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2b - Pinto To Duratec Conversion


Robbie 2B

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All

 

Firstly, don't call me surely!

 

If you have followed my previous posts; 'Duratec Wanted' and 'Replacement Engine' you will gather what this post is about.

 

Having got the Pinto out (thanks to Stephen Wright's hoist) and tried the Duratec, bell housing and Type 9 gearbox in its place, there appears to be a number of anomalies which need to be resolved. If anyone has done this conversion can they provide any guidance and part numbers on or for the following:

 

i/ Is there an alternative solid flywheel to the Mondeo's dual mass one?

ii/ The Rally Design bell housing uses a hydraulic clutch. The guidance from the Lolocost site to obtain a release bearing actuator from an early 2.5 litre Mondeo provide wrong as it does not fit over the input shaft casing (33.6 mm dia) on the Type 9 gearbox. Does anyone known which is the correct release bearing actuator to use?

iii/ It would appear that the engine will sit forward of the Pinto's location and the prop shaft will need extending by about 110 mm. Is this the case with other conversions?

iv/ Has anyone fabricated or bought engine supports for a Duretec in a 2B?

 

Sorry to bother you all but hopefully someone will know. If not, then this may be of use to other members who are considering this conversion in the future.

 

Many thanks

 

Robbie

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This fit has been done by Locistbuilders, Flak Monkey, he has a large blog/web site.

110mm is a long way forward, 5 1/2" is this because of a wider bell housing?

Mountings can be fabricated easily using thick plate and box section but ther are some mounting point issues.

Caterham fit this engine always worth looking on there Forum but they mostly buys there chassis with all mountings fitted..

Turbosports forum will also have good information on Duratec fitting to old Fords.

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Flywheel from Fiesta ST150 Duratec 2.0 engine is solid and replaces the dual mass abortion from the mondeo/focus.

I moved my zetec engine 50mm forward so that I could use the zetec thermostat housing rather than a water rail. The changes to gearbox mount and a new prop were cheaper than a rail and the plumbing works more efficiently IMO. Also meant that I have a better quality prop with exactly the amount of engagement in the gearbox that I wanted.

Fabricated mounts for the zetec was easy. Made plates for the engine and rubber mounts. Sat engine in place on blocks. Joined plates with sturdy bar and the welder.

 

Nigel

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Thanks for the replies.

 

I have been following Flak Monkey's build diary and his previous posts on the Lolocost forum - all good information but it would appear that he has access to complete workshop faclites!!

 

Current problem is were to get hold of the correct diameter solid flywheel (298 mm o/d). As far as I can work out, the flywheel from a Focus ST 150 is slightly smaller and a different starter motor would be required. Flak Monkey's cure is to mill a couple of mm off the starter motor housing. Its an option but would take a long time with just a file.

 

I am hoping to do the same with the thermostat housing on the Duratec. The concept is to try and keep the engine as standard as possible and to reuse the Ford ECU. Yes I did get a chipped key and induction loop with the ECU.

 

Any more comments gladly received.

 

Robbie

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  • 4 months later...
Guest chooch

Hi Robbie,

 

Can you direct me to more details for the 2b Duratec retrofit?

I've just put a deposit on a 2b, witht the intention of fitting a Duratec engine. I've always wanted to build a kit car, but don't really have the time, so thought I'd go for something already built and put in the engine of my choice. I'm looking for 200+bhp & don't think the current pinto is up to the job. I may have been too thrifty & should have gone direct for zero, which may be better suited as it's set up for a zetec....

 

Cheers,

Ewan

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Chooch

 

What I thought would take 3 months tops is still ongoing, abet with light at the end of the tunnel! One plus point is that the Duratec will fit into a 2B without any modifications or welding to the chassis. The minus are far greater with new bell housing, propshaft, engine mounts, sump, flywheel, clutch, etc. being required. I have just finished doing the modifications to the RH fuel tank to allow the fitting of a Mondeo fuel pump complete with regulator and 'swirl pot'.

 

I have tried to keep to the Robin Hood philosophy of using as much of the Mondeo as possible, so have reused the engine wiring loom, ECU, inlet manifold and ancillaries such as alternator.

 

Once I have got the thing going and back on the road I may try and do a bit of a build diary for the magazine if there is interest.

 

As for power, there are rose tinted glasses figures and realistic figures:

 

Best case: Duratec original output 145 BHP; removal of catalyst - plus 10; straight through 4 to 1 exhaust - plus 10; high flow air filter - plus 5; removal of power steering pump and A/C compressor - plus 10. TOTAL = 180 BHP

Reaalistic: Duratec with 76,000 miles 125 BHP; removal of catalyst - plus 5; straight through 4 to 1 exhaust - plus 5; high flow air filter - 0; removal of power steering and A/C compressor - 0. TOTAL 135 BHP

 

Will post further details once it is running - hopefully by end of the month.

 

Robbie

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Guest Chutney

I just got my insurance renewal form through, which means my quick zetec/pinto swap is now in month 12. To be fair I have probably only spent about 5 days on the car. Probably 50 on here and another 30 on the interweb

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Guest mower man

Torque is for real men. And that of course only means two things- v8 or supercharger. Or both if funds and space allows.

Sorry mate real torque is steam or electricty havent seen a steam hood yet !!mower man 8P

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Guest Chutney

Yes!! A steam powered zero- love it! Not exactly sporty though, and there's not enough leg room for shovelling.

 

 

Seriously though, any old school engineers up for a challenge?

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