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Exmo Revamp


jaimo

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Guest Gargoil

Good news, Jaimo.

And well done to Mick

 

On the road to recovery, fix one thing at a time and you will soon be there.

Nice one.

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Not sorted but alot better looking at new dizzys as vac gone and worn inside just found a non vac dizzy in garage but not sure if its an efi dizzy if so would it work any ideas on wot it is and if it would work not going to change unless need too but think would be good to have one ready

20160619_092727_zpsoid9ywoc.jpg

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Guest 2b cruising

YES. A bit more expensive to fit but once fitted and set up from crank and cam sensors, not a lot goes wrong.

Don't start messing with it yet.

Use your car for a bit first.

Edited by 2b cruising
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I wouldn't bother with that distributor. It's a Hall effect one and you currently have an inductive dizzy. The electronics for reading the impulses are different and I don't think you will get any sparks or advance curve without fitting the ESC11 or later ECUs and possibly a TFI unit.

 

Nigel

 

How did you conclude the current dizzy is worn? Was it wide spark scatter shown by timing light? This would be unusual with an inductive dizzy as they can take some wear without significant loss of accuracy unlike points distributors. However if there is much spark scatter then a replacement dizzy of the same type would be a good plan.

Edited by Longboarder
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It was mick that suggested the dizzy was worn as in bob weights and not advancing as good as it should as suck test proves diaphram gone wen timmed up nice idle then the starting is missing as though battery flat but found it hard to get best compromise

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Well strip the dizzy, take out the top gubbins to expose the advance weights, and check they are sound, springs in place, sit fully retracted and can run to fully on the stops spread without resistance except from the springs. This may restore your advance curve. If they don't sit fully retracted at rest you loose some of the advance curve. As a result your static setting will be too retarded and you loose the top of the advance curve resulting in not enough advance at higher revs and the engine running out of puff. (Sorted with new springs. Almost any dizzy springs will do at a pinch if they are short enough. They will change the advance curve but the top and bottom figures will still be right, just the middle a bit wonky but not enough to notice.)

Forget the diaphragm. Block off the vacuum tube, remove the vacuum unit and make up a little plate to lock the moving part of the base plate solid in one position. You won't miss it.

 

Nigel

Edited by Longboarder
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Guest 2b cruising

If diaphragm has gone I'm not sure you can still get kits.

No use attempting to carry out Nigel's good advice so do research for repair parts first.

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Guest mower man

Or get a non vac distrib as a easy way around ? ,He is commited to fit mega jolt though , if its done properly it should be brill ,personally I chickened and bought a accuspark dizzy mick :sorry: :crazy: :acute:

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Keith with that do I have to lose amplifier unit then as that looks like an upgrade from points

And the only bit I am having trouble getting my head round on megajolt is the trigger wheel fitting

Do I want the missing wheel to pass sensor when engine at 90 degree before tdc so if so what's best way to do this as

Set engine at tdc but then where does missing tooth go and sensor etc

Coz I understand that basically tdc mark on pulley wants to be 90 degree to left when tooth passes sensor

So would this idea below work

Crude drawings and not exact but am I right in my thinking

20160620_180215_zpscfw7zfey.jpg

 

Or am I getting confused

Does the engine need to be at tdc when missing tooth passes the sensor or does the engine need to be at 90 degrees before tdc when passing sensor

If that makes sense

Edited by jaimo
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Guest Ian & Carole

Brilliant bit of kit. We have the 6 cylinder version fitted to our Daimler.

 

Been fitted 4 years now and the cap has not been of yet.

 

Much better starting and MPG, it now does 12 !!!! much much smoother running.

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