil pack and megajolt to have an unaffected supply on start up, will this switch be ok?

 

As stated I am having a starter button as I did before, so if I am right, everything will come off from the pin 15 (coil pack/megajolt/starter button) but when cranking will this effect the supply to the pack and jolt?

 

I will have the white and red (starter solenoid exciter) wire coming from the ignition to the push button and then down to the starter.

 

Or, will it be best to get a better ignition switch? I have looked on SVC, CBS, AES but they all seem to be the same type of cheap £16.00 switch, unless you have one with like 5 positions!

 

Daz

[megadodo]

Switch will be fine, all you are doing is activating the starter with a push button while the ignition switch is on. Just make sure the feed to the starer switch comes from the ignition switch, unless you want to be able to turn the engine over without it starting?

[Guest The Modfather]

Switch will be fine, all you are doing is activating the starter with a push button while the ignition switch is on. Just make sure the feed to the starer switch comes from the ignition switch, unless you want to be able to turn the engine over without it starting?

 

Thought so, thanks Malcolm. My starter used to turn over without ignition on before, so they obviously had wired it up wrong before.

 

Thanks

 

Daz