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Ford Crossflow/type 9 To St170/mt75 - Winter Project


MarkBzero

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Test fitted the idler pulley and alternator, I need to cut some metal off the lower timing belt cover there is only about 7mm clearance. I also had to adapt the alternator pulley because I could not find an exact match to fit the shaft, once everything is working I will ask a local firm to turn a proper collar.

Upper bracket also catches on the timing cover, I had to grind the corner off.

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Pulley from retroford £40.

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You can see the water pump will go in the right direction and how close the belt is to the timing cover.

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dont want to put any bad vibes your way mark but have you checked that the alternator you have will fit in the engine bay without fouling the chassis the only alternator i could get to fit was a micro alternator and the only bracket that would fit was the GBS bracket

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dont want to put any bad vibes your way mark but have you checked that the alternator you have will fit in the engine bay without fouling the chassis the only alternator i could get to fit was a micro alternator and the only bracket that would fit was the GBS bracket

Not yet, still doing test fit with all components, jus roughly measured the space and you might be right. Going to fit new prop and gearbox today, then I will measure again.

 

Worst case sell the other parts and order the denso kit off GBS or I have seen a kit that can be fitted on exhaust side. Thank you.

Edited by MarkBzero
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yes i looked at fitting alternator on the other side but because the engine mount on my st uses the forward bolt holes it left nowhere for the alternator to be bolted to

Of course, same here plan 'B' then.

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Simple day, fitted the water rail (purchase from member) and new inlet manifold for twin 40 dellorto's.

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I purchased a new inlet manifold from Advance automotives £165 and I used a gasket from DanST £12, 1mm thick Novus inlet manifold gasket to suit the Ford 2.0 ST170 engine and new studs.

 

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Edited by MarkBzero
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I would suggest removing the oil/water cooler the oil filter sits on. Not needed and it complicates the cooling plumbing. Oil filter goes on fine without it.

Will do, anything to save space and complexity. Thank you

Nigel

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I believe both the crank and flywheels are dynamically balanced within very tight tolerances. So I am assuming fitting a Ford flywheel to a Ford crank should be OK. The bolt holes are offset so no error on fitting, this conversion has been done by many and I have not heard of any issues yet. Fingers crossed!

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Started to work on the engine mounts over the weekend, the right one (viewed from driver seat) was straight forward. Bolted straight on, I had to make a few 22 mm spacers to ensure the mount could easily fit onto the plates already welded on the zero chassis.

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The other side I had to modify, cut off the original 3 hole engine mount and make another 4 hole plate to match the bolt holes in the engine block, this sits a little further forward then the right hand engine mount. Again I had to fit a few spacers to ensure the full engine mount was sitting in the right place.

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I will not weld the new mount into place until further along in the build.

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Also started to prep the gearbox, I was going to top up the gearbox oil but after searching everywhere for MT75 oil (which I bought 2 litre's) I found it was already full to the required mark. Must be a good sign. First job to knock out the clutch release arm pivot pin and fit the GBS longer pin, surprising how hard it was and took some serious blows before coming out.

 

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Simple solution, there are mixed views on the internet if this is the best solution of fir a different clutch release bearing with a spacer.

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Job done.

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