Bolts

[Guest Tim Norman]

Anybody know where I can get M10 x 1.0 10.9 bolts 25mm partially threaded.

I need them for my prop flange to the diff the current are fully threaded and they allow some movement between flanges.

[Shaft]

Are they nut and bolt Tim? If so you'll get away with 3/8" UNF (9.525mm) as the prop face dia usually ensures concentricity with the diff.

I have some if you go this route.

[femster87]

Nick they are just bolts. The only way you get the bolt is to buy blanks and thread them.

 

http://www.jrwebster.co.uk/index.php?id=899

Edited September 27, 2015 by femster

[cb750]

I got mine from Burton Power

[femster87]

The burton power ones are fully threaded

[Guest 2b cruising]

Screw fix without problems. You would have to buy lots though. Look at the web site, they just might do them in tens.

You need to know the propper length of shank though.

Measure the thickness of both flanges and add together. Minus a little say about 2 mm or there abouts.

As spoken about yesterday, in your case you need to be exact diameter to eliminate the play you already have.

I advise not to use 3/8" bolts.

You would also probably get away with 8.9 hardness but 10.9 better.

Bolt with a shank are just what they are called. Bolts.

If threaded all the way they are referred to as screws. Funny I know but that's it.

There are plenty of outlets on the web but Burtons if need be but more expensive. Even breakers yards would have some but take a mic or vernier to get them right.

Most cars would be 5/16 or 8 mm. Larger cars, jags and such will be 10mm 3/8"

Hope this helps.

Edited September 27, 2015 by 2b cruising

[cb750]

My Burton ones weren't!

[cb750]

I've always known fully threaded bolts as Set Pins

[fry61]

Drill for a couple of dowel pins if all "slack" needs removing -- bolts/set screws will always have some clearance.

[Guest filwaf]

Set screws is what you are looking for.

Try Cromwell tools to obtain small quantities. https://www. cromwell.co.uk

Check on web site for depot near where you live. You can usualy collect. If there is one local to you you can phone them direct and organise a "cash sale". All prices are on the web-site. Have used them often abd are very good. When ordering bolts or set screws, the length is measured from under the head, NOT overall length.

Hope this helps.

 

Remember to allow for SPING WASHERS when measuring for length.

Edited September 27, 2015 by filwaf

[Guest 2b cruising]

Propshaft Langston drive through the bolts, not one flat face against another.

The bolt are not an interference fit but a comfortable fit.

No room on the flange for dowels and bolts, that is why the plain shank on the bolt is a must.

if you feel the need to put set in front of the bolt then by all means do so. It is the full name of what you want.

If you speak to Burton and tell them what you want and why you want it, you will get the correct thing.

[Guest Tim Norman]

Cheers lads . I know about the bolt versus screws name convention but apparently most of the internet doesn't!

The bolts that have been in from the initial build are the proper Ford Item they just don't have the plain shank.

[Guest 2b cruising]

Yes Tim I'm aware of that.

Just thinking in your situation the shank is wider than the thread in most cases.

Filling your worn or re- drilled holes.

[Grim]

if there's movement between flanges, the bolts aren't tight enough. Fully threaded screws should be fine in this situation. If you need to rely on a bolt shank to stop movement of the flange, you have a greater issue. You will still get failure of the bolts by fatigue, sooner or later.

Edited September 28, 2015 by Grim

[Guest Tim Norman]

The bolts have been in for 10 years but I only noticed the movement when I took the tunnel sides off over the weekend. It is nut and bolt at the gearbox end. So I might just drill the diff flange out and go that route at the back. I have put a M10 bolt in the rear flange to check and there is no slack evident..