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Markbzero Building My Kit Car


MarkBzero

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I used heat shrink and black sealant instead of grommets and yes, I could have used one but to get it through the roll bar I folded the cable in half and then taped the thicker copper wire to the brake light cable.

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Dashboard, I went for the classic old style ETB gauges and modern GBS yellow dash a really good contrast. Firstly I photo copied the gauges and then cut them out to check the spacing and format I wanted and also to check they are not obstructed by the steering column. Then using a hole saw and file each gauge was fitted.

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Next step was to make a simple loom to fit the Sierra loom, this involved bench testing all gauges then cutting the loom to size and fitting connectors so I can remove the dash at a later date.I then secured the wiring using black conduit.

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Really happy with the finished product, and it worked first time.

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Now to fit all the components to bring the dashboard to life.

The rev counter was a simple connector to the coil.

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Speedo used two magnets fitted to the diff flange, I drilled a small hole the same diameter as the magnets and used some araldite. The sensor was held in place with a P clip bolted to the tunnel side wall.

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Coolant straight forward fitted to sensor in block.

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Oil pressure sensor was anew unit which came with the ETB gauges.

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Fuel level sender was shortened to fit the tank, this was secured by some lousy soldering and the inside of wire connector, I also added the separate earth point which is now required for IVA.

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Your prop flange is likely to move around some under load/off load -- so you may get a problem with the pick-up being fixed to the body --- fix bracket to diff housing bolt then sensor & magnets will move in unison.

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I was going to leave the Sierra steering wheel on for the IVA test but it was a struggle to get in and out so I opted for a smaller wheel. It was a challenge to remove the Sierra steering wheel, brute force and a home made puller.

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Then I fitted the standard steering boss from GBS.

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Then a small steering wheel, first job after IVA to fit a removable steering wheel for security and to assist me getting in and out.

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Now most of the dirty work was completed I started on the interior carpets and tunnel cover. First task throw out out the horrible grey carpet GBS give you with the kit and order some black carpet. I made templates of every piece required with cardboard.

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Then used chalk to mark out the templates on the carpet, and cut each piece out. Note to self: don't use the wife's best kitchen scissors, they get a bit stroppy!

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The tunnel cover was covered in black vinyl, I used some sandpaper on the ali panels to ensure the glue had something to stick to and then applied the vinyl.

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The handbrake and gear lever black cover with yellow stiching was purchased off Ebay and glued to the black plastic surround (Will change this a some point in the future).

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I was quite happy with the finish considering it was the first time I have ever attempted this.

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Fitting the bonnet was an easy job once the front of the car was fitted on straight. I used chrome u trim on the front and rear of the bonnet and some foam strip to make a seal and fitted the standard IVA friendly bonnet catches.

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I used a flat ratchet strap to hold the bonnet in place whilst marked and I drilled the holes for the rivets, this also held a little tension against the foam strip.

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Job done, feels secure but I have heard of these catches releasing when driving.

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Whilst getting in and out of the car (brum brum moments) I noticed I was standing on part of the powder coated chassis, which goes beneath your legs in the driving position. Not sure if this was a design feature to give the less nimble driver an additional helping hand or because I have the lowered floor? Either way I knew the powder coating was not going to last.

 

So I decided to fit some chequered plate to protect the chassis powder coating.

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Straight forward two bends, two rivnuts in chassis and screw counter sunk into the plate.

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A lot easier to get in and out and will last a lifetime.

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There is plenty of room between the end of the engine and radiator so sorting the cooling pipes was easy. A different story for the heater matrix take off and return, I'll join them until after the IVA.

 

So I had turn all this, into something that would work.

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I had to use some joiners and flexible pipe for the bottom of the radiator but to my surprise it all worked and did not leak.

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I would like to re-visit the cooling pipes in the future, also I would opt for the radiator without the cap and fit in the top hose. This would make the rad cap more accessible.

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Whilst being under the vehicle doing the coolant hoses I realised the sump was only a few inches from the ground. I heard about a few horror stories of 7's hitting the ground especially sleeping police men.

So I had to shorten the nice and clean, shining sump, another job 'two steps forward one step back'.

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I marked the clearance I needed and then got the angle grinder out with a cutting disc then a grinding wheel to smooth the edges and clear the paint.

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I then cut a flat piece and asked friend to weld it, my welding is not great, out of practice for many years. Then a lick of paint.

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Then finally I fitted the sump and new gaskets.

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