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High Revving A Pinto


Guest Tiger78

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Be aware dipstick marks have no correlation with the depth of the sump it only has relevance to the bottom of the block and the crank lobes

The idea of the Max mark is that the oil level is set below the lowest point of the crank

The low mark is relevant to oil volume in the sump but this varies is the sump is shortened

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Guest Ian Maycock

I would suggest that if you decide to do this try and be a little scientific. Measure the distance from the bottom of the block the lowest point on the crank. Lowest if the block is still in the car. If the block is out on the car. Turn upside down and measure to the highest point on the crank. Use this measurement and mark the inside of the sump. Before fitting the sump fill it with water to the level marked and then measure quantity of water used. Whilst you are doing this you could also fit the dipstick and mark that same position on the stick, I.e. The measurement from block to crank as measured before. This will give you the max level. Don't forget to allow for a quantity of oil that will be held in the oil filter when fitted. It's important as mentioned previously not to have the crank sloshing in the oil in the sump as this will cause frothing and poor circulation.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Over to you Longboarder

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A thought, when fitting an RS2000 sump it had a windage plate this is about level with the higher part of the sump therefore oil is not above this at max and crank does not hit it.

Oil pickup pipe runs slightly above the higher part of the sump and crank does not hit it, so max level will be below bottom of horizontal section of pickup pipe.

If you take dipstick out of tube and run it externally down the side of the engine and sump using the top of the dipstick tube as your level it should show where the max mark is relevant to the sump a best guess would be about ½ " below the high part of the sump

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I have to over fill above hi mark as i think i overshortened pick up pipe when shortened the sump, all is fine till i brake heavily going down a steep hill oil pressure drops but if i overfill slightly all ok oil pressure 40psi at idle 60+ when running

 

Derek

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Guest Tiger78

Well oil level on dipstick is 1/3 full. I would say I'm still getting seapage from the filler cap but not causing any performance issue. What are the options going from here? Engine was built and has a max of 1000m on(so the previous owner said). Had it out today for approx 70 miles and didn't miss a beat apart from minor oil loss which isn't even noticeable on the dipstick. Thanks in advance

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Guest Tiger78

Currently breathed on oil cap and one down below leading to piper filter. Had then all off and blown through with no issues . Any more I could have off to clean though?

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Guest davidimurray

For the breather on the side of the block, has the valve been removed? Asstandard, this breather is connected to the inlet manifold and the vacuum opens the breather valve.

 

Are you also using the standard oil filler cap? You can get an alternative with a pipe outlet from halfords.

 

My setup is the piped filler cap, I've replaced the lower breather with a plain elbow and then both are piped into a tee that then goes to a catch tank.

 

Just re reading your post you say you breather goes to the piper filter, i would be surprised if you got much of a vacuum in there and hence might not be opening the valve if still installed.

Edited by davidimurray
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  • 3 months later...

To restart my old post....

Crankcase breather is removed and piped up to catch tank, filler cap has been changed out and piped up to catch tank. Catch tank has filter to ambient. Car is running well- but still getting small amount of oil Turing up on rocker cover lip. Trying to work out where this is coming from. Tempted to remove the steel wool from the oil cap - after that I'm doing some tracing for a leak somewhere....help!!

Thanks in advance

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There should be a splash plate just under the oil filler hole to stop oil being thrown from the cam directly up onto the underside of the oil filler cap. Is this present? If you have sorted out cam cover and block breathing to an oem standard then you have to start thinking that your engine is breathing much more heavily than oem.

 

Nigel

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Guest mower man

I have never seen a truly leak free pinto ! some better than others but not what you would call dry my own 2.1 was a challenge which I never conquered in 12 years of trying you may have to accept some sweatyness and loss for the sake ofyour sanity mowerman

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My 2.0 litre EFI (running standard set-up) has the smallest of leaks from the front crankshaft oil seal but that's it. A couple of drops on the floor after a run, never had to top it up between changes and my throttle is binary and I know the rev limiter works, frequently.

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thanks folks - not enough to top up - a little oil goes a ,on way, on a long run I can sometimes spill on the headers which give that smell.....I will keep looking - is there anything I can put on the engine - then run for a while to id the leak?

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Guest mower man
:crazy: :acute: :clapping: Old indian trick degrease/ wash down engine/enginebay blow dry ,do not run yet when dry blow talcum powder in/on suspect areas then run up to operating temp /road test for 5/6 miles and inspect any weeps will be obvious as a dark stain ,theres your leak !!! . you will have to wash the engine down a gain but at least you know where it leaking . This came from Austin/Rover when maestro and montego engine were being a real pain in the bum it helped greatly HTH mowerman
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