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Fuel Gauge For Iva


Guest jwts

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Hi,

 

My fuel gauge shows the correct reading while you are driving but it doesn't return to zero when you turn the ingnition off. I know why it is but does it matter for IVA?

 

In case you wonder why it's because the sender supplied by RH with the Super Spec kit was wired the other way around so the gauge would go from Full to Empty as you filled the tank. RH's solution was to alter the face of the gauge changing E to F and F to E and painting the red bit black. I thought this was a fiddle and just changed the wiring in the sender. It works but doesn't self zero. I can fix it by adding a 'reset' button which you could press to zero the gauge but is it necessary?

 

Regards,

 

John.

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John,

 

I have recently done IVA and from what i could see, the only reason for a fuel gauge is so that they can see the tank is full when it goes on the weigh bridge, ie the weight of the car is its "wet weight". So as long as you top off just as you get to the test station, or fill it prior if trailering, then the gauge just needs to read full and you are fine. They are thorough but certainly don't do a fuel gauge calibration!!

 

HTH?

 

Sharky

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Thanks for the replies. I'll leave as is then. I should have asked earlier - i had already made the support bracket and modified the switch to make it fit :( .

 

While I am in contact with two knowlegeable builders I'd like to ask two more iVA related questions:

 

1. What documents do I need to take with me?

 

2. What is the best to do about photos? I was thinking about printing out a selection and taking the rest on my notebook computer. Would that be OK? What exactly is the purpose of the photos? Is it to prove I did the work or is it to show bits of the build you can't see when it is complete?

 

 

John.

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Bit old school; we printed off all safety critical pics of areas hidden when car complete (seat belt fixings before seats fixed etc) & put them in a ring binder; tester asked a question we answered with words & pics if not visible on car; also it shows domestic garage surroudings & you in a few to prove home build.

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i assume you are building a superspec from your profile bit. In which case are you using the sierra front shock mounts inverted and pushed up the roll bar to make the spring cups for the rear suspension?

 

if you are then you need to put a crush tube inside (well i did for SVA) then take pics of them to show the examiner.

 

If you have rear coil overs then you can ignore this. Although i guess you should really put crush tubes on the coil over mounting tubes as if i am not mistaken they are just tubes pushed up the roll bar with a bracket on. Guess it may also depend on the examiner.

 

hth

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Had a lot of trouble with my superspec fuel gauge showing different readings when engine running/not-running. Fixed after lengthy investigations: the solution was to EARTH to CHASSIS both at the fuel sender end, and at the gauge end (doh - obvious once I had worked it out). Don't use the earth in the wiring loom at either end, differences in voltage drop in the wiring loom caused no end of wrong readings (and it caused me to run out of fuel once). This doesn't fix the reversed reading - but does make the reading reliable.

-Steve

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John

 

I took the photos that I had sent through with initial IVA application and also took my iPad with all the rest plus all of my receipts in a file - as stated above, make sure that there are obvious domestic bits in the photos and I also made sure I was in one or two as well. Main things to consider are the bits that would be impossible to dismantle to prove in a short space of time - seat belt mounts are always good to have proof of. The rest is really showing the guy that you know what you are doing, such as using thread lock, torque loadings, being able to explain in general how you did things. I always think that if it looks like a dogs dinner when you take the bonnet off, then you will get more of a grilling! So make sure it's all neat and tidy! ;-)

 

Sharky

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