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Sump Repair Help Needed


Nicola Roberts

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Guest chris brown

Mr nice welder man is going to repair it for me :rofl: Dean has to take it off tonight ( five min job im sure ) :angel:

Do as suggested get him to use 3 mm steel for the base and just a little way up the front. Well worth it.
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Guest Ian & Carole

One tip but if a good welder should do.

 

With it being a shallow comparatively thin tin sump ask if he intends to bolt it down to keep its shape and stay square.

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Guest 2b cruising

Hi Dino. You will be loosing quite a lot of your get up and go through your torque converter and box.

It one of the prices you have to pay for being auto boxed.

New boxes are much better with immediate drive lock out. Or if you can afford one, an auto clutch. Common in HGVs but don't know of one in cars yet.

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Please explain....why the hell don't they put a drain plug on the gearbox.....arrrrggghh.

I have a good mind to drill a bloody great hole in the pan after the welding and tap a screw whole for a plug for next time I have to drain it.

The garage floor never had a drop of oil on it until last night....

 

Oh....I also discovered a that the gearbox is not what I thought, so don't start laughing!

Yes it's an auto...18 bolts and a A4LD (which is supposed to be a 3 speed (+ 4th overdrive)....

Seems I haven't been fast enough to get the overdrive or the electronic solenoid has been disconnected.... :sorry:

 

It was a 10 minute job to remove (but hours to clean up the mess) :nea:

 

Meantime, the money pot is filling up for Nikki's 40th birthday (many years away yet).....pheww, close call to divorce.

But if she continues to abuse the car then the funds will be re-allocated to a engine and gearbox conversion. :rofl:

 

After finding Pinto & A4LD parts getting rare/expensive and the addition of a swift conversation to Tractor & seeing Steamers work on the supercharging an MX5...

Sorely tempted to stick a supercharged MX5 into the 2B (with a manual...of course).

Only time, money and circumstances will tell.

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Surprised there wasn't a drain screw in the sump!!

 

Nah...Just 18 bolts in the gearbox pan and a lot of lovely red fluid.

Nikki is in the process of getting a 3mm chequered plate welded across the bottom and front as we speak.

 

The worse bit is filling it back up, I have just read the filler whole is situated behind the passenger side tunnel wall.

So tonight will be a spent removing the passenger side interior (again for the third time in a year) and drilling a large whole in the tunnel wall and making a panel for easier access for the future.

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Richard I think you may be right for a partial drain and refill.

After finding this very useful manual online and looking at page 34:

ftp://ftp.capri.pl/user/mkozlowsk/A4LD.pdf

  • remove pan
  • drain fluid
  • replace gasket
  • install pan
  • add 2.3 litres of fluid thru filler tube
  • check levels

Even better, it has information on the vacuum servo etc....which affect gear changes and the part I have updated recently and may need to look into after the initial test drive.

A bit of a blessing, instead of drilling holes I get to make gaskets and shop around for the correct gear oil and end the night with a little bed time reading for the kids - "Introduction to the Ford A4LD Service Manual" :lazy:

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Guys, save me messing about with making gaskets etc, the old one is in very good condition.

Is it worth the risk trying to use the old one and carefully use a gasket sealant to make sure?

 

I have read on a couple of US forums that gasket sealant is a big no,no....just encase any particles get into the gearbox and bugger it up.

I would have thought the filter in the pan would stop this?

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Guest Ian & Carole

Really depends on how much you use.

 

Just put a small bead round both faces and you will be fine.

 

If the gasket is immaculate then just pop some LM grease on both faces.

 

What ever you do do not put that much on that it oses out as you torque up the bolts.

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We used to use a product called Wellseal on some of the diffs that we manufactured. It's consistency is like treacle and non hardening. Brush it on the gasket and leave it for the solvent to evaporate, bolt up and job done! It's what I always use.

 

Rob

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