Camber Wedges Fitted

[biksz]

well just fitted the camber wedges from mark b and splendid job they do too only took about half hour cheated a bit though I cut them in half so I did not have to strip the rear down completely he he. only thing now is the rear sits higher its on standard sierra suspension so putting it down to that an one else had same problem?

[Guest shorty]

Hi don't see how that will make it ride higher.Probably be OK when it settles.

Artie

[biksz]

artie it drives spot on just looks high that's all

[theduck]

Shouldn't have affected ride height. Haven't dislodged a spring have you?

[Guest david_l_perry]

Quick question. Did you add camber washers to the bolt face, or just tighten them up against the drum back plate as the original fitting

 

Still waiting to fit mine but concerned about tightening the bolts. I cant see how you can tighten the bolts up without the heads distorting against the surface that is no longer parrallel.

[biksz]

just tightened the bolts the wedges are the ones that fit behind the drum back plate got no pics of them did not think of the pic part lol

[Guest david_l_perry]

Yep, I have the wedges, but the bolts cant then be parallel to the drum shoe back plate anymore.

 

Its only a slight angle but still, tightened up will cause the head to distort...

 

I may be over analysing this, but after the issues i had with sheared bolts i am a little wary..

[Andi]

After I put mine on I noticed the bottom of the drivers wheel had gone in too much, wheareas the passenger side was fine. Possible I have some dirt/stone/crud in there, but that was months ago now and Im just to busy/idle to take them off again. maybe next weekend. On my 2b the car can be lowered with just a couple of bolts, so maybe you could do that.Andi

[biksz]

never thought of that but to be honest if it was that much of an issue I think them who sell them would advise on washers to be fitted due to that imo hth

[Grim]

Yep, I have the wedges, but the bolts cant then be parallel to the drum shoe back plate anymore.

 

Its only a slight angle but still, tightened up will cause the head to distort...

 

I may be over analysing this, but after the issues i had with sheared bolts i am a little wary..

 

 

I had the same thoughts. The main problem is the reduction in fatigue life (tensile strength isn't generally greatly affected). Over 1 degree and the lifespan plummets.

 

I made some tapered washers to compensate when i fitted mine, using a surface grinder and an angle vice to make a jig, gluing the washers to the jig and then grinding them.

 

If you're interested there's some info here: http://www.boltscience.com/pages/nutfaceangularity.htm

[Guest david_l_perry]

That's what I was planning Grim. Glad it's not just me that could see this.....it s an obvious issue when bolting up against a non parallel face, and one that I don't think should be ignored in such a critical location.

 

The shims I got are really well machined for Toe and camber, and didn't fancy my chances of making something to match.

 

I was thinking I may get another set of the shims i could cut in two and have reversed inside the drum rather than separate washers. They would need some adjusting to fit inside so they don't foul with the drum casing but it would (i think) be a good method to adopt as the washers are not separate.

 

Still thinking on this.

[Guest Tim Norman]

Or you could just lift the diff and mount it higher, bottom hole on diff into top hole on chassis. Does away with the need for shims. Well that what i did and it worked fine for me. And its free.

[Guest david_l_perry]

Tim, what is it that changed the location of the swinging arms by moving the diff - its a little lost on me how it can change anything.

 

The only way I can see that you can mechanical remove the camber is by allowing the arms to drop lower so that they are in the standard sierra location. but then we would be driving hot rods with ramped up rears...

[Guest Tim Norman]

Look at the image. The diff is low and there is negative camber. Now imagine the diff being lifted, it will reduce the camber. Just try it if it. Its free and if it doesn't do it for you its cost you nothing. Like I said it worked on mine. It will also reduce the toe change also evident in the picture.

[Grim]

Tim, can you be clearer on what modifications you have made? After a little thinking, i assume you mean you have put the bottom of the two diff rear casing bolts in line with where the top bolt would have been, on the angle section of the chassis.

What modifications have you made to the front mounting points to compensate for the change in angle? I know the chassis plates are quite flexible by (lack of) design, I'm just wondering if you have made any other changes. I made new carriers off the chassis that mount into the outer trailing arm bolts. I assume the height of the front mounts was unchanged.

Also, any changes to the angle bracket on the rear of the diff? It cracked on mine with 50k miles of use, without any positioning changes.