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Jaguar S Type 3.0 V6 Manual


Guest Mark Stanley

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Guest Mark Stanley

Floor mounted pedal box braced and fitted and frame work to hold the electrics and battery fitted with some 3mm aluminium sheet to rivet on top. This will give me access to the gear box if ever needed.

 

No servo on theses brackets so I will have to wait and see how they perform.

 

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Guest Mark Stanley

Floor mounted pedal box braced and fitted and frame work to hold the electrics and battery fitted with some 3mm aluminium sheet to rivet on top. This will give me access to the gear box if ever needed.

 

No servo on theses brakes so I will have to wait and see how they perform.

 

post-13081-0-23732000-1416161322_thumb.jpgpost-13081-0-09732400-1416161354_thumb.jpgpost-13081-0-52804000-1416161373_thumb.jpgpost-13081-0-85801000-1416161514_thumb.jpg

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Guest chris brown

Anyone know why the sub frame is fixed to the chassis on rubber mounts, then Next to the rubbers the sub frame is then bolted fixed solid to a plate that links to the trailing arm. The diff is bolted solid to the chassis also.

 

This means part of the sub frame is on rubbers and part of it is fixed solid. This can not be right can it?

 

Would it not be better to put the diff on a rubber mount , strengthen the flat plate that the sub frame bolts to and remove the fixing point that the tailing arm was joined to. For example how it was designed to be fitted to the sierra cosworth.

The original rubber mounts were used to align the suspension initially then there should be hole cut in the lower part of the tube just behind the mount and a 10mm hole drilled through the upper side of the tube and chassis plate so as thr tube is bolted solid to the chassis. But lots of people removed the rubber completely and welded a plate in its place. Another option is to do as was done on the superspec and the DOHC chassis and cut the mounts off completely. You do need it bolting down solid with no complyance as it is a sports car
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On the other hand --- as the 2B weighs considerably less than the Sierra donor --- Florin has the rubber mounts retained & the "S" plate under the rubbers ( as per Ford Sierra) used with spacer tubes & bolts -- the rubbers then work exactly as Ford intended. Rubber mounts that are only restrained on one side was probably the reason for RH bolting solid. Same goes for bolting direct to chassis the outer trailing arm bush. Florin's diff is also mounted on the original Ford rubber & the engine & gearbox, all as per Ford Sierra.

 

But then Mo & I built a 2 seat open top cruiser not a track car, 32,000miles & still all O.K Built for comfort & quietness.

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Guest Mark Stanley

I think the solid mount as per the supper spec is the way forward , even cutting off the rubber mount once everything is jig up, but re make the fixing point because the tab that bolts to the trailing arm on my chassis is starting to tear. It is an offset tab that is designed to push the car forward. The offset in the brackets is a weak point which is starting to show even after running a standard pinto. A rebuild from 3mm to 5mm and some triangles built into the plate should be good for 300hp if I'm lucky.

 

Making Another fixing point on the top of the looped rear subframe would also take some load off the diff mounting point.

 

Back to the drawing board.

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Guest Mark Stanley

The original rubber mounts were used to align the suspension initially then there should be hole cut in the lower part of the tube just behind the mount and a 10mm hole drilled through the upper side of the tube and chassis plate so as thr tube is bolted solid to the chassis. But lots of people removed the rubber completely and welded a plate in its place. Another option is to do as was done on the superspec and the DOHC chassis and cut the mounts off completely. You do need it bolting down solid with no complyance as it is a sports car

 

 

Do you have a photo, my flat plate has a vertical hole in it which was used to bolt through the rubber bush then a horizontal hole on a tab which was used to bolt the plate to the trailing arm. So two holes in one fixing point

 

Also do you have a photo of the welded plate Version. Do you have to pack the plate up around 25mm to simulate the height of the rubber ?

 

 

 

 

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Guest chris brown

No photos but Colin Ushers build site has photos, look at rear suspension detail and you will see the extra bolt about 2in behind the one that goes through the rubber mount.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Mark Stanley

Rubbers removed , 5mm plate fully welded on top and 10mm hole drilled for a fixing point.

 

Old sub frame fixing point removed and replaced with 5mm plate. RH plates were 2.5mm/3mm very bendy,

 

New plates have gussets to take out any flex and a 60x30mm box running across the chassis will also stiffen everything up

 

Everything is measuring up square so I'm going to replace the 10mm bolts with m14. I don't think the rear end is going anywhere now.

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Guest david_l_perry

Mark...your really need to sort out your picture sizes...you know how we all like to see pictures on forums......yours are just too wee n tiny to see with my dodgy eyes :-)
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