Ford Crossflow/type 9 To St170/mt75 - Winter Project

[MarkBzero]

Whilst I am playing with the gearbox I decided to test fit the GBS MT75 quick shift, a staggering £183 but feels really good and slick.

 

 

I have read on the internet that the gear lever can become loose overtime in two areas, firstly the pin securing the gear lever to the gear box selector erodes and wears and the pinch bolt is threaded across its entire length. The first is cured by fitting a steel roll pin and second fit new bolt, not screw so the thread cannot crush/wear.

 

Clutch arm and brand new release bearing fitted.

 

 

Finally, don't forget to extend the reverse switch cable once in the tunnel it is near impossible to reach the cable of find a suitable plug to fit.

 

 

 

[MarkBzero]

I have a buyer for the old crossflow (more money to throw at the project, I can now but the VVT Pro and starter motor), so its time to get the engine out. It has done well for such an old engine, parts are still available but at 1.6 litre and 87 bhp I need more power, much more.....to keep up with lot.

 

Straight forward removal, I had to put the front wheels on wooden blocks so the engine lift legs could clear the suspension bottom arms.

 

Forgot how small they look compared to other more modern engines.

 

[MarkBzero]

Removing the gearbox was straight forward, once I jacked up a rear wheel because the fronts were on blocks I could not push the car backwards to get to the propshaft bolts.

 

[MarkBzero]

Back to the engine, started a long and painfully slow process of cutting the sump to fit the starter motor. I used various saws and air sander to remove most of the ali sump. Very difficult to judge how much to remove whilst on engine stand because I cannot align/dry fit the gearbox at this stage.

 

 

I am going to cut the steel section level with bottom of gearbox and increase the capacity for the full length of the sump.

[MarkBzero]

Started to prep the steel section of the sump, but with rust and corrosion I think it is beyond saving especially with my poor welding abilities. I know it is going to be expensive but I have decided to buy a purpose built sump. Watch this space £££!

Edited February 6, 2017 by MarkBzero

[MarkBzero]

After spending an hour on the internet looking at the different types of sumps available for my engine, I decided to fit the ATR sump from GBS. A massive £300 quid but will save a lot of time compared to altering the old sump.

 

Thought I would check the bottom end whilst I removed the sump, looks and feels OK, no play in big ends and no marks on the cylinder bores.

 

The kit includes and cork gasket and new oil pump pipe with wire mesh filter.

 

Looks very well made and had baffles already fitted.

 

I had to make a few minor amendments and file out two hole that did not align perfectly.

[MarkBzero]

Finished, the instructions says to use a smear of gasket sealant especially around the front and read crank flange.

[MarkBzero]

Managed to fit the new propshaft from GBS £238 and MT 75 gearbox today. It was a little awkward fitting the gear lever whilst in the tunnel, a lot of extensions and small pair of hands in the engine bay. Starting to feel like I am making progress.

Edited February 12, 2017 by MarkBzero

[MarkBzero]

Managed to get some garage time yesterday at long last, made a lot of progress. Fitting oil pressure sender unit compatible with my gauges, I had to fit an brass adapter because thread size was different lucky for me I found one in the bit box.

 

 

Then I moved onto fitting the 1.8 flywheel, I had to order new bolts because I was not confident to cut down the longer bolts I removed from the dual mass flywheel, only £12 from Burtonpower. Not sure if it would effect the balancing or damage the end of the crank. I used some thread-lock to be on the safe side.

 

 

Finally fitting the clutch, I have heard and read so many stories about clutch slip, cheap clutches versus ceramic paddles etc. but in I decided to fit a standard 1.8 zetec clutch for the time being. From Euro car parts, (using club discount) made by LUK for £94.

 

 

I find the clutch plate alignment tool very useful, I remember when I completed my apprenticeship we made a bar with many different collars/ends on the lathe so you had a box full of spare parts and could never find the one you wanted.

 

[MarkBzero]

Fitting the engine was straight forward, with the exception of the ACR alternator which prevented the engine from fitting. I was made aware of this problem earlier in the build so already had the smaller Denso unit from a club member and GBS alternator mounts £40.

 

 

Big gap to fill.

 

 

Gap filled, seeing light at the end of the tunnel is a great morale builder since the car has not been on the road for 5 months.

 

[MarkBzero]

The alternator bottom bracket is made so you can add washer to align the pulley correctly, very well made by GBS. I used new high tensile bolts because they were the only ones that fitted from limited supply of nuts and bolts.

 

 

Alternator aligned with other pulleys, although until running it is best guess at the moment with straight edge.

 

 

The top bracket fitted to the block and alternator, because I was slightly concerned about the main charging bolt being very near to the inlet manifold I decided to elongate the hole to give me another 7-8 mm.

 

 

Need to get a shorter drive belt.

[MarkBzero]

When I started this project I was originally going to trim the sump and buy a narrow, slightly smaller starter motor but after buying the GBS sump i did not need to. The starter fitted very well and worked when I bench tested it however I do have a spare wire that used to go to the old starter, I will look at Haynes manual later.

 

 

Go it from ebay for £74.

 

 

Positive terminal is straight forward and ignition live is the small bottom silver nut, but still have another cable from donor wiring loom.

 

[MarkBzero]

I ordered some coolant pipes, ali pipe joiners and jubilee clips from ASH £55. Not a perfect run yet but gives me a better idea of what I need later.

 

 

I have also connected the engine and cam cover breather to existing oil catch system, I will colour match the hoses later.

 

 

I had to make the left hand (passengers side) engine mount before fitting the coolant hoses, not the best welding in the world but is has been 2 decades since I used any welding equipment. Two coats of undercoated and sprayed black, should be OK.

 

 

 

Edited February 26, 2017 by MarkBzero

[MarkBzero]

Final job on Saturday was to fit the carbs, staying with my trust worthy DHLA 40s they were refurbished prior to fitting to last engine so I know they are good, I might upgrade in the future to bike carbs or twin 45s.

 

New mishab washers and soft nut/washer things supposedly to stop frothing of the fuel due to vibration. Personally never suffered with last car.

 

 

Interesting the Pipercross PX600 back plate from last engine did not fit this configuration, the Zetec inlet manifold brings the twin carbs about 20mm nearer to each other. I will have to buy a blank back plate and cut to fit, gutted.

 

 

TPS fitted.

 

[Bob Tucker]

Can't you cut the backplate & weld a bridging plate across the gap?