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Decision Made Duratec V6


Guest ianjenn

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  • 5 months later...
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A friend has one of these engines in a Morgan that he races....I help out the team he races with at the Silverstone 6 hour race, & so far it has been very quick & reliable....but he has almost certainly had the engine blueprinted by one of the engine specialists....cost has never been an issue for him!!!

Your gearbox is stickered Road & Race transmissions...they are just down the road from me...I plan on visiting tomorrow to see about getting an LSD fitted into my diff....I'll ask about the gearoil while Im there.

My gearbox came from BGH, they recommend any GL4 gearbox oil...they sold me COMMA oil which seems to be working well.

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  • 1 month later...
Guest Retenski

So after playing about with a pinto, blacktop, st170, supercharger and nitrous it is time for a new project for the winter. After much deliberation and research I've decided to go for the duratec V6 3.0l from a jag s-type. On paper it is the perfect engine for a kit car, light powerful, torque-y, reasonably priced etc. Has an all aluminium block and 240bhp out of the box. Modern v8's are just not going to fit (lexus and audi) and a rover v8 just strikes me as a backward step. I also considered the alfa v6 (I admit it looks stunning) but this just can't match the performance of the duratec

 

So first things first is purchase a suitable v6 and voila arrived yesterday

 

link to pictures, I will continue to update

 

So far I have striped off all ancillaries, switched the sump to a jaguar x-type (+oil pickup) as this is a much better shape than the s-type sump. Slight snag is that the left hand engine mount was missing but this is hopefully getting posted out to me.

 

From my first trial lowering into the 2b it looks promising.

 

further updates to follow soon

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Guest Retenski

Hi we need to talk!!!

I am also going down the manual 3.0 Jag S type V6 duratec route, donner cars are about a grand max.

If you sell the leftovers panels etc, I figure on getting a free powerplant and gearbox.

 

WHAT IS IT GOING IN well a rust free Mk1 Capri, found in Spain, no rust anywhere, turrets, spring hangers, floor pan, inner seals, top of pillars, scuttle,

After bare metalling key areas, the rear arch lips are a little wafery, so will be cut and replaced, that is it no other nasty surprises.

 

The shell will also be strengthened, invisibly where possible around inner wings, turrets, chassis rail to bulkhead, and triangulation boxing of the front welded cross member( not the bolt on engine supprt) to the chassis rails

 

It is factory red, original but dulled, I love sebring red/ orange but undecided

 

Bought the car last week, decided on the engine before finding this post.

 

Trying to source some decent headers for the 3.0 duratec, going in a 1969 so no cat, almost freeflow exhaust.

 

Also toying with the idea of sticking carbs on top, but have yet to find a manifold (although I have found a kit for 6 fi throttle boddies, so thats a start. One thing for sure the original 3.0 power bulge bonnet will not be molested

 

 

Watch this space

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Guest ianjenn

Hi we need to talk!!!

I am also going down the manual 3.0 Jag S type V6 duratec route, donner cars are about a grand max.

If you sell the leftovers panels etc, I figure on getting a free powerplant and gearbox.

 

WHAT IS IT GOING IN well a rust free Mk1 Capri, found in Spain, no rust anywhere, turrets, spring hangers, floor pan, inner seals, top of pillars, scuttle,

After bare metalling key areas, the rear arch lips are a little wafery, so will be cut and replaced, that is it no other nasty surprises.

 

The shell will also be strengthened, invisibly where possible around inner wings, turrets, chassis rail to bulkhead, and triangulation boxing of the front welded cross member( not the bolt on engine supprt) to the chassis rails

 

It is factory red, original but dulled, I love sebring red/ orange but undecided

 

Bought the car last week, decided on the engine before finding this post.

 

Trying to source some decent headers for the 3.0 duratec, going in a 1969 so no cat, almost freeflow exhaust.

 

Also toying with the idea of sticking carbs on top, but have yet to find a manifold (although I have found a kit for 6 fi throttle boddies, so thats a start. One thing for sure the original 3.0 power bulge bonnet will not be molested

 

 

Watch this space

If you need to keep the intake compact the best thing would be to stick with injection and fit the st200 upper intake manifold. It is very compact. You would just need to make a spacer between the lower manifold. That will be much lower than carbs

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Hi

I can't post in the for sale section, but as a past hoody and area sec I hope you will forgive me taking this liberty.

 

My son has a Mondeo ST200 looking for a new home. The engine is fine but the alternator is U/S. He doesn't want much for it and if I

 

still had dear 'old smokey' I'd be tempted to put the V6 in it.

 

email me if you want to know more, and if Matt or the mods pull this message for breaking the rules, then I apologise in advance.

 

Happy New Year to you all,

 

John

Edited by john
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  • 3 months later...
  • 1 year later...
Guest Mark Stanley

Hi I am now starting this engine change on my RH 2B , did the st220 inlet manifold fit onto the jag engine? Above you mention about a spacer?

 

Does the st220 intake bring the height of the engine down by much? I was thinking st220 throttle body with cable throttle and I'm guessing it will also have a throttle position sensor on it which the ecu will require to run the engine and fit it to the jag intake manifold. However the engine is looking to tall and I will need to lift the bonnet shell 60mm ish unless the st220 brings the Hight down?

 

Any info will be very helpful

 

Mark

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Guest ianjenn

St150 fits, is small but needs about a 20mm spacer, this is the one the lotus esprit boys use. St220 fits straight on, is much smaller than the standard s type and the one I used

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest ianjenn

Took the 2b for its MOT today at the garage I always use. Normally I stay and do all the sitting in the car bits. But today the wife wanted to go shopping, so I dropped the car off at the garage and said I would be back in a few hours.

 

On returning, there was a gaggle of mechanics stood around the car which was still up on the ramps. I thought they must be admiring my handiwork, then they parted and I noticed a bucket underneath the engine catching something. Oh no I said, is it leaking. Then the reality dawned, they had driven it with a bit to much enthusiasm on to the brake rollers. It had bottomed out and cracked the sump. Bugger. So it's still at the garage and I had to walk home!!

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The dozey buggers hope they have it sorted soon Ian.. not sire which would have been cheaper option though. Leaving wife alone shopping or leaving car alone with those at mot ?

 

Mitch

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Guest Mark Stanley

No way, Will that be a engine out job to remove the sump?

 

Do you know of any conversion kits to a solid fly wheel for the jaguar s type 3.0 engine to the jaguar getrag gear box, Or do you have to build your own like yours.

 

My dual mass flywheel has had better days along with the rest of the clutch parts. for a clutch kit for a 2001 X reg engine the price is coming out to around £1000 yet on ebay after 2003 cars full kit cost £550.

 

Will the start ring off the dual mass jag fly wheel fit a mk2 mondeo 2.5 v6 solid fly wheel. The fly wheel fixing holes look the same just not sure on the size of the flywheel.

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