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2.0L Pinto Alternator Problems


Guest Martin.stgeorge

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Guest Martin.stgeorge

I am new to the forum and need some much needed help. I have a robinhood s7 which I bought from eBay about 3 months ago and have had no end of problems. Over heating, dip stick end dropping off in to sump, poor running. now I have an alternator problem.

 

I have tried to improve the running of the car before I take it to a rolling road, currently it is very hard to start and when trying yesterday the battery went flat, I used another car to jump start but the wire from the alternator was getting very hot. I looked on a forum and it said that usually they kick out around 40amps through the 2 large connectors but only one was connected so I thought I would connect the other one up! They both started to get hot, these are connected to the + on the battery, the block is earthed so am assuming that completes the circuit. I have used 35amp cable.

 

Also not sure if battery is powerful enough apparently I have a Vulcan head which could increase compression making it harder to start, added with an unknown cam and twin dellortos would this explain why it is hard to start when cold?

Can anyone help. I can take some pictures if this helps

 

If anyone can help it would be much appriciated

 

 

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Guest Alan_builder

Hi Martin

Welcome to the mad house.

 

There are about 4 alternators commonly fitted to S7s. The terminals change their action from one type to another.

Please provide part number and a photo.

Your S7 could be Dolomite, Cortina or Sierra based! and then the alternator could have been changed.

 

I seem to remember there being a fuse in the wiring loom on the Sierra.

 

There is an excitation field and the current output for charging.

Some incorporate an output for heated seats or charging caravan batteries.

 

Some alternators have big bolts part way through the rectifiers.

 

I don't think you should do what you have done.

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Guest Alan_builder

Hi Martin,

Having a higher compression and may be increased capacity will make increased demands on the battery.

Do you have the correct starter motor for this set up? The injection engines use a larger amperage / torque one.

 

I am an injection man so no starting problems. Carbs and flints (points) I always found hard to start, electronic ignition is easier and there are 2 types from Ford (may be more).

 

A picture is worth a 1000 words.

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Guest Martin.stgeorge

That is the problem, I didn't do it, I'm just repairing what someone else has done and assumed it would have been done properly. I will take a picture of the car tomorrow and post it. Again thank you for a quick replying. Not sure what the kit is based on. The front end does not look like the s7s shown in the what kits are available. And I was told it was a cortina but that's probably wrong to. All I know is that it has the stainless tub.

 

Martin

 

 

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My starting problems were all down to bad earth straps, this may be why your alternator wires are getting hot as the circuit is earthing through the body of the alternator.

You should have an earth strap as heavy as the red battery strap from the battery to the engine block, best to run to the startermotor bolt which fixes to the bell housing

I ran the main battery earth to the engine block bellhousing bolt, from there to the chassis, from the chassis to the startermotor bell housing bolt.

Under the car I have one from the gearbox central mounting bolt in the cup to the outer mount/chassis bolt

 

Previous to this I connected a spare battery and my mates desiel insignia, when I cranked his lights went dim and my starter moter started to smoke

 

I have now also fitted an Edge high torque geared starter motor but I believe there are some Cosworth geared ones available if you loll for standard starter money

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Guest Alan_builder

My starting problems were all down to bad earth straps,

 

Could be absolutely correct with Martins starting problem!

 

 

this may be why your alternator wires are getting hot as the circuit is earthing through the body of the alternator.

 

Don't think so.

Most alternators earth through the frame to the engine so having a bad earth engine to battery -ve, no way, the engine is to big a heat sink!

The heat is generated in the bad connection, in your case the bond wire engine to battery -ve.

 

We don't know if its the battery charging wire, connections, the lead its self or the wiring interconnection connections which cause the charging lead to overheat. Nor do we know if its a battery problem, an alternator problem or if its in the loom fuseable link that is getting hot and that is being felt.

 

 

Snapper, the rest of your post is OK

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Guest Martin.stgeorge

Right I have taken some pictures and will try to explain the wiring as I go.

 

Here is a picture of the alternator it is ford (well says it) and can't find any other logos or makers marks

 

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Guest Martin.stgeorge

I have looked the 2 red wires which come from the battery (small) go to the alternator, the big one goes to the starter motor,

 

There is an earth strap from the engine (manifold of carb) to chassis,

 

The - of the battery goes to the gearbox

 

I cannot add picture but have done a photo stream on apple so hope is link works!!!!

 

Also I live in clacton and have also included picture or e front end to see if anyone can distinguish what I have.

 

Sorry about the mess but will be sorting the wiring out as soon as it is running.

 

https://www.icloud.com/photostream/#A2JtdOXmG161Ty

 

If you could copy this link it will take you to the pictures

 

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Guest Alan_builder

Hi Martin,

 

I think you have a "New Mark 3" and that the roll bar has been changed for a lower wishbone. Have a look underneath behind the rear fixing of lower wish bone. About 6" back and 3" in is there a plate with a set of holes almost in a circle? If there is that is where the compression bearing (rubber) held the roll bar onto the chassis.

 

Looking at the alternator in the montage -

It looks like there are 3 pins in a rectangular hole and there is a wire clip to hold the plug in place? If so all the connections to the alternator should be made via the 3 pins, ( in a line in a recess). One of the three pins is smaller than the other 2, it should go to ignition warning light, one of the big pins to the battery via the in line fuse able link, I think the red wire is the one bottom left in the top right hand picture. The wire runs down the nearside and round the front of the engine in a Sierra, but who wired your car may have chosen their own route.

 

The black blob is the regulator.

 

Your bad starting could be down to the earth.

The carb is usually on an insulating gasket so you are using the thread in the aluminum cast inlet manifold? Correction corroded cast aluminum manifold. Not always good contact. Again there is a spacer shim between engine and gearbox, not always the bonding you expect.

 

As Snapperpaul said take a -ve wire direct to one of the starter motor mounting bolt.

 

Do rap up your wiring when you have sorted the problem as it aids reliability.

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Guest Martin.stgeorge

That makes sense, I will relocate the earth strap tomorrow and link it all up together. I did plan on wrapping the wires but just wanted it running well before I start moving wires.

 

Sadly back at work tomorrow so will have to look at it mid week. I will be carbon wrapping some parts this week so will start a re build thread.

 

Many thanks Martin

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Guest Alan_builder

Hi Martin,

 

No problem, just glad to help.

 

Do please update us when you clear the problem.

 

Now is the time to join RHOCAR only £15 or £16 by PayPal, you get a discount on your insurance worth more than that.

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