Clutch Issue Advice Needed

[Longboarder]

For the clutch plate to fit you probably had a four speed type E (Rocket) box previously fitted.

 

Nigel

[MarkBzero]

That's correct it was a Type E 4 speed gearbox with 23 splines/1 inch input shaft. Photo's attached to show clutch fork at rest just touching the release bearing against the pressure plate. Clutch pedal ideal position for me to drive almost opposite brake pedal. Adjuster shown and clutch fork travel with clutch pedal fully depressed.

 

After looking at this I need more clutch fork travel without impact the pedal travel.

[MarkBzero]

Looking at Shafts suggestion now makes more sense. I have attempted to draw a picture but what is the optimum length indicated as 'x' in the picture.

 

Going to play with some off cuts and experiment with bolts through the pedal until clutch is disengaged fully.

[Longboarder]

Your pics show the cable with no adjustment taken up.

Release arm almost fully retracted. (Is it firmly in contact with the diaphragm fingers?)

Pedal flapping in the breeze. It has no reference point if it is simply sitting on the end of the cable with no stop.

Release arm forward by about half of it's potential movement.

 

You want to be wary of varying the leverage ratio of the pedal. 5:1 is heavy. 6:1 is comfortable and 7:1 light.

Release arm only needs to move about half an inch.

 

Put in a pedal stop to prevent the pedal rising past where you want it to be at rest. You can use a temporary bit of cord while you play with it. Adjust out all the slack in the cable. See if it works.

 

Nigel

[MarkBzero]

Thanks Nigel, I will try again on the weekend. Just doing some more research during lunch break is it possible that the friction plate could be stuck to flywheel/pressure plate and nothing to do with clutch adjustment?

[Longboarder]

Yes but then you get noisy attempted but can't get it into gear at all with the engine going and the car stationary.

To clarify the point about a pedal stop, you need to tension the cable so it holds the release bearing lightly against the diaphragm fingers. If the cable is only fixed at the engine end it cannot be tensioned. Something has to act as an anchor at the pedal end. Then the cable outer can be expanded/contracted to vary tension in the cable.

 

Nigel

[MarkBzero]

At last I have clutch, only drove up and down the driveway but it was fun. Made a pedal stop as per Nigel's suggestions. Had no success with the increased pivot point still had problems unable to select gear and clutch pedal was damn hard to press. Happy the pedal and cable was correct started looking at other issues.

 

Took the started motor off and would you believe it the clutch was stuck to the flywheel. Brake cleaner and turning the engine over with the starter motor and gearbox in 3rd on the driveway managed to separate. I could hear the rust clearing when taking up drive, once I heard no more rusty/friction noise and cleaned again with brake cleaner. Could do with a long drive around town but that will have to wait until after IVA.

 

Thanks for your help.