Winter Project - Better Weather Protection?

[richyb66]

I need to get the opening back window made next. The window shape will be rectangular, but the opening behind it will have rounded corners so the seal can run around smoothly. It will make access a bit more difficult but it’s not like I’m going to be putting suitcases in there.

 

4mm Polycarbonate (Lexan) sheet will be used for the window as it’s tougher and more scratch resistant than Acrylic sheet (Perspex). Firstly a rectangle was cut that just fitted inside the aperture and rested against the seal. At the bottom it was balanced on a couple of 3mm diameter screws (to set the gap). I could then mark off a similar gap around the other 3 sides. The picture is a bit fuzzy, but you get the idea.

 

 

On the inside, I marked around the inside of the seal path, the footprint of the 2 hinges and also marked out and cut the hole for the lock. The seal will be visible through the window so the plan is to have a blackout area around the outside of the window so the seal etc. is hidden from view.

 

 

Here’s the window in place, screwed to the hinges. This proved something I had expected to see – 4mm polycarb is a bit too bendy, particularly across the top between the hinges and it needs additional reinforcement.

 

 

It does open nice and wide thought, I had a slightly bigger shut gap along the top edge because the window passes very close to the roof when it’s opened. (The prop is just temporary but you can see the sagging along the bottom edge of the window).

 

 

Again, not the clearest picture, but the edge of the window is open here to within about 2mm of the roof surface which is the widest I want it to open.

 

 

A small key lock will engage behind the seal carrier. Not exactly high security but more than adequate.

 

 

[richyb66]

The stiffening around the window is made from 2mm x 25mm aluminium strip. I’ve mitred the corners so that they join neatly and here they’re clamped to the window.

 

 

 

The strips are drilled to suit M4 countersunk screws and the window was drilled and tapped M4 so the screws fix directly into it. For now I’ve use slotted screws but these will be replaced with stainless allen screws on final assembly.

 

 

On the back face, the screws don’t protrude so the rear surface of the window is nice and flat for the seal.

 

 

Once the window is refitted, I can check it opens an closes smoothly, fit a stay to hold it open and then it can be dismantled, the ally strips can be painted black and I can add the blackout to the window.

 

[Guest rwh]

Great job Rich. Can't wait to see the finished article (the hardtop that is).

 

Bob

[Al Milton]

Looks really good Rich.

 

It's nice to see you have a frame for the rear window. We have a lot of equipment at work with PETG hinged guarding which if it's not in a frame doesn't last too long before it cracks and eventually fails. It may be an idea to use a rubber washer to mate against the window, just to minimise the risk of cracking it when tightening the nuts.

[richyb66]

The upper frame around the rear window is drilled for the hinge fixing screws and the window is sandwiched between the hinge and the surround. This should hopefully reduce the risk of cracking.

 

 

 

The main skin of the hard top is ready to be tidied up. First job is to go over the roof with a soft disc on the angle grinder to roughen up the surface and highlight any low spots that need filling.

 

 

A skim of filler goes onto the roof an also on each of the rivets that had also been ground down.

 

 

The filler is then rubbed down with a block to smooth it off. I’m not after a paint quality finish, just to get the surface smooth and even enough to be covered with vinyl later.

 

 

With the outside of the roof complete, it can be turned over so that more can be done on the inside. The basic structure looks like this. At the front is the rectangular cut-out that will be covered by an air scoop on the top of the roof. This will duct outside air into the car.

 

 

A duct will be formed along the centre of the roof by screwing a cover onto the fixings shown here. The cover will have closeable vents fitted in it to allow the outside air to be directed inside the car.

 

 

Here’s the cover screwed in place, it’s made from white hardboard and will be varnished on the opposite side to resist moisture and the covered on the visible side with vinyl.

 

 

[richyb66]

At the back of the roof, above the rear window opening, I’ve fitted a 4 led lamp on an aluminium bracket. I’ll use a microswitch operated by the window hinge to turn the lamp on when the window is opened. This picture still has the roof inverted.

 

 

30mm wide slots were cut right through the main cross tube of the roof that sits on top of the car’s roll bar. These will be used to hold the roof down onto the car (although the weight of the roof will also help).

 

 

Here’s the roof fitted to the car. A 25mm strap is passed through the slots in the roof cross tube and wrapped around the roll bar as shown. On the completed roof, the underside of the cross tube will have a strip of foam rubber on it to provide some compliance and prevent rattling.

 

[Guest MarkB]

Amazing... bloody Amazing!!

[richyb66]

Amazing... bloody Amazing!!

 

Actually if you break it down, it's just a few simple things but repeated many times. Anyone who's built a car could make one, you just need to really want one and then have the time and determination to get on and do it.

[Guest MarkB]

Time and determination... Definatly two tools missing from my garage.

[Guest rwh]

Richy, that's engineering at its best.

 

Bob

[Guest whiz]

It's a fantastic piece of engineering great work hope to see it in the flesh if you make Newark

[Guest robinj66]

Truely a work of art.

 

Wish I had your ability and determination

[fry61]

Have you sat in the car with the roof at present state of finish, & how does the side of the rear quarters affect side/rear vision? Was thinking maybe small windows here as well as rear.

[richyb66]

Have you sat in the car with the roof at present state of finish, & how does the side of the rear quarters affect side/rear vision? Was thinking maybe small windows here as well as rear.

 

Yes, I've put a lot of thought into geting the height of the roof correct so that there's decent head clearance. The size and shape of the doors will give better vision to the side than you'd get with the standard weather gear which has the join between the door and the roof right alongside the driver's head.

 

The standard weathergear does give more visibility to the rear three quarters as it's got the additional windows and although I could add something here at a later date if required, it would be tricky due to the curvature of the panel. I'm also not sure what shape it would need to be to get a balance between something that would offer improved vision but that wouldn't look like it had bee taken out of the side of a 70's custom van. One thing I will be doing is to widen the stalk on the passenger side mirror as I thing this will give better vision through front of the door.

 

Rear vision is about the same as without the roof fitted as the rear window is a similar width to the 2 roll bar support tubes. For IVA I had my mirror at the top of the screen but I sometimes had to move my head to look around it so I moved it to the bottom of the screen and now I can't see much out of it (unless it's very close to the back of the car). I'm going to look at a different mirror that I can mount back on the top of the screen again that will still mount on the glass but sit a bit higher up as I think this will offer a good improvement on the current position.

 

It's difficult to consider everything in advance but I'm trying to cover as many 'in service' issues as I can. I've mocked up the doors but I'm concentrating on the roof at the moment as I'm getting close to finishing it off and when it's done, I can use it without the doors if I want to. I don't anticipate any big problems making the doors other than getting a decent seal around the top edges but I've got a few options here as well so the main thing holding me back at the moment is a lack of time in the garage.

[Bob Tucker]

I used this mirror....the stalk is swivelled both ends so it is adjustable about 3" up or down.

So I can see over my LeMans box!

 

http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/Interior_Dipping_Mirror_MINT2

 

Bob