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Gearbox Oil Leak


Guest Phil Slater

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Guest Phil Slater

Hi folks

 

I seem to have developed a little leak - well at least my Type 9 gearbox has :rolleyes: .

 

I already have a leak from the front of my engine and I kind of hoped the oil I was seeing towards the rear of my sump was just that from the front tracking backwards across the alloy surface. Unfortunately, the car has been standing for a couple of weeks while I did the really interesting :boohoo: , and what my nearest and dearest considered the priority job of creating a concrete hardstanding for our caravan :blink:

 

Any how when I got the car out of the garage this weekend and I went underneath a droplet at formed and unfortunately it was red in colour (I've got auto transmission fluid in the box) so it's obviously from the gearbox. So, given I've got the leak at the front, oh - and did I mention - I made a complete, and potentially expensive cock up of my valve timing when I removed and replaced the timing belt when investigating that leak :wub: :blink: :wub: :blink: Don't ask me how - I do know now - but it's just too painful to talk about :boohoo: Maybe one day I'll be able to :wub: So, I 'm gonna take the engine out.

 

I'm presuming the leak will probably be from the seal around the input/output shaft (the one in the bell housing) of the gearbox. The Haynes manual provided no guidance so does anyone out there know if it's a simple job to replace said seal without pulling the gearbox apart?

 

As always any guidance would be much appreciated.

 

TVM

 

Phil Slater

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Guest rizla

:huh: slight confusion on my part but im sure the type 9 has EP80 oil not auto fluid or at least thats what the haynes manual says :(

 

the MT75 has a red looking fluid,but this still isnt atf

 

it maybe the reason you have a leak

 

found the oil code for the MT75 its ESD-M2C 186A

 

and the diff has EP90

 

IMHO

 

riz

Edited by rizla
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Guest Mark P

Type 9 gear box

 

just looked in the haynes manual of knowledge and I couldn't see anything on the input shaft seal (could be me :huh: ) The only gasket I could find was the clutch release bearing guide gasket and this is easy to replace.

 

If anyone can find more then great, I could just behaving a dumb moment :blink:

 

Sorry I couldn't be anymore help

 

Mark

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Guest TerryBarry

I have the distinctly red oil in my 5 speed '89 gearbox - certainly smells like EP oil (Tomcat's)

According to the Haynes Cortina manual which has a gearbox very similar to the type 9 - there is an oil seal in the cover where the input shaft comes out.

This is described as "main drive gear bearing retainer".

I'm not sure if you can remove the cover without undoing the gearbox casing from the bellhousing - still that should be relatively easy.

Haynes manual seems to refer to these Sierra gearboxes a type A; B; C or N while Cortinas had B or C - the N is the 5 speed variant - Puzzled well I am :unsure:

I've seen references to using A/T fluid in manual boxes - that stuff is thin and will probably test the seals compared with EP80.

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Guest Phil Slater

Thanks for the input so far.

 

As regards the fluid I followed the advice given in earlier threads - probably on the old community site - and decided to try it with the auto fluid. I don't remember any warnings about seepage with the fluid, as opposed to the normal EP oil - not that means it's not the cause of the problem. I just hope I dont have to pull the gearbox itself apart to fit a new seal :(

 

Phil Slater

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Guest Scottedog

In reply to phils question

 

Auto fluid is fine for the type 9 box, fords originally stated hypoid ep80 when they first introduced the type 9 but to be quite honest the synchromesh on type 9's have always been a bit on the lazy side and auto fluid helps no end, I have been reconditioning gearboxes for 16 years and have always used atf in type 9's and never had a problem.

 

As for the seal putting thicker oil to stop it leaking wont work if the seal is worn out the only remedy is renewal,

 

First you do need to remove gearbox(sorry!) then once on floor remove clutch arm and release bearing then you will see a cover which is the guide sleeve for the release bearing this is held on with four 10mm head bolts undo these then gentle tap cover and pull off, then using a blunt screwdriver lever old seal out and tap new one in using a suitable size socket...dead easy takes 2 mins to do the seal but unfortunatley hours to get the gearbox out ;(

 

hope this helps

scott

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Guest Greg

Phil, follow Scottedogs instructions, but you don't have to take the 'box out, unless the output seal's gone as well :( There's plenty of room (once the engines out) to get at the guide sleeve.The pic is of a hydraulic set-up but it gives you the idea.

post-7-1085556532.jpg

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Is it possible to get a gearbox out without moving the engine? I guess that removing the prop is the key to it, and on the 2B that's not easy with the tunnel panels in.

 

Ant

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Guest Phil Slater

Thanks Scott and Greg

 

that is good to know. I have to say I do have a sneaking doubt as Ant suggested that it may be difficult to get the engine out without the box - unless of course someone knows different??? ;)

 

I have to say I'm not sure how removing the prop shaft would help - I thought the clearance problem would be at the front of the engine on the chassis cross members :huh:

 

Thanks again

 

Phil Slater

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Guest Scottedog

Hmmm i have never done it but in theory i would have thought taking just the engine out on its own should be easier than engine & box.

Once the engines out of the way you will have bags of room to do the seal with box still in.

 

keep us posted on how it goes phil.

 

regards scott

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Guest Phil Slater

Will do :p

 

I've now got an engine crane so I'm hoping to do it this weekend - weather permitting :(

 

Thanks again for the advice.

 

Phil

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i've always taken the engine out on it's own, when that's all that needs looking at. there's no need whatsoever to remove the g/box, and once the engine has moved forwards 4" off the input shaft, it can come straight up.

Remember to support the front of the g/box though.

When you're putting the engine back in, you must have lined the clutch up properly with a decent tool, not just by eye. you need to get the bell housings square to each other to slide the input shaft in, also put the g/box into a gear, and turn the crankshaft with a socket on the front pulley.

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I was talking about removing the GEARBOX without removing the ENGINE, but the more I think about it the more impossible it sounds.

 

When mine went in it needed the front pulley removing from the engine to get past the cross members. Once I'd done that it was pretty straight forward, but that was when the engine was the only thing in the engine bay!

 

Ant

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