I would check fuel level, they are prone to the float valve sticking especially if they have been stood long enough for the fuel to evaporate away from the float bowls, the residue sticks the valves, causing a higher float level and with the cold start enrichment, basically a fuel tap, they just over fuel.

Checked float levels and needle valves, all brand new and moves freely. Clean fuel top up in tank and never used the cold start device because I beleive there is too much fuel. Hopefully I will get an answer from Eurocarb tomorrow.

Could this be of help ?

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ogy44daeicsbvg7/Weber%20Trouble%20Shooting%20Guide.pdf?dl=0

 

Might not be for your carbs but in principle, there may be something.

Edited July 6, 20179 yr by knights_templar

Could this be of help ?

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ogy44daeicsbvg7/Weber%20Trouble%20Shooting%20Guide.pdf?dl=0

 

Might not be for your carbs but in principle, there may be something.

I am going to strip and inspect carbs this weekend and will use the guide first, thank you.

Edited July 6, 20179 yr by MarkBzero

Check carbs with Weber fault guide with no success. Decided to take them off to strip and order inspect, I cannot see anything obvious.

 

There's a small lip between manifold and head but cannot see how this would stop the car from starting. Already sold old 40s so cannot test again.

 

Accelerator pump working so cylinders must be getting fuel. Now out out my knowledge and skill set, going to send carbs back under warranty and look out for cheap carbs to test everything else ( maybe bike carbs).

 

One thing to note there was excessive carbon on back off butterflies only cylinders 3&4, could this be something?

yep bike carbs every time for much simpler than these weber things

No, never I want webers I have had twin carbs for years and love the noise, look and style I was only thinking cheap bikes carbs to prove everything else is working. I could then debate with Eurocarbs.

 

These carbs were expensive and purpose built for zetecs, they should work. I have not change edis unit yet the voltages are correct and I get spark but delivery could be wrong the limp home mode is set for 10 degrees btdc. If this is wrong then I would get fuel and spark but at the wrong point.....maybe!

Edited July 9, 20179 yr by MarkBzero

Have you tried adjusting the idle screw whist trying to start? If the butterflies are fully closed you won't get any air in, might be worth trying to start while giving light throttle?

 

Also balancing the carbs with feeler gauges to get the car running is a good starting point.

 

I wouldn't tell eurocarbs that you have stripped and inspected the carbs as it may affect your warranty.

 

Personally I think it's a set up issue rather than the carbs at fault, as it would be odd for 2 sets of twin carbs to both be faulty.

Have you tried adjusting the idle screw whist trying to start? If the butterflies are fully closed you won't get any air in, might be worth trying to start while giving light throttle?

 

Also balancing the carbs with feeler gauges to get the car running is a good starting point.

 

I wouldn't tell eurocarbs that you have stripped and inspected the carbs as it may affect your warranty.

 

Personally I think it's a set up issue rather than the carbs at fault, as it would be odd for 2 sets of twin carbs to both be faulty.

I agree very unusual that two would be faulty. Do you mean the idle mixture screws or throttle arm adjusting screw?

 

I have tried both as per Des Hamill how to build and power tune Weber and dellortos. I read the book cover to cover when in hospital.

The throttle adjusting screw. As this will crack the butterflies open slightly to give your idle rpm ( balanced with the idle mixture screws.)

 

The back sides of those butterfly valves do look very wet. Have you tried starting with the throttle part open/fully open?

Also you set the throttle rpm on the master carb, and then balance the linkage on the connected one. Don't mean to teach you to suck eggs but it may be a simple set up issue.

 

A few more pics of your set up would help

The throttle adjusting screw. As this will crack the butterflies open slightly to give your idle rpm ( balanced with the idle mixture screws.)

 

The back sides of those butterfly valves do look very wet. Have you tried starting with the throttle part open/fully open?

Yes tried different throttle positions, the old dells needed three full presses and then half throttle every time when cold.

 

The throttle was set up fully off then 1/2 a turn, I will try the feeler blade since they are not both off.

Also you set the throttle rpm on the master carb, and then balance the linkage on the connected one. Don't mean to teach you to suck eggs but it may be a simple set up issue.

 

A few more pics of your set up would help

Going to set up with feeler gauge then refit, I will upload more pictures. Set up has not changed much from the last set of 40s except with the addition of a pressure regulator.

 

I have a Facet inline filter (new), Facet posi-flow pump rated at 1.5-4psi near tank, Inline filter, Sytec pressure regulator, set at 2.5psi (Eurocarbs suggestion) then carbs. For spark I am using Ford Edis, Megajolt and VVT pro (disconnected MJ and VVT, car should run on EDIS limp home, checked with Trigger wheels), and new Ford genuine spark plugs. I will take more photos and video when i fit them again.

Edited July 9, 20179 yr by MarkBzero

So the throttle adjuster will open one set of butterflies, you then need to adjust the balance mechanism so that the other pair open as well, this will be on the link arm between both sets of carbs.

All done, battery on charge overnight and charging Jester battery pack as well. Fingers crossed for tomorrow.

Good news the car was firing and trying start a lot more today. I still cannot shrug a feeling that timing maybe delivered at the wrong time, however it is firing many ch more just failing to start. I also think the starter may not be turning as fast as suspected, I could be wrong.

 

More pictures of my set up, going to boost battery tomorrow and start swapping HT leads.