Steering Rack And Set Up For Sliding Pillar

[Sid76]

Hello all

 

Just a quick couple of questions. I now have both of the Sliding Pillar uprights built up and on the car (pics will follow on the build thread).

 

FERRINO (Tony) sent me some great clamps for the steering rack (Thank you again) and then i read on one of the threads that the T.R.E needed to be fitted from the bottom as opposed to 'from the top' and then there is difficulty getting a Metro TRE to fit a Sierra hub??? How have others made this work?

 

I got some Ford Ronal alloys from 'the bay!' I will need to fit a spacer on the front hubs for the tyres to not rub on the springs. Can i ask what you nice guys and girls did? What size of spacer? Did you have to fit longer studs, if so which ones?

 

I'm thinking this will only be a problem for the fronts as there is little for the rear tyres to rub on but is that the case, or do i need spacers on the rears? I am slowly building the back end up again - so i suppose will know myself soon. I have also seen some threads suggesting the use of shims on the back. Whats this about, and does it effect all cars?

 

I know with sliding pillar i may not get pinpoint accuracy with set up but anything i can do to nudge it closer will be for the best.

 

Thanks again for all your help as always

[Guest Ian & Carole]

You need to either get hold of or find an engineering shop that have tapered reamers and get the hub reamed to the correct taper of the TRE.

 

And for spacers I would go along these lines

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-KA-MK1-96-08-4x108-PCD-24mm-63-3-CB-Hubcentric-Wheel-Spacers-Nuts-1-Pair-/161631805770?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item25a201a14a

 

 

depending on how wide a spacer is needed.

[Guest 2b cruising]

I would follow Ian's guide on the spacers.

You either need to make your wheels inti et15 to 35. Preferably nearer the 35..

If you don't do all four, your back wheels will look stupid half way under the car.

[Sid76]

That great - they are bigger that what i thought i would need. At least it solves the studding problem through.

 

so would i need wider rear arches then?

[Guest 2b cruising]

No.

Going by what you opened with, the wheels go further onto the hubs making your wheelbase narrower.

Spacers would bring them out to where they should be.

Look on the web for instructions on finding et of wheels or off set.

It you take the centre of the depth off the wheel, this would be zero et.

The nearer the hub fits to the outer rim of the wheel, the greater the et number.

The nearer the inner rim would be classed as negative or minus et. ie deep dish wheels.

It's a tricky bit of science, it's simple at the basics but the more you look into it, the more tech it becomes. So stay with the basics.

 

[Sid76]

Do you guys know if the track rod ends need to be fitted from the bottom (so the thread going through the hole from the bottom with the nut on the top) - there nothing IVA-wise that would need this to happen is there. Ian mentions the tapered reamer thats all i would need to ensure the TRE fits correctly from the top. Thats right isnt it, and that would be okay for the IVA?

 

Cheers

[Guest Ian & Carole]

They need to go in from the bottom , nut on top, you MUST try and get the steering arm as near parallel to the bottom fixed wish bone as humanly possible or you WILL get massive bump steer, with a SP you will get a small amount any way.