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Guest danny_samb

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Guest danny_samb

Hi all, I'm stumped when the engine is not running press the clutch and can get all gears easy, fire the engine up and struggle to get reverse, 1st and 2nd really have to persuade it into gear, it's a pinto engine with sierra running gear, it used to be fine only just started doing it, and the car has hardly moved as not tested yet only few feet forwards and backwards

Thanks

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Guest Peter Kelly

Hi all, I'm stumped when the engine is not running press the clutch and can get all gears easy, fire the engine up and struggle to get reverse, 1st and 2nd really have to persuade it into gear, it's a pinto engine with sierra running gear, it used to be fine only just started doing it, and the car has hardly moved as not tested yet only few feet forwards and backwards

Thanks

It sounds like the clutch is not disengaging completely when the pedal is depressed.Take a little more slack out of the cable.

Peter

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Guest chris brown

If you are using the Sierra pedal box then this is not so unusual as the take up is at about the max try putting a strip of material (ally is good) between the cable and the quadrant easy to do and it does help. see photo

post-746-0-30498100-1307373399_thumb.jpg

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Guest red-col

we had the same problem when we put ours together and tried it for the first time.

 

We ended up putting in a new clutch as we did not replace this when the engine was out of the car and it has been fine since then.

 

Just wish we had replaced the clutch when we had the engine out... the car was running fine before we stripped it out of the sierra so had no reason to think that the clutch wouldnt work when we fitted it in the kit but sods law it should stop working once we had fitted it in the car.

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You can use a tube welded to the pedal box to extend the outer cable.

Use the pawl mod as Chris described.

If all this does not cure the problem try releasing the bellhousing bolts one at a time and putting 2mm washers between engine and bell housing, this cured a gearbox input shaft spigot jamming in the spigot bearing

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Guest danny_samb

So get a strip of ally and bend it around the quadrant so the cable does not go in the quadrant groove, and yes it is the sierra pedal box

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just as an idea have a look at the level of the clutch pedal when not depressed and compare to the brake pedal

 

they should be in line...

 

if not, there is a metal bracket just behind the pedal that can be bent in / out to get the pedal in line.

 

from there you should be able to get the tension on the cable using the clutch pawl.

 

if still having probems, try swapping the quadrant for a one with a larger radius. i think that the NW guys have the part numbers. if not try gladstone motor spares who have helped me out in finding one with a larger quadrant.

 

HTH

 

cheers

 

Chris

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  • 4 weeks later...
Guest tez_hall

I had a similar problem.

My 2B has been off the road for a couple years but always had issues with reverse as the engine warmed up

Last year i fitted the longer cosworth clutch cable and it was the same.

 

yesterday on the way to the mot everything started fine for the first couple of miles then gear changes became harder and eventually i couldnt get it into gear, was an interesting trip back in rush hour.

 

after a bit of messing around i found that doing the various mods as described on this thread did not help as when you pull the pedal towards you (i.e put your foot under the pedal and pull when sitting in the seat) it will release the ratchet and the auto ajuster will settle into a position that results in me not being able to change gears.

 

I could force the gear changes to work by pressing the clutch in, holding the plastic ratchet thing and letting the pedal move back up, the ratchet would click a couple of times essentailly taking more slack out of the clutch cable. it then worked ok

 

The problem was when taking your foot of the clutch sometimes it would hit the ratchet release and i would be unable to change gear.

 

the only solution i found was to put a bit of metal in place to prevent the clutch from hitting this release (a small bit of betal that sticks up into the ratchet and releases it when you pull the pedal forward)

 

this seems to have fixed the problem.

 

however i am not happy as the solution is a bit of a bodge.

 

does anyone know why gear changes would get harder as the car warmed up? cable stretch? or something in the clutch or gear box?

it was fine when cold...

 

I need to do a proper test tos ee if my solution is good for both cold and hot running... but im not happy that the cause isnt just a too long clutch cable that isnt suited to the clutch pedal auto adjuster (maybe the springs on it are a bit knackered so its not setting correctly)

 

any more clues would be much appretiated.

 

Tez

Edited by tez_hall
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  • 3 weeks later...
Guest neal@cmtelecom.info

I have the exact same issue with the stupid clutch pedal design the clutch will stop working if you accidentally touch the back of the pedal or come of the clutch to hard it will loose tension on the cable and then you have no clutch to say the least

 

im looking into a solution for this as the ratchet idea is just not up to standard.

 

im not sure if anyone has done a mod on the pedal but im looking into ideas im thinking of taking the ratchet away and just having the cable attach direct to the top of the pedal

 

if anyone has ideas let me know or i will post when ive got something that works

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Those who are having problems with the ratchet mechanism need to lengthen the cable outer. Add some tube between the end of the outer and the piece of tube sticking out of the pedal box. As an experiment lift the pedal to release it and then grab hold of the outer and pull it away from the bulkhead/pedal-box. If there's any slack then there's your problem. You can experiment with some wooden spacers with a slot cut in them wide enough to clear the cable inner. Drop these over the bit of cable that you expose when the ratchet is released and you pull the outer away from the pedal-box. Once you've got the outer tight with just a couple of clicks on the ratchet make a proper spacer the same length as your lumps of wood.

 

The ratchet mechanism works just fine when the cable length is correct.

 

Iain

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Those who are having problems with the ratchet mechanism need to lengthen the cable outer. Add some tube between the end of the outer and the piece of tube sticking out of the pedal box. As an experiment lift the pedal to release it and then grab hold of the outer and pull it away from the bulkhead/pedal-box. If there's any slack then there's your problem. You can experiment with some wooden spacers with a slot cut in them wide enough to clear the cable inner. Drop these over the bit of cable that you expose when the ratchet is released and you pull the outer away from the pedal-box. Once you've got the outer tight with just a couple of clicks on the ratchet make a proper spacer the same length as your lumps of wood.

 

The ratchet mechanism works just fine when the cable length is correct.

 

Iain

 

 

I have to agree with this one, fitted a 4X4 cable for the length and then found the outer was too long, made up a simple adjustable spacer with some conduit couplings, bushes & a locking ring.

20mm bush received the plastic sleeve nicely, wound the bush out until slack was gone & locked off with a locking ring simples.

 

 

 

Tom Hayden

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Guest neal@cmtelecom.info

i have tried the spacer idea as was shown this from another member have also tried a cortina adjustable clutch as this was mentioned also

 

both have still managed to get slack if the pedel releases on the ratchet

 

you can take the slack out in the inner cable by extending the outer but if the ratchet then goes loose it will not pull tight on the inner again sorry.gif

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