Bulkhead

[exlabman]

Hi,

Kicked myself up the chuff and back on the build after too long an absence.

I understand there needs to be a bulkhead between the engine bay and the interior of the car.

The issue I'm having is around the pedals, however I do it there will be a gap to allow pedal travel. I was wondering about putting draught excluder brushes over the holes around the pedals.

Would this be sufficient to pass the IVA man? Would it be seen as interfering with the travel of the pedals?

By the way it's a Tiger supercat not a RH in case you are trying to visualise the problem. I can put pics on when I get home.

Cheers

D

Edited February 20, 2015 by exlabman

[fry61]

The Americans call it a fire-wall for good reason -- it needs to be a complete fireproof shield between you & engine bay.

 

With most/all ?? Robin Hoods the pedals are drivers side & just rods or cables pass through the bulk-head.

[exlabman]

Yes that's done behind the pedals, this is above the pedals where they fit to the top mountings, master cylinder etc. I briefly considered boxing over all of it but this would cover the master cylinder and pedal adjusters.

 

D

[theduck]

Box it in.

[Guest 2b cruising]

Triumph builds lie on the scuttle part of the bulkhead. Even manufacturers cars are covered with a rubber boot.

Don't know if rules have changed since last triumph cars were built.

[exlabman]

Think if I box it all in it'll have to be removable to give access to master cylinder and adjusters. This means cables and pipes will need to be fed through slots leaving holes again.This one thing has stumped me for months and I'm getting fed up with it.

 

D

[Guest 2b cruising]

Passing cables and wiring through is ok with the correct grommets and fixings. Likewise boxing in. Riv nuts will make it easily removable.

Is it possible to see other peoples builds and take pickies of them. I'm quite sure other members can help you with such. Picture are far better if taken yourself as you can remember the full 4d aspects.

[Guest Ian & Carole]

You could always use a couple of these for your wiring.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-CABLE-ENTRY-GLANDS-4-8mm-BLACK-NYLON66-PG9-CHASSIS-HOLE-15-3mm/121549512351?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D29318%26meid%3Dd603ed8dbf4e4147a75edbd00739990b%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D111522077268&rt=nc

 

Boxing off your pedals using rivnuts to secure an inspection / pedal adjustment panel isn't the end of the world, if you want total water tightness then a length of sticky back foam draught excluder along the edges will sort that out.

 

At the end of the day once built and on the road how often are you going to be changing the pedal set up ?.

[exlabman]

Cheers for the replies.

I was trying to sort it without disconnecting and removing everything to get this thing in place. Gonna have to bit the bullet and remove the master cylinder, disconnect all the wiring and cables to pass through single holes. I wanted to box around them leavino slots but this doesn't seem to be acceptable. Just hate going backwards, I suppose I need to get used to that.

 

Onwards...

[sj-bradley]

Before shaping aluminium, I would mock it up with cereal boxes to make a pattern and make sure that it doesn't foul movement.

 

If you look at by web site you'll see how the zero does it. To be honest, it's not a 100% firewall as there are still small gaps where cables pass through holes and the master cylinder pokes up through the biggest opening at the top. I could make a removable cover for it I suppose, but it passed IVA like that.

 

Simon.

[exlabman]

Thanks, tried cardboard but it wasn't rigid enough, started it in hardboard.

 

Cheers

[Guest 2b cruising]

If yours is anything like mine, you will need to shape the off side top corner to allow bonnet to be fitted.

Just letting you know in case you fit it all then can't get your bonnet on.