Safe Jacking Point On Exmo?

[Guest smash]

Where's best to jack the EXMO? Can't actually get my trolley jack under the wishbones at the back!

 

Thanks in advance

[richardm6994]

On the front, it's under the suspension buttress.

 

At the rear, I use a point somewhere between the subframe mounting point and the outside of the car. It is a bit of a bugger at the rear

[Guest Mr_Frosty]

For the rear why not just under the diff?

 

Get both wheels off the ground with that.

[Jamiep]

at the front i use the centre weld point of the suspension top fabrication, at the back i use the diff, i have tried the front mounting point of the rear subframe but the trolley jack dragged the car sideways and lifted front and rear wheels. Looked like it was trying to twist the car.

Not sure how low your car is but i have to drive onto to strips of wood to lift it an inch to get the trolly jack under the diff.

[Guest smash]

Yep - it's low. OK so it's safe to jack on the diff - that makes life easier. Should I use a bit of wood to protect the casing?

 

Had a *bleep* 6 hours in the rear wheel arches sorting out bodged brake light wiring - the car has two brake light switches - one brake fluid pressure switch and one mechanical switch in parallel on the brake pedal itself which appears to have been fitted soley to supply the driver side brake light!!! Madness!!!!! Now just running off the mechanical switch and disconnected the pressure one as it needed quite a shove on the pedal before the lights came on - now a slight movement = bright brake lights Still got to fit horn (it's never had one!) and put full screen back on for trip to Le Mans Classic

[Guest Mr_Frosty]

Yeah I put a small bit of wood between jack and diff just to be safer also spreads load.

 

On the front anywhere under where the suspension components join to the body are going to be strong.

Hint if you still can't get jack under the front suspension just get someone to lift the car slightly.

 

ps Sounds like a nightmare of wiring. How is it that whenever someone else has done it it is always really confusing and never makes sense. Who does this?

[Dave Ed]

i've got some old wood from a kitchen work top that i drive onto first, from there i use a good block of wood underneath the buttresses to spread the load at the front.

On the rear i raise by the diff with a small block of wood and use a long bit of wood accross the whole rear which i then put axle stands under. This stops any twisting of the chassis.

where i have bolts on the underside, i've drilled the wood so it fits and reduces slippage.

 

wiring is my next project, amongst others.

 

Dave

[Tickover]

would these jacking points be the same for the S3a?

[Sparepart]

All the comments on rear would be the same. Car on level, to just get a rear wheel off on one side use a scissor jack longways and thin piece of protective ply wood as close to the hub end of the trailing arm as you can get. Wheel will soon come up enough to remove, suspension is still compressed. To get both rear wheels up, use a small trolly jack under the differential with again ply wood to protect the casing. If you use a fixed lifting jack here then dont prevent the front wheels from from moving back, otherwise the jack might start to tilt. This takes a longer lift because the suspension has to travel fully down before the wheels lift, and I think a little postive camber develops. On the Exmo you have to be careful because the original design just used some nylon rope to stop the trailing arms reaching a point where they foul the static "yolk" and the springs pop out. If you have coilovers then I assume your car will rely on the full extension travel stop of the shock absorbers to prevent a similar thing happening. Depending on your jack you might need to drive the rear up on some strips of wood to get enogh clearance under the diff. In this position the car will not really be safe to do anything really because its like a wobbly triangle. So to make it safe I do what is described above, and use a piece of 2x4 wider than the body and place it just forward of the rear subframe, just in front of the thin piece of SS that sticks vertically down. I then put axle stands under each end of the wood.  As for the front then I don't know for a series 3, probably one wheel up for a wheel change would be somewhere like at the inner end of the radius arm.