Sebring Project

[fry61]

Rear screen solution ?? Have a new screen made in 6/8mm polycarb; should then be thick enough to take the hinges & locks & will not spoil the look of the rear end. If a frame is made it will be necessary to reduce the existing so probably similar costs.

[femster87]

Cheers Bob, problem is getting the thicker poly carbonate to form like the 4mm one

[Grim]

acrylic, aka perspex forms a lot better and could be done with a heat gun. It is more brittle, but less of an issue on a rear screen? (i don't know, just thinking out loud!)

[nicko]

Try

http://www.centuryplastics.co.uk/

I used these for my doors. Might be able to advise and only the other side off M1 from where we meet Wednesday

HTH

Nick

 

 

[femster87]

Nicko, I have seen their unit. Might call in someday. Was thinking of something like this

 

http://forums.volksworld.com/showthread.php?1852-Safari-window-for-beetles

[femster87]

The engine has now been installed. I decided to use the original mounting point on the car as opposed to side mounting though the front chassis rail. They are quite thin box section and would require reinforcing. We picked up on the Kseries front mounting points and fabricated a mount to use the original chassis location. I think it looks neat . The mount was made by Martin Keenan

 

 

 

 

The alloy tank has also been completed.

 

The tunnel had to be cut a bit to fit the gearbox. I really did not want this but it had to be done

 

Edited January 10, 2015 by femster

[femster87]

Fuel tank pictures

 

 

 

I will be moving on to running brake lines and wiring during the week. Am off to tidy the garage now. Enjoy and have a good weekend.

Edited January 10, 2015 by femster

[femster87]

Not much progress here, 150mile round trip a day and deadlines at work means I am on go slow. But I have learnt that i hate car body work. Shutlines and dents have been the order of the day. What I hate the most is the dust gathering in the garage. I have to hover it on a regular basis .

 

Some pictures below

 

 

 

 

On a side note, i need to join the fibreglass inner and outer frame on my window. Any advice welcome, I am thinking of using a epoxy infused strip between the 2 parts and filling the remain void with chopped mat strands and then sanding smooth.

[Guest 2b cruising]

I think even though the base of your engine mout is quite wide, and you mount to engine fixing is solid, you will find to much torqu twist from the engine when you suddenly accelerate. You might even benifit from a side mounted strong shock absorber. Just my thoughts and opinion. Easy o ignor it.

[femster87]

I think even though the base of your engine mout is quite wide, and you mount to engine fixing is solid, you will find to much torqu twist from the engine when you suddenly accelerate. You might even benifit from a side mounted strong shock absorber. Just my thoughts and opinion. Easy o ignor it.

 

Cheers, I will look into that once the engine is running

[Guest 2b cruising]

If you do use a s/a, best used at extremes of travel. Ie bracket to head bolts.

[femster87]

Aaargh, I hate sending cars out for work. As i was not making much progress on the MG last year. I got a classic car company in to replace the last few panels I did not get to. Everything looked alright when i got the shell back. I was sanding around the panel tonight and noticed the surface was springy. Turned out, Mr experienced classic car restorer has filled in holes with PU adhesives. All dug out now and scope of work expanded. I am going to give him a snorty ring tomorrow. Moral of the story is always check work done for you immediately and before you pay. Be patient and do the work yourself if you can

[femster87]

Sanding and more progress pictures. Also a picture of me for laughs.

Bonnet fitted

 

 

Meee

 

 

Not much else to say.

Edited February 28, 2015 by femster

[Guest Ian & Carole]

Police 5 recent bank robbery!!

[femster87]

Catch me if you can, I am related to Usain bolt