Bigger holes and grommets might be electrically safer.

 

Nigel

Bigger holes and grommets might be electrically safer.

 

Nigel

 

& as the whole chassis is a negative return just one wire feed ?

I used heat shrink and black sealant instead of grommets and yes, I could have used one but to get it through the roll bar I folded the cable in half and then taped the thicker copper wire to the brake light cable.

Dashboard, I went for the classic old style ETB gauges and modern GBS yellow dash a really good contrast. Firstly I photo copied the gauges and then cut them out to check the spacing and format I wanted and also to check they are not obstructed by the steering column. Then using a hole saw and file each gauge was fitted.

Next step was to make a simple loom to fit the Sierra loom, this involved bench testing all gauges then cutting the loom to size and fitting connectors so I can remove the dash at a later date.I then secured the wiring using black conduit.

Really happy with the finished product, and it worked first time.

Now to fit all the components to bring the dashboard to life.

The rev counter was a simple connector to the coil.

Speedo used two magnets fitted to the diff flange, I drilled a small hole the same diameter as the magnets and used some araldite. The sensor was held in place with a P clip bolted to the tunnel side wall.

Coolant straight forward fitted to sensor in block.

Oil pressure sensor was anew unit which came with the ETB gauges.

Fuel level sender was shortened to fit the tank, this was secured by some lousy soldering and the inside of wire connector, I also added the separate earth point which is now required for IVA.

Your prop flange is likely to move around some under load/off load -- so you may get a problem with the pick-up being fixed to the body --- fix bracket to diff housing bolt then sensor & magnets will move in unison.

Spot on Bob. A mate of mine did the same thing bolting the sensor to the chassis and had an erratic speedo reading, made up an bracket from the diff jobs a good'un

Good idea Bob, job noted for next garage time.

I was going to leave the Sierra steering wheel on for the IVA test but it was a struggle to get in and out so I opted for a smaller wheel. It was a challenge to remove the Sierra steering wheel, brute force and a home made puller.

Then I fitted the standard steering boss from GBS.

Then a small steering wheel, first job after IVA to fit a removable steering wheel for security and to assist me getting in and out.

Now most of the dirty work was completed I started on the interior carpets and tunnel cover. First task throw out out the horrible grey carpet GBS give you with the kit and order some black carpet. I made templates of every piece required with cardboard.

Then used chalk to mark out the templates on the carpet, and cut each piece out. Note to self: don't use the wife's best kitchen scissors, they get a bit stroppy!

The tunnel cover was covered in black vinyl, I used some sandpaper on the ali panels to ensure the glue had something to stick to and then applied the vinyl.

The handbrake and gear lever black cover with yellow stiching was purchased off Ebay and glued to the black plastic surround (Will change this a some point in the future).

I was quite happy with the finish considering it was the first time I have ever attempted this.

Fitting the bonnet was an easy job once the front of the car was fitted on straight. I used chrome u trim on the front and rear of the bonnet and some foam strip to make a seal and fitted the standard IVA friendly bonnet catches.

I used a flat ratchet strap to hold the bonnet in place whilst marked and I drilled the holes for the rivets, this also held a little tension against the foam strip.

Job done, feels secure but I have heard of these catches releasing when driving.

Whilst getting in and out of the car (brum brum moments) I noticed I was standing on part of the powder coated chassis, which goes beneath your legs in the driving position. Not sure if this was a design feature to give the less nimble driver an additional helping hand or because I have the lowered floor? Either way I knew the powder coating was not going to last.

 

So I decided to fit some chequered plate to protect the chassis powder coating.

 

Straight forward two bends, two rivnuts in chassis and screw counter sunk into the plate.

 

A lot easier to get in and out and will last a lifetime.

There is plenty of room between the end of the engine and radiator so sorting the cooling pipes was easy. A different story for the heater matrix take off and return, I'll join them until after the IVA.

 

So I had turn all this, into something that would work.

I had to use some joiners and flexible pipe for the bottom of the radiator but to my surprise it all worked and did not leak.

 

I would like to re-visit the cooling pipes in the future, also I would opt for the radiator without the cap and fit in the top hose. This would make the rad cap more accessible.

Whilst being under the vehicle doing the coolant hoses I realised the sump was only a few inches from the ground. I heard about a few horror stories of 7's hitting the ground especially sleeping police men.

So I had to shorten the nice and clean, shining sump, another job 'two steps forward one step back'.

I marked the clearance I needed and then got the angle grinder out with a cutting disc then a grinding wheel to smooth the edges and clear the paint.

I then cut a flat piece and asked friend to weld it, my welding is not great, out of practice for many years. Then a lick of paint.

Then finally I fitted the sump and new gaskets.

I wish my welding was that bad !!!!