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Pinto Camshaft Vernier Pulley Recommendation


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Whilst my 2B was being MOTed I was chatting to the garage owner about my plans for the car, we got onto camshafts and was it worth doing in an EFI Pinto and he said most certainly yes, with a vernier pulley. So I already have a new camshaft and followers that have deeper and longer opening phases, I just need the vernier pulley (its all in the timing apparently!).

So, any recommendations, and if so why?

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The only thing I have heard is that ally ones need a case hardened exterior or teeth can wear however I have a Turbosports one and a Rasly Design one not much difference

Buying second hand off eBay is a lottery

I like the ones with a degree pointer and Allen key fixings

The peg drive ones are more difficult to set up IMHO

Kent & Piper are fine if a tad expensive

Edited by Snapperpaul
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Guest mower man

I used a Quafe [asin g/boxes ] pulley and it performed flawlessly and was simple to play with ,not as blingy to look at but did the job , I'm not sure if they are still avaiable though hth mick

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Quaife peg type every time. The ones that just use three allen bolts and friction to hold the parts together are forever slipping and you end up going too far on the bolts to try and stop it - if forced to use this type (because it's all that's available for a given type of engine maybe) I would drill the thing once it's set and shove a roll pin in to prevent it slipping.

 

Iain

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I agree with Iain.

 

From personal experience, either go for a peg type or if you end up using the type with the 3-4 allen head bolts, after you've set the pulley in the correct position drill it and use a roll pin to secure in position as they do have a tendancy to slip.

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Cheers folks, so the consensus is whichever one I buy, peg it post timing! Now do I go for bling or retain the discrete OE look...........? Or do I buy cheap like any good Hoodie?

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Guest 2b cruising

Belt and braces mate. Better being safe than embarrassed.

Loctite does not stop smaller bolts from stretching or pulling threads out of ally parts.

If threads get damaged, I always use Wurt tread inserts. Much more expensive but in for life, and not some silly little coil.

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We always reckoned a good part of the problem was the mix of materials (ally of possibly two different grades and steel). They are in an area that gets warm and will all expand at different rates and lead to movement. Plus the fashion always tended towards making them as anorexic as possible leading us to suspect flexing may play a role too.

 

From what I've seen I doubt loctite on the bolts would make any difference. On the ones I've seen that have slipped the bolts always seem to be tight still. I'd be more inclined to suspect some loctite between the parts of the pulley would be more effective but future adjustments would be a nightmare.

 

A note if you are pinning this type - make sure the pin doesn't protrude on the back side enough to catch the flange of the rocker cover or similar.

 

Iain

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The Pinto is a non-interference engine so with the limitation of a few degrees either side you won't bust a valve

I am worried that this thread is turning into an urban myth of pin works others don't

You may well come across one that has slipped but I know dozens that have not.

So let's not get all scaremongering about this and go with the probabilities of a slip on general use.

 

I'll start, 2 engines I've built no problem

Several race engines that Elite Motorsport are running no problem

3 Super Rods, although these run a cam in block chain vernier no problem

Hundreds of people on Turbosports forum and thousands on Locost builders no problem.

 

I think we need to keep this in perspective

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I bought mine from anembo engineering. cheapest place i found new. been on a while now not had any issue. shaft timied my engine up and tightened the bolts

but I have checked them to make sure too.

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