Td5

[Shaft]

The TD5 set up is rather unique in the way it works as opposed to "historic basic function". There are actually 2 thermostats, one in the hose in its own sealed plastic housing with 3 pipes connected and another that controls flow of coolant around the fuel return cooler.

If you need any documentation to aid bleeding etc I can email some pdf's from my Factory maintenence / service manual.

[Guest Nik]

Once again guys thank you. I have a replacement stat that goes into the bottom hose so will change that then bleed it out to see what happens. It didnt pressurise the header tank or have moisture coming out of the exhaust when I was playing around with it last weekend. It got warm once but not to the extent where it was boiling. It has no symptoms of what an old engine would have had when the head gasket was gone. But that's a lot of the trouble I only know how to work on engines that have points, distributors and a proper radiator cap!! Or a desiel pump bolted to the side of the engine that you bled out by cracking the pipe at the top of the injector open and sprayed yourself in deseil . Now if it were a series landrover or a tk Bedford or D series lorry I was pretty adapt at crawling under the cab of a tk to remove the head back in the day. Oh dear I really am showing my age!!

[Shaft]

You'll love the diesel bleeding on the TD5.... it does it itself which you activate with a sequence using the ignition key.

[Guest peter2b2002]

my freelander td4 bmw diesel engine runs cold I know it's the therostat that's stuck open but to get go it is a real pig offside wheel off liner out undo engine mount jack up engine then using 9inch long fingers remove the boots to remove said thermostat unless any one kmows better

peter2b

Edited September 26, 2015 by peter2b2002

[Guest Nik]

I know better, put some extra clothes on in winter so when the heater is blowing cold it won't matter!!

[Guest Nik]

Just started it up no bubbles into the header tank put cap back on let it tick over for a few minutes no pressure at the header tank, then I clocked that the electric fan was running!! I'm hoping I've found my problem. I'm guessing the electric fan being stuck on would keep the rad cool and the temp at normal !!

[Shaft]

The electric fan is controlled by the ECU which is given it's relevant data from the temp sensor. As a matter of interest, with the engine cold, go to start it and see how long the glow plug light stays on for, if it's a short time compared to normal when cold then the ECU thinks the engine is already warm so goes some way to diagnosing a faulty temp sender perhaps.

 

 

[Guest 2b cruising]

Nor really.

It would not keep it cold under any circumstances.

That's working cos sensor is on engine side of t/stat.

Latest test shows well worth trying a new t/stat.

I also agree with shafts opinion above, but not if your car was genuinely overheated when you first went out to it.

A fault like that should put you into limp mode, and engine light come on as well as high temp reading.

Edited September 26, 2015 by 2b cruising

[Shaft]

I too agree with 2B cruising above but with the addition of.... due to the high position of the temp sender during a low water scenario the sensors 'bulb' is no longer in the water flow and can give a false reading to the ecu thus no limp mode signal from the ecu.

Modern is good until fault diagnosis time.

[Guest Nik]

Been playing with it all morning temp reads normal doesn't lose water heater works as should air con works as should no pressure in header tank. Has no symptoms of anything wrong other than rad not getting warm. Am gonna change stat and see where that leads.

[Guest Nik]

Just been talking to the mrs "was a bit slow and struggled to get up the hill" maybe it was in limp mode!! Your guess is as good as mine

[Guest Nik]

Does anyone know if the 36mm nut that holds the fan of left or right handed thread?

[Shaft]

It's a normal right hand thread.

Shock it loose with a quick sharp blow on the spanner with a lump hammer.

[Guest Nik]

Shaft thanks for all the advice and help, I removed the stat yesterday and tested it by filling it up with boling water. It appears to be ok but I have a new one and am just gonna go and fit it. If it is the head gasket my biggest fear doing it myself is the cam timing. How hard is it putting it back together or can you lock it all up before taking it apart??

[Guest 2b cruising]

If you have common rail injection, timing is no problem.

All you are timing is the cams with no other ancillaries to complicate things.

Easy way to tell if common rail, wires going to injectors = common rail, electronically timed and calibrated delivery.

Should be some way of locking engine and cams to TDC number 1

If you have to turn engine or cams when stripped down, make sure you re lock them in the same possition before laying head back onto the engine.

Worth buying an engine manual first. This will tell you what tools and where locking points are.

Usually easy to do without tools if just holes in block, just use correct size of bar or drill bit.

If you do use drill bits, under no circumstances attempt to turn anything while they are fitted as to brittle to take any force, but ok just sat in holes. Oh yes, use the shank end not the Tyne ends.

Edited September 27, 2015 by 2b cruising