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Guest Nik

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Thanks. I changed the stat and left the viscous fan off when I first ran it up rad did warm up eventually. Hoses getting warm either side of the stat. Jacked front up raised expansion tank and bled it. An Fairly sure no air in the system Heater only luke warm and temp gauge reading between cold and normal. It used to sit at normal all the time even when towing. Def something wrong somewhere. Not sure what to do whether attempt to change the head gasket myself or give up on it. It is an old car with plenty of miles on the clock so not worth spending a fortune on but pre this prob it's been great for dragging the horse box around and throwing the dogs in the boot without worrying about messing it up. It has reminded me why I gave up being a mechanic all those years ago!!

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Guest 2b cruising

Try it out for a week or so.

Not a lot of problems if staying on the cool side and definately no damage will be done

If you decide to get rid, let me know as I might be interested in buying it if price is right.

Edited by 2b cruising
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Evening Nik, sorry but I'm convinced you have head gasket failure between a water way and a combustion chamber. I base this on experience of it being a common problem but worry not, it's a simple enough job albeit the head itself is a 2 man lift!

 

Check out this link I've dug out and have a study. It's for a Defender but the set up is identical albeit some routings of pipes will be different.

I have a genuine Landrover workshop manual so if you decide to give it a go drop me a PM and I'll email you the relevant PDF's.

 

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/66259-td5-cylinder-head-removal-how.html

Edited by Shaft
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If the water isn't circulating properly due to head gasket failure and pressure build I would guess it will get hot, that's what I'm struggling to understand. Why is the temperature gauge reading normal or below? If I was certain that it was the head gasket I think I would probably have a go at it myself.

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Great link shaft thanks. 2b cruising thank you too. If I do pull it apart whats the likely hood of the head needing skimming and pressure testing. Are they known for warping/cracking? I don't think I have a lot to loose if it is just a gasket set and new head bolts but any more than that I don't think I'd bother. I don't mind spending a few hundred quid but looking at the price of replacement heads it wouldn't be worth going down that route.

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Guest 2b cruising

Usually get away with warping if head bolts are all still tight.

Undo them in correct sequence but not in one go.

Just undo the fist crack on all bolts first then each another 1/4 turn. When all free to turn just undo as you like.

Don't know about td5 but many engines have different size bolts and thread pitches on head bolts, so beware where each one goes.

You will also need a full head bolt set to as they are stretch bolts for single time use only.

I would still give it a run around first for a few days.

I have also heard of impeller faults on these to. That would defo lead to no circulation.

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I think pump is ok as when bleeding there is plenty of water coming out of bleed screw and if revved the flow increases so would suggest pump is doing its job. Will give it a run round see what happens, just nervous of doing more damage if the block is getting hot through lack of circulation but as shaft has suggested temp sensor is reading air temp.

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Pretty sure now that it is the head gasket after a couple of tests over the weekend. After taking it on a test drive the top hose was firm and there was a small amount of pressure in the header tank. I have done a bit of research an people are talking about 1 hole or 3 hole head gaskets and replacing plastic dowls with metal ones. Can anyone enlighten me? Any advice would be much appreciated, or if anyone local wants to trade my area of expertease if theirs is replacing the head gasket on a td5 😄😄I'm in double glazing or treble glazing aswell nowadays.

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Guest 2b cruising

I've had head problems to Nik.

My daughters BMW e46 engine was pressurising.

I have bled he system by following the laid down instructions word for word from the workshop manual.

I have even had the car jacked up to something near to 45' and filled it that way.

I've tried doing it every way possible but not cured it.

I carried out all the tests and checks I could think of as I did not want to unnecessarily remove a very complicated cylinder head.

In the end I bit the bullet and bought all the vanos and cam timing tools. Removed the head and guess what.

No signs of the gasket leaking at all.

I've since cleaned the head and checked it for visual signs of cracking or splitting and found nothing.

The bores are in exceptional condition and no signs of cracks in them.

It's now off to a local engineering place to have the head pressure tested.

If that comes back good I will have to start an engine strip so I can see 100'/, of the bores.

Just how far do I have to go before I can find an obvious enough solution.

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That's exactly my fear. Do all that work and not cure it. I gave up being a mechanic close to 30 years ago, I don't mind a tinker and a bit of fabrication but modern(ish) stuff frightens the life out of me!! I guess I don't have a lot to lose its an old (ish) car that don't owe me a fortune so if I do the head gasket and it doesn't cure it I'll be a couple of hundred quid down and still get a couple of bob back on it as a breaker. And if under the bonnet of a td5 looks complicated to me I definitely wouldn't be attempting the BMW. Good luck hope you find what it is.

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Guest 2b cruising

If you can get away without removing the cam and valves, it won't be such a bad job.

It might also be worth just trying to retorque the head first.

If they are stretch bolts (wich most are these days) and are loose to the spanner, follow the original torque and turn method on them bolts.

To tell if they are loose, set torque wrench to final torque figure in the book.

If they turn before the torque is reached, they are loose.

That's when you torque and turn to original stage figure.

Correct order still to be used though.

Not a lot of work involved in this and if some have stretched, this can be a simple remedy.

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Evening Nik, be very careful just replacing the head gasket as these TD5 Cylinder heads are prone to minute cracks etc that you can't see. It's a false economy in my opinion to not have it pressure tested and a quick minimal amount skim. The "Hole" gaskets you mention denote the thickness of the gasket.

 

See here for some good literature: http://workshop-manuals.com/landrover/defendertd5/engine/cylinder_head_gasket_selection/

 

Also, whilst you've got the head off you'd may as well re lap the valves in and clean out the ports from the years of EGR valve gremlins and badness.

 

 

It's a simple job to do albeit time consuming.

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