Cooling Advice

[brumster]

New ducting panels are getting made at work tomorrow and will be installed tomorrow night, this will make sure the air can only go through the rad.

 

Pretty much 90% of the cooling horrors I've seen on kit cars over the years have all been down to this, or getting the air out. A lot of people focus on getting it in but don't realise due to air pressure behaviour that air will find the easiest way out all the time, if you give it a choice so take the choice away . That and getting the air out after it's done it's job, of course.

[Bob Tucker]

I just read your post about moving the fan from in front to behind the rad.

Make sure it will work properly as a puller..theres much more to it than

just changing the polarity of the wires. The blades are aerodynamically shaped & will

lose about 50% efficiency if turning the wrong way

Edited March 16, 2017 by Bob Tucker

[Guest mcramsay]

It woks as a puller or pusher, no need to reverse polarity, there is a sticker on the fan showing which way the fan should be facing for either set up.

[Bob Tucker]

Thats good

[Guest mcramsay]

Just wanted to thank everyone for their help so far, hopefully by the weekend I will have got through the teething issues and be able to enjoy the marlin!!!

[Guest mcramsay]

So for any one that's interested I have been in touch with the company cool experts, who made my polo rad, they sent me over the engineering drawings for a ford cortina radiator, this allowed me to make a 3D mock up out of plywood.

 

First of all the mock up next to the rad I'm currently using -

 

And then the mock up in position

 

 

 

The only issue with this radiator is I need to go for a 70mm thick core, this gives the rad a total thickness of 85mm

 

Also means I need to have the inlet and outlet of the rad on the passenger side, then reroute the bottom hose back over to the drivers side under the chassis rail, if I had the outlet on the other side it hits the alternator.

 

This rad is almost exactly the same cubic inch capacity as the stock m3 rad, however part of this is due to using a thicker core which I know is not as efficient but I will have to hope it works!

[Guest mcramsay]

So new rad is in, on longer drives temps are much reduced at around 84. Still creeps up to 90 in slower traffic, it seems like the longer I drive the worse the cooling becomes. With the bonnets on the cooling fan was really struggling to bring the temps down on the driveway. I think it is to do with how hot the engine bay is getting..I have louvred side panels but the bonnet is not.

 

Thinking my next step is to get bonnet louvres done by marlin next week, I can get air in, but possibly the hot air has got no where to go and reduces the cooling efficiency.

 

The one positivre to take away is that I managed 10 miles at a stable 84 degrees, and it rose to around 90 when I gave it some stick and then backed off. Prob 15 degrees lower than previous runs

[Guest Gargoil]

I'm having similar issues (but much less so) as this.

Driving around at speed all is good, as the pace slows, temps start to go up and by the time I get home, the fan has kicked in.

This shouldn't be the case, the GTM has a new radiator, pump and thermostat.

I know that the designs are totally different but I tried something the other day and was a little surprised by the result.

Having got home, with temps rising (but not overheating) fan kicked in, I turned off the interior heater plus fan and gave the engine a few revs.

You would think that temps would go up even more but they started to fall quite quickly.

The heater seems to work fine, so could it be that the coolant circulation isn't biased towards the radiator enough?

It might be worth a try, if the Marlin has an interior heater.