Rally Design Quick Shift

[Thrashed]

Hi all

 

Bought a rally design competition quick shift at the Stoneleigh show. Got the written instructions but for all the sense they make it might as well be japanesse.

 

Has anyone fitted one and have any pictures as I have no idea what they mean by gear lever yoke? Ball and ball housing

 

Any help with pictures would be great.

 

Thanks

 

Steve

[Guest gdc]

i have one and fitted to my zero , prob is i cant get 2nd gear at speed .

so i ant the best to ask .i may have got it wrong .

 

graham

[Bob Tucker]

I assume you got the following inst.

I fitted one some while back

Sorry no pictures. It makes more sense if you have already removed the gear lever.

Best of luck, Bob

 

Remove the existing gear lever, 3 bolts into the top of the gearbox, & lift it out.

The yoke is at the bottom of the gearlever, two fingers? that fit over the selector.

The ball is the spherical black plastic "ball" cant describe it any other way? just above the yoke.

It fits into a housing so the gear lever can swivel in all directions. Mark them so they all go back the same way.

The gear lever is in 2 parts, with a larger tubular housing part way down. You dont need the top part, so hack the rubber bush apart to get to the lower part. Then carefully follow the instructions from step 4 onwards.

 

Rally Design competition quick shift fitting instructions

 

1. Remove gearlever from vehicle

2. Mark gearlever yoke, gearlever ball and ball housing with a centre dot such that the orientation of these components can be repeated after dis-assembly

3. Remove gearlever from shaft. The Isopac bush within the gearbox is particularly difficult to remove from the shaft and it is often necessary to destroy the gearlever but a new one is supplied with the kit.

4. Grind or file off the swages immediately above the flat washer retaining the spring rubber….remove all burrs.

5. Remove flat washer, rubber, top cup, lower cup and ball holding assembly, noting carefully the order and orientation of assembly.

6. Tap off ball from shaft.

7. Assemble mild steel spacer over shaft splines. Note the internal chamfer allows clearance of corner radius adjacent to fork.

8. Tap ball onto shaft checking previously marked centre dot orientation. Ensure sleeve is seated fully into counterbore of ball, leaving approx. 3/8” of sleeve visible.

9. Assemble shaft/ball assembly to ball housing, checking dot orientation.

10. Assemble lower cup, top cup and spring rubber.

11. Assemble white nylon spacer to retain spring rubber.

12. Assemble new gearlever ensuring that shaft is pressed fully up into the lever.

N.B. It is advisable to grind a flat on the original gearlever where the grub screw locks on to it, to prevent it loosening or twisting.

13. Lock up the grub screw to retain. Apply threadlock after completion and testing.

14. Reassemble completed lever to vehicle, including the spacer plate, retain 3 M8 flange heads supplied.

15. Depress clutch and check all the gears before driving the vehicle, in particular ensure depression of lever is necessary to clear gate to engage reverse.

[Bob Tucker]

Selecting second gear is often because the gearlever fouls the cutout in the tunnel top.#

I had to enlarge the cutout quite a bit.

[Thrashed]

I assume you got the following inst.

I fitted one some while back

Sorry no pictures. It makes more sense if you have already removed the gear lever.

Best of luck, Bob

 

Remove the existing gear lever, 3 bolts into the top of the gearbox, & lift it out.

The yoke is at the bottom of the gearlever, two fingers? that fit over the selector.

The ball is the spherical black plastic "ball" cant describe it any other way? just above the yoke.

It fits into a housing so the gear lever can swivel in all directions. Mark them so they all go back the same way.

The gear lever is in 2 parts, with a larger tubular housing part way down. You dont need the top part, so hack the rubber bush apart to get to the lower part. Then carefully follow the instructions from step 4 onwards.

 

Rally Design competition quick shift fitting instructions

 

1. Remove gearlever from vehicle

2. Mark gearlever yoke, gearlever ball and ball housing with a centre dot such that the orientation of these components can be repeated after dis-assembly

3. Remove gearlever from shaft. The Isopac bush within the gearbox is particularly difficult to remove from the shaft and it is often necessary to destroy the gearlever but a new one is supplied with the kit.

4. Grind or file off the swages immediately above the flat washer retaining the spring rubber….remove all burrs.

5. Remove flat washer, rubber, top cup, lower cup and ball holding assembly, noting carefully the order and orientation of assembly.

6. Tap off ball from shaft.

7. Assemble mild steel spacer over shaft splines. Note the internal chamfer allows clearance of corner radius adjacent to fork.

8. Tap ball onto shaft checking previously marked centre dot orientation. Ensure sleeve is seated fully into counterbore of ball, leaving approx. 3/8” of sleeve visible.

9. Assemble shaft/ball assembly to ball housing, checking dot orientation.

10. Assemble lower cup, top cup and spring rubber.

11. Assemble white nylon spacer to retain spring rubber.

12. Assemble new gearlever ensuring that shaft is pressed fully up into the lever.

N.B. It is advisable to grind a flat on the original gearlever where the grub screw locks on to it, to prevent it loosening or twisting.

13. Lock up the grub screw to retain. Apply threadlock after completion and testing.

14. Reassemble completed lever to vehicle, including the spacer plate, retain 3 M8 flange heads supplied.

15. Depress clutch and check all the gears before driving the vehicle, in particular ensure depression of lever is necessary to clear gate to engage reverse.

 

Hi Bob

 

Yep these are the instructions but just make no sense to me. I have no idea what the parts are they are talking about.

 

Have you got any pictures of how to do this?

 

Cheers

 

Steve

[Thrashed]

i have one and fitted to my zero , prob is i cant get 2nd gear at speed .

so i ant the best to ask .i may have got it wrong .

 

graham

 

Hi Graham

 

Have you got any pictures of how your went together?

 

Thanks

[Guest gdc]

sorry no pics ,

bob re the tunnel top you may be right . i havnt made a huge hole so that

may be the prob when the engine and box are strained against the stops as it were .

graham

prob going to detling tomorrow so a bit of a chance to try things out .

[Guest peter2b2002]

should have saved your money and used the hoodie method, shown on this site some where, cost about 25p +1/2 hour to do

peter2b

[Guest joni]

Has anyone got the link to the hoodie method? was just about to buy a kit from burton power...

[Bob Tucker]

here...

[Guest joni]

Thanks Bob, late night, or are you in Australia?

[Guest gixerboy600]

If it's on the MT75 gearbox, why did you not buy the one from GBS £157.00 and a doddle to fit, works really well too and looks the nuts!!!!!

 

Cheers

 

John

[Thrashed]

If it's on the MT75 gearbox, why did you not buy the one from GBS £157.00 and a doddle to fit, works really well too and looks the nuts!!!!!

 

Cheers

 

John

 

Mine is a type 9 and I could buy 3 of the Rose joined quick shift for that price from Rally Design. Mine only cost me £10 at Stoneleigh. Just need to know how it goes together.

 

Thanks for the thought.

[Guest davidm]

I'd like a GBS MT75 quickshift as well - just don't like the price! Anybody know of a way to do it for less?

[Guest Ian & Carole]

I'd like a GBS MT75 quickshift as well - just don't like the price! Anybody know of a way to do it for less?

 

Look five post up and there is a link to the "HOODIE" method.(#10)