Mark 3 Front Suspension

[Guest Monty2556]

I think I've got a Mark 3 as it has inboard coil overs. Would I be correct in thinking that? The V5 just says "Robin Hood". Is it possible to convert the suspension to outboard coil overs as per the newer Mark 3? I got the information about the suspension set up from a web site which details all the different suspensions for Robin Hoods.

[Guest Pauljordan]

Inboard suspension maybe an S7 ?

[cb750]

My 3A is inboard suspension. Can I ask why you want outboard? Is it to give more suspension travel?

[Guest Monty2556]

I've made the assumption that inboard coil overs won't be as good as wishbones with coil overs. It's just that outboard is a more usual suspension set up than inboard. I'd be happy to be corrected.

[IanS]

F1 are all inboard and they have very large budgets

[Big Jim]

There is nothing wrong with the inboard coilovers on the mark 3 so long as as various "adjustments" are made.

 

The top wishbone pivot point needs grease nipples fitting.

The long stud through the top wishbone needs anchoring so that it doesn't turn in the chassis, but the wishbone turns on this stud as it should.

Ideally the chassis where the top wishbone pivots would benefit from being strengthened up.

The inboard shock absorbers needs either modifying or changing. Standard they are fitted with 180lb springs & zimmeride shocks, these need changing to 130lb springs on decent shocks. or, Initially, there was an alternative modification instead of changing the spring rate on the shocks, that was to move the mounting point of the top of the shocks nearer towards the pivot point on the top wishbone, (I think it was 1½" closer, but I'm not sure) mine has been done this way and works fine.

The bottom shocker mount could do with strengthening up also.

[cb750]

Everything as "big Jim" says and mine works great. ( not did the mod but changed springs, shockers and reinforced mounting points and redesigned the pivot bush system).

[Snapperpaul]

I added Gaz shocks with 120lb springs and did the tie bar modification

A huge improvement

I have pictures of how to fit Gaz, Robin Hood uses smaller bushes and bolts so you need to drill out the bottom mount holes and the wishbone tubes

It's simple enough

[GambolGold]

I use inboard shocks. They allow full travel of the suspension, are accessible to inspect, adjust and change and are protected from the elements, road salt etc. Perhaps the arrangements is slightly heavier than alternatives.

[Longboarder]

Technically inboard shocks are a better option. Lower mount holes for the shocks allow tuning of the shock angle changing rate and progression. Action can be almost linear. They are protected against the elements. Geometry of the wishbones can be identical. Reduction in unsprung weight. Reduction in aero drag.

Should actually be the better system if the lower wishbone is a wishbone and the anti-rollbar is not used.

 

Nigel

Edited April 29, 2016 by Longboarder

[Guest Monty2556]

Many thanks for all your help. My assumption was wrong! If it's good enough for F1 its good enough for me!! Changing the shockers and springs shouldn't be a problem. How do I go about fitting grease nipples? Is it simply a case of drilling the top wishbone, threading the hole and screwing in a grease nipple? How would you suggest strengthening the wishbone and shocker mounts.

[GambolGold]

How I installed grease nipples on mine is how you described, except I took the bolt out first and removed any swarf before refitting and greasing. I drilled equidistant from the ends of the tube part of the lever for the hole for the nipple - I supposed it would allow both sides to fill with equal pressure of grease. Someone mentioned making sure the arm pivots on the bolt, rather than allow the bolt to pivot in the cross member. On mine that was done simply by making sure the nuts are tight enough on the bolt. While I was at it I repositioned the shims (which are washers) for maximum castor angle, hence better steering self centring.

[Snapperpaul]

 

 

 

[Guest Monty2556]

Which Gaz shockers did you use. They seem to sell for all the major makes but not Mark 3 Robin Hoods !! Did you get the springs from them as well? Roughly how much did they cost?

 

Once again many thanks for all the information.

[Big Jim]

Ref shocks, take off the old ones, with the springs off, them measure the the shocks in their fully closed & fully open states, you then need new shocks with similar measurements and 120 / 130lb springs.

Ref stopping the stud / rod from turning in the chassis, just tightening the nuts up hard will only crush in the chassis there hard onto the ends of the wishbone effectively attempting to stop the wishbone turning on the bar. Instead you need to make a captive nut on a plate (pear shaped, triangular, any shape you want!) screw the rod into this then fix the plate to the chassis so that it can't turn, finally then use another nut on the bit that protrudes through it locking it on. Similar to locking 2 nuts onto a stud to screw it in/out of a hole, but you fix one nut to the chassis so not able to turn.