A Lot Of Questions About The Zero Gt - Zetec .... :)

[Guest J-Bond]

Hi all...

 

First of all... My engine started like two weeks ago.... And the last bits from GBS arrived to my house...

 

So we are right now in the last part of the building.... ( I hope )

 

----- I sent this same mail to GBS but some answers aren't complete to me ----

 

First. The oils and lubricants

 

The engine ( Zetec 2.0 from GBS ) with the raceline sump.

 

How many oil use..?? ( in liters???)

 

The gearbox MT75 How many oil use.?????

 

Which oil..???? The kit came with ATF fluid.... Works..??? Or better another..???

 

 

 

The differential that came with the kit

 

With kind of oil use and how many litters???   Some additive is needed???

 

The coolant....   How many liters do the system..??? With the raceline kit..???

 

The ideal or optimun temperature of work of the engine is..????  ( to set the fan in the ECU..??? )

 

Ideal air fuel mix??? ( I'm using an Innovate MTX wide band sensor ) ( I know this is complicated... But an ideal to set in some critic points..??? )

 

I'm using an autometer pyrometer, and I been thinking in using in the cilinder 3...   Do you know the ideal distance between the head and the sensor... And the ideal temperature..?? ( to set te ignition point)

 

 

I will use a heat protector tape (asbestos) for the exhaust manifold inside of the engine bay...

 

In the ignition.. How many degrees do you use at the critical points..????

 

How many revs..??? To set the rev cut in the ecu..??? I'm stock internals..

 

 

I'm using a volumetric efficiency mapping...

 

I change the emerald ECU ( burned... )(want pictures..????) for a Haltech platinum Sprint 500 with MAP sensor... (i use this one ... Like a secondary map sensor... For the atmospheric pressure) and another one (GM Corsa Swing MAP sensor, to know the manifold pressure) And I use the TPS on secondary.....

 

I connected the crank(trigger) and cam (home)position sensors (36-1+1) and set in sequential injection and DIS 2 ignition with missed spark system.. ) ( Ford Zetec Original coils and injector )

 

I use a vacuum from the intake manifold to the map sensor AND to the fuel pressure.

 

I got the AT Throttle Bodies... With I guess te original Zetec Injector..

 

Do you know the max flow of the injectors???? At which pressure in the rail???)

 

 

Which sparks do you recommend for the Zetec??? And which gap????

 

The donnor is a Ford Sierra.. Right??? Year???  Specific model..???

 

 

Questions about the Zetec..from GBS

 

Is from a focus..??? Mondeo??? Year??? I guess is a Zetec 2.0 black top..

 

Is the same than the Zetec-R..??? Or this is a different engine..???

 

 

With my setup.. How many horse powers I could produce???  At the flywheel and to the wheels..???

 

And...

 

How to install the speed sensor of the smiths gauges...

 

I tested it with the electric drill... This one got 3 holes... I need to drill holes in the plate that connect the propshaft to the diff..???

 

Could some one post detailed pics of the installation..??? Please..???

 

And could some one post pics of the installation o the rear wheel arches..??? The car is on the table and the wheels in the air... So I don't know the the height of the arches to not have problems with he wheels...

 

And... About the brakes...

 

How to bleed the rear calipers..??? The bleeders are to the ground... And the level is lower that the hose...

 

I removed the calipers with the disc in the right position and turned in the air... ( a super comfortable position for me.. Yeah right!!)

 

An I bleed it... But I guess I still got air in the system... How did you do ..???

 

My kit is a 2012 Zero GT..

 

Kind regards.

Alvaro

 

Soon... Pics of the build...

 

[knights_templar]

Hi

 

will try and answer the above, if I miss anything please ask again

 

here goes

 

engine oil. good quality 5w/30 same as Ford recommend for the UK focus

 

instructions for calibration of oil dip stick come with the sump, but I find them as clear as mud. basicly after fitting a dry sump you fill it with 5ltr of oil, dip the level, where the oil comes to is your Max oil mark. In practice the GBS dip stick is about right as is, just keep the level between the Max and Min marks. fill to mid way with engine cold.

 

MT75 uses very thin oil, oil usually states it is for that gearbox, but I've heard its ATF. but I can't be certain

gearbox has a level bung on the left of the box that left of vehicle sitting inside. just fill till it comes out, let it drain and refit the bung

 

diff uses 80/90 hypoid oil

like the gearbox there is a level bung in the backplate, fill up till it comes out, let it find its level and fit bung

 

 

coolant should be 50 50 mix with universal antifreeze, fill it up, know idea of quantity, warm up vehicle, let it cool and check again

 

engine temp is already in emerald ECU, but if you have changed it, fan on at 98 deg C fan off at 94 deg

engine temp is set by state supplied with water rail, temp is stamped on stat

 

usually set at 3bar

 

plug supplied with engine are fine

 

can't speak for your ECU, set up with emerald power map should give 176 bhp approx

 

speed sensor should pick up from bolt heads, no need for magnets or drilling. make up bridge to go across tunnel to hold pick-up above diff flange GBS sell sutable bracket but its easy to make out of scrap alloy. PM me if you want design,

 

 

sorry have to go , will answer rest asap

[Guest J-Bond]

Thanks...

 

When you said...

 

"plug supplied with engine is fine"...

 

What do you refer..???

 

Thanks... I knew how to set the oil..

 

But the new engine came with an "orange" oil...

 

Like 3.5 liters... But with the new sump came in like 5...

 

So I didnt notice the bigger size of the new sump..

 

I got the map that came in the CD of the emerald... For the zetec with jenveys... But got a lot of "mistakes" or diferent parameters...

 

And checking the fuel map and the ignition map... I saw a little mistakes in some areas and I really want to think in "one map, one engine"

 

So for that reason my questions..

 

Many thanks with your answers...

 

[sj-bradley]

The dipstick shows the correct oil level for the engine.

 

If the sump is bigger - put more oil in until level is correct on dipstick. It's the LEVEL that's important, not the quantity of oil.

 

(Although more is better as it can absorb more heat.)

 

Don't overfill the max mark as this can pressurise the block too much I've heard.)

 

Simon.

[Guest J-Bond]

ok .. thanks Simon .. ...

[Guest mower man]

Iwould think that 5l is on a "dry" engine i.e. after first build with empty filter it would have a cpacity of 4l actualy in service ,these are not exact figs but a guesstimate mower man

[Guest Big T]

My engine took just a shade over 5 ltrs with a raceline sump and new oil filter. The "orange" oil you refer to should be drained and new oil filter fitted as its for storage purposes.

 

Only issue I get is the dip stick keeps popping out and blowing oil over the exhaust manifold which is always exciting when you cant see through the smoke on a track day The trusty cable tie has done the job until a strip and rebuild over the winter.

[Guest ethanicus]

Hi, the Raceline sump needs exactly 5l. Anymore and you will have high pressure. If you fill it to the default dip stick mark you have to much oil in the sump. I can share a photo of my score mark on the dipstick if required. Instructions can be found here:

http://www.raceline.co.uk/uploads/product_images/wetsumpinstruct.doc

 

Cheers Jon